New to me 05 Ford Ranger 4x4 with 4.0 v6 80k miles what oil?
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Cologne_V6_engine#Timing_chain_problems
Looks like your 05 should be ok on the chains.
I'd run VRP 5w-30 for a few OCI's just to clean up any stuff and then go from there.
Looks like your 05 should be ok on the chains.
I'd run VRP 5w-30 for a few OCI's just to clean up any stuff and then go from there.
dnewton3
Staff member
I'd either run a few OCIs with Valvoline R&P, or get some HPL EC30 to top off OCIs with any decent group III syn.
As for the SOHC timing chains, the 2005 engines were indeed covered by the updates, but that does not make them immune to the issues. It does dissuade the problems, or at least push them farther out. Best you can do it keep clean oil in it and treat her nice.
As for the SOHC timing chains, the 2005 engines were indeed covered by the updates, but that does not make them immune to the issues. It does dissuade the problems, or at least push them farther out. Best you can do it keep clean oil in it and treat her nice.
Any synthetic 5w30 is good. Rotella T6 5w30 is good stuff. Another good option is any HM 5w30
I run SuperTech syn 5w30 in mine.
I use Amsoil Signature series 5W-30, which is said to be good for 25,000 miles, but I change it at 10,000. Knock on wood, my 2011 has 173,000 miles with no noise or problems with the timing-chain system.
Your truck has 80,000 miles and is 20 years old. You should change the two hydraulic tensioners for the timing-chain system now. This will minimize the chance of premature failure of the timing-chain guides inside the heads. I did this at about 105,000 miles, soon after I bought the truck. The Ranger forums recommend using only Motorcraft (Ford) tensioners and crush washers, which is what I did—in other words, not aftermarket versions. The crush washers are separate parts and you need them too.
These tensioners are accessible outside the two heads, one near the front of the engine on the driver's side by the throttle body, and the other near the rear of the engine on the passenger's side, accessible through the wheelwell. I primed mine first before installation. The driver's side tensioner is longer than the passenger's side version.
Your truck has 80,000 miles and is 20 years old. You should change the two hydraulic tensioners for the timing-chain system now. This will minimize the chance of premature failure of the timing-chain guides inside the heads. I did this at about 105,000 miles, soon after I bought the truck. The Ranger forums recommend using only Motorcraft (Ford) tensioners and crush washers, which is what I did—in other words, not aftermarket versions. The crush washers are separate parts and you need them too.
These tensioners are accessible outside the two heads, one near the front of the engine on the driver's side by the throttle body, and the other near the rear of the engine on the passenger's side, accessible through the wheelwell. I primed mine first before installation. The driver's side tensioner is longer than the passenger's side version.
If that's the one with the plastic coolant thermostat housing in the valley worry more about that suddenly breaking ,leaking all the coolant out and cooking the heads
Welcome to Ranger ownership.
INPO
1. Yes on replacing the plastic thermostat housing with an aluminum one. Check yours for temperature sensor/sender. They look the same but have differing plugs and do different things. Sensor, for the ECU, is 5 volts. Sender is for the temperature gauge and is 12 volts.
Some vehicles were said to have come with only the sensor. In these cases I suppose the temp gauge on the dashboard is signaled through the ECU. I have both sender and sensor. Blanks for the aluminum replacement are available if you need only one hole.
2. Rejoice in that your vehicle doesn't have PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System). Your replacement keys are normally priced. PATS keys need dealership programming and are expensive. NOTE: If you go to a hardware store/locksmith they may have inaccurate information. All you need are blank, regular caveman keys should the need arise. I read that the PATS company had a disagreement with Ford that year so PATS wasn't licensed that year. FYI: I've read it is a very good, as in unbeatable, anti-theft system.
3. Re those hydraulic tensioners: I've always read 100,000 mile lifespan, but if K-man has better info, 80 it is.
It might make sense to acquire these tensioners while you still can. And just to repeat, they don't match....two different part numbers. And yes to the crush washers. There are many stories about people resurrecting the 4.0l SOHC and finding missing crush washers and having to deal with old, dry sealant. Also, the warnings about cross threading these things are constant.
4. What I do, and what is said to be very smart is to employ the "Clear Flooded Engine" cranking method for your first start of the day or after your workday.
Insert ignition key and turn to ON...when the dash lights up.
Depress the accelerator all the way to the floor. This turns OFF spark and fuel delivery.
Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds to build oil pressure.
Release everything....then start as normal.
Starting my 4.0 dry results in a half-second chirp. Starting after oil priming eliminates every bit of noise.
This IS what you want to do. The prime lasts a long time.
5. Ford revised ALL its transfer cases to an LV ATF. I used Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc LV in the transfer case. I know I can't prove it but I swear the TC shifted more brightly and consistently immediately after changing the fluid.
NOTE: There may be a vibration dampener hung on the TC. It covers the drain hole. Many people say their Ranger didn't come with said dampener.
6. MerconV is the ATF your 5R55E uses. I installed a pan with a drain plug when I did my pan drop/filter change/refill.
It was $11 from Dorman. This pan seems to be top quality and has yet to develop any rust.
Valvoline MerconV in a 6-pack from Amazon was the best price.
7. The PCV valve is located in the rear face of the left (driver's side) valve cover against the firewall. It "quarter turns" into a plastic socket which is built into the valve cover. Go easy as the plastic part in the valve cover can break and finding a replacement left VC is difficult if not impossible.
7a. The PCV line to the intake manifold is a large, hard plastic "L" shaped pipe. They can perish, resulting in a large vacuum leak.
Frankly, just scoping its route will introduce your eye to the "congested zone" between the right VC and intake.
8. ...takes a G59 battery. You'll see how frequently G59 batteries aren't in stock. That's OK as Wally needed only a week to get fresh 59s in. Also, the 59s I did find while shopping were all 6 and more months old at other places. Mine came with a G58...just not as tall.
9. Have you cranked down your spare tire yet? Hint: Bring spray lube.
10. What I need to do is lube my column shifter rod as it's quite stiff. The trannie shifts fine.
What color did yours come in? What gears? Headliner sag yet? Doesn't it feel good to have a vehicle with a radio antenna again!
INPO
1. Yes on replacing the plastic thermostat housing with an aluminum one. Check yours for temperature sensor/sender. They look the same but have differing plugs and do different things. Sensor, for the ECU, is 5 volts. Sender is for the temperature gauge and is 12 volts.
Some vehicles were said to have come with only the sensor. In these cases I suppose the temp gauge on the dashboard is signaled through the ECU. I have both sender and sensor. Blanks for the aluminum replacement are available if you need only one hole.
2. Rejoice in that your vehicle doesn't have PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System). Your replacement keys are normally priced. PATS keys need dealership programming and are expensive. NOTE: If you go to a hardware store/locksmith they may have inaccurate information. All you need are blank, regular caveman keys should the need arise. I read that the PATS company had a disagreement with Ford that year so PATS wasn't licensed that year. FYI: I've read it is a very good, as in unbeatable, anti-theft system.
3. Re those hydraulic tensioners: I've always read 100,000 mile lifespan, but if K-man has better info, 80 it is.
It might make sense to acquire these tensioners while you still can. And just to repeat, they don't match....two different part numbers. And yes to the crush washers. There are many stories about people resurrecting the 4.0l SOHC and finding missing crush washers and having to deal with old, dry sealant. Also, the warnings about cross threading these things are constant.
4. What I do, and what is said to be very smart is to employ the "Clear Flooded Engine" cranking method for your first start of the day or after your workday.
Insert ignition key and turn to ON...when the dash lights up.
Depress the accelerator all the way to the floor. This turns OFF spark and fuel delivery.
Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds to build oil pressure.
Release everything....then start as normal.
Starting my 4.0 dry results in a half-second chirp. Starting after oil priming eliminates every bit of noise.
This IS what you want to do. The prime lasts a long time.
5. Ford revised ALL its transfer cases to an LV ATF. I used Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc LV in the transfer case. I know I can't prove it but I swear the TC shifted more brightly and consistently immediately after changing the fluid.
NOTE: There may be a vibration dampener hung on the TC. It covers the drain hole. Many people say their Ranger didn't come with said dampener.
6. MerconV is the ATF your 5R55E uses. I installed a pan with a drain plug when I did my pan drop/filter change/refill.
It was $11 from Dorman. This pan seems to be top quality and has yet to develop any rust.
Valvoline MerconV in a 6-pack from Amazon was the best price.
7. The PCV valve is located in the rear face of the left (driver's side) valve cover against the firewall. It "quarter turns" into a plastic socket which is built into the valve cover. Go easy as the plastic part in the valve cover can break and finding a replacement left VC is difficult if not impossible.
7a. The PCV line to the intake manifold is a large, hard plastic "L" shaped pipe. They can perish, resulting in a large vacuum leak.
Frankly, just scoping its route will introduce your eye to the "congested zone" between the right VC and intake.
8. ...takes a G59 battery. You'll see how frequently G59 batteries aren't in stock. That's OK as Wally needed only a week to get fresh 59s in. Also, the 59s I did find while shopping were all 6 and more months old at other places. Mine came with a G58...just not as tall.
9. Have you cranked down your spare tire yet? Hint: Bring spray lube.
10. What I need to do is lube my column shifter rod as it's quite stiff. The trannie shifts fine.
What color did yours come in? What gears? Headliner sag yet? Doesn't it feel good to have a vehicle with a radio antenna again!
One of the Ranger forums recommends 70,000–mile changes for the tensioners on Rangers his vintage (2005). Newer ones can go 100,000.
The stiff shifter is found on Rangers run in areas that use lots of salt on the roads. There are actually two sleeves in the steering column, one rotating on the other when you use the shifter, and the bushings separating the two fail and seize from the salt. The failure makes shifting very hard. The fix involves removal of the steering column and replacing and lubing the bushings, so it's not for the faint of heart.
In other parts of North America without all the salt use this isn't a real problem.
The best oil I've found to use in my 05 3.0l is M1 Euro 0w-40. Original owner with 110k miles and used all makes and grades of oil.
Valvoline EPHM 5w20 or 30
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