Yea, initially yhe change was for the 2-stage oil pumps. Mine does not have that. It increased the bypass from 16 to 22 psi.with the gm 5.3 in around the years of yours ,there was a filter change i believe , something to do with a change in bypass pressure ,
if you research ,there are oodles of posts on this same question and topic, but looks like you are on top of it
unless you have gotten your charging system tweaked, the AGM battery will never fully charge. It has nothing to do with short trips, voltage supplied just isn’t high enoughFor reference, the relatively new AGM battery had a low SoC. State of charge. I put the battery on the charger/conditioner every 2 months or so as a PM. When I did it last it took about 5 hours to get it fully charged. Usually gets full within 2 hours. That's an indication of too many short tripps.
Yep - gave the BiL my older XG10575’s for his Ford - then once they changed the XG10575 (my cut open was not appealing) - have moved on to other filters …Yea, initially yhe change was for the 2-stage oil pumps. Mine does not have that. It increased the bypass from 16 to 22 psi.
According to Frams website, 22 psi is now acceptable tor this engine.
Just wanted to clarify. I have a bench charger that I put my batteries on every few months. Normally takes maybe 2 hours to bring them to full soc.unless you have gotten your charging system tweaked, the AGM battery will never fully charge. It has nothing to do with short trips, voltage supplied just isn’t high enough
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking looking at how ugly that filter is, but it shouldn't have gotten plugged up in 1,000 miles.Known issue with these engines and the recent HEMI, when running higher efficiency filters. These engines load the filters with debris, resulting in a drop in oil pressure.
Amsoil has a bulletin about this issue.
A clogged filter will cause a drop in oil pressure downstream of the filter if the oil pump is bypassing, since flow will be reduced when there is more restriction. Some vehicles are designed with oil pumps that will start bypassing when the engine speed is not much higher than idle, even when the oil is warm. This seems to be the case with a lot of American engines that run high oil pressures at idle.It's like the 5.3 has a secret bypass valve somewhere upstream of the filter that is set lower than the filter bypass and it bleeds off the oil pressure when the filters start to clog. I know that sounds illogical but I can't think of another explanation.
Have you ruled out the pickup O-Ring being bad?Today, I took the Burb to run errands. Drove to nearby town ~17 hwy miles, dash temp showed 37°. When I got got in the city, first stop light, oil pressure was around 26ish again. Current oil is still amber and has maybe 150 miles on it.
(Edit) so the historical "normal" oil pressure I was used to seeing was short lived. Had at least 40 min of driving after oil change with alleged normal oil pressure. Now it is relatively low (27ish) with about 150 miles on oil.
Soooo, there goes all my preconceived notions.
I bought 2 oil filters this morning. AC Delco PF48 and Fram Endurance FE10575, for 2015 MY(which is slightly longer than the FE10060 spec'd for my MY.)
Fram states FE10575 18-24psi for bypass. 2015 MY
And FE10060 22psi for bypass. 2013 MY.
So I'm comfortable running the larger filter.
should I install one of these newly purchased filters without oil change to see if it makes a difference? In the interest of gathering data and troubleshooting.
If so which should I try first, if any?
Next steps??
- HPL EC?
- 6 quarts of HPL oil?
- change to euro M10w40 FS?
My plan.
I am ordering a new AC Delco sending unit and screen. Just to rule it out as an issue. Will also pull valve covers to have a look and take pics before changing oil, after the New Year.
I have not rulled it out. Just hoping to find a les expensive repair if one is available.Have you ruled out the pickup O-Ring being bad?
You may be chasing a problem that doesn't exist. What does GM spec for oil pressure at warm idle on your engine? A quick google search tells me 22 psi at 1,000 rpm. Not completely sure if this is the correct spec for your engine, but if it is, your oil pressure is fine. In fact, it's a bit high if your idle speed is lower than 1,000 rpm, and it was much too high at 37-38 psi before.(Edit) so the historical "normal" oil pressure I was used to seeing was short lived. Had at least 40 min of driving after oil change with alleged normal oil pressure. Now it is relatively low (27ish) with about 150 miles on oil.
I have not rulled it out. Just hoping to find a les expensive repair if one is available.
There are posts on a few forums that mention, if oil pressure is low at start up when cold, but returns to somewhat normal at operating temp, it is likely the pickup tube O-ring.
Not sure if this is entirely valid tho. I seem to have the reverse issue, where hot oil pressure is low.
But may have to go this route & weigh the cost of repair. There are posts that mention, their hot oil press has been 25ish for as long as they can remember, engine still going good for them.
I am just concerned that it was 10-12 psi higher, now it's not.
So if I do have the pickup tube replaced, seems to me that would also be the time to replace the oil pump, harmonic balancer, and associated seals. Sounds expensive as I wont be performing this kind of repai myself .
Yeah, without an autopsy, it is hard to say. But we have to keep in mind that not all filters flow the same way, and different medias can respond differently to debris loading.Yeah, that's what I'm thinking looking at how ugly that filter is, but it shouldn't have gotten plugged up in 1,000 miles.
And of course we've got a bit of a catch-22 here as if you are cleaning, you want to be catching that material, not letting it circulate.
The use of the EC to effectively reduce oil consumption leads me to think there are some considerable deposits in this engine. If he runs their oil, it should improve (reduce) the consumption further, but what that will liberate, in a relatively short period of time, is a huge wildcard, being far more aggressive than the EC. We've seen what has come out of what were "clean" engines (my wife's truck, @wwillson's Durango...etc) so this would be far, far worse.
Just stating, your justification for the battery charge was the short trips. That’s not the case of you haven’t modified the stock charging system voltage.Just wanted to clarify. I have a bench charger that I put my batteries on every few months. Normally takes maybe 2 hours to bring them to full soc.
Recently, it took several hours in this case.
When a car is started, it pulls a lot of amps. If the car doesn't run long enough to replenish the charge, there is a deficit. Little by little, the battery gets lower SoC.
I see your point. I didn't state it clearly.Just stating, your justification for the battery charge was the short trips. That’s not the case of you haven’t modified the stock charging system voltage.
But yes, a bench charge will save the battery