Is there a "best" oil for timing parts longevity in Ford's 2nd Gen Coyote?

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Occasional lurker/first time poster here.

I have a 2015 Ford F150 with the 2nd Gen 5.0L Coyote V8. I bought it about a year ago with 92,500 miles on the clock. Currently sitting at 101,300. I've been active on the F-150 forum for a while now and have heard various things about timing component issues, engine noise, and oil. The 5.0 doesn't have as many cam phaser and timing chain issues as the 3.5 Ecoboost, but it can have problems, usually with the VCT solenoids or the phasers themselves. I'm interested in getting this thing to last as long as possible without having to dig into the front end.

I notice a slight rattle/clack noise when the engine is warming up and it's idling at about 1,000 rpms, or when I'm feathering the pedal between 1,000 and 1,500 rpms. Especially when I'm driving slowly at about 1,500 rpms and then let off the pedal. It's not very loud, but is audible inside the cab if the radio and HVAC fan are off. It only occurs when the engine is warming up. Upon initial cold start, it takes about 30 seconds to a minute of idling before I hear the noise, and it goes away once the engine is fully warmed up. My best guess is the noise is coming from the phasers, but I suppose it could be the chains. I've had a couple people tell me this noise is "normal" for this engine and is nothing to be concerned about. But in my mind, noise=wear, and although it might take a while, I'm guessing something is going to wear out eventually.

I tow a travel trailer a good bit, so the engine sees a lot of time pulling moderately hard between 2,250 and 4,000 rpms.

The truck has had 5,000 mile oil changes since it was new, as evidenced by dealership service records. I'm currently running Castrol Edge 5W-20. Prior to that I ran a couple of changes with Valvoline's extended drain full syn product (also 5W-20). I don't know what oil was in the truck when I got it, but knowing that it was serviced at the dealer, I might guess that it was Motorcraft blend 5W-20, which is what the manual specifies. I haven't noticed any difference in the noise across those oils. Interestingly, I ran premium gas during one towing trip and noticed that the rattle was a bit louder and more persistent (i.e., took longer in the warm up cycle to go away). It went back to its usual level when I went back to 87 octane gas.

A lot of folks on the F-150 forum run xW-30 or xW-40 oils in this engine because they believe that the 5W-20 spec was instituted just to meet CAFE standards, and that the heavier weight oils will protect better. However, I heard one (apparently knowledgeable) guy say that decel rattle is caused by the oil not being able to drain out of the phasers fast enough when the ECM commands them to a retarded position. If that's true, it seems like heavier oil would exacerbate the problem.

I also heard one fellow say that he runs either Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Quaker State full synthetic because those are the "best" oils for the phasers. This was stated as if it were a self-evident fact, with no rationale why these are "best."

So I'm hoping there are some oil-savvy Coyote drivers on this forum who might be able to clear some of this up for me. I'm looking for some evidence and a logical rationale. Thanks in advance.
 
No oil is going to solve mechanical issues. That said, the oil you have been using is fine, and you can use any oil you want that the manual states. Good luck.
 
I had an 05 F-150 with 225,000 miles on it when I sold it. The previous owner traveled lots of highway miles and changed the oil at the dealership and they use the dealer supplied oil 0W20. I had zero problems with that 5.4 engine. I now have the 5.0 in my 2014 Ford and change it every 5,000 miles. I foresee no problems using the Kirkland 0W20 synthetic or any synthetic 0W20. I would not go to a heavier oil on that vehicle. I believe keeping the oil clean and regular oil changes are more important than anything. There are lots of these engines still going with very high mileage.
 
2015 Mustang.
At around 40000 miles i switched to Valvoline 5w30 I don't have the infamous typewriter tick or any other noise for that matter and for what its worth my engine is mechanically quieter on 5w30 than it was on 5w20 .
Currently at 70000 miles.
 
Not specifically applying this to you but something to be cognizant of. I had an 04 5.4 and have had a 15 5.0 (bought new in 15) for 8 years + now. The 5.4 was known for the tic and the noise on forums was deafening. It caused so many to think something was wrong when it wasn't. I never had cam phaser issues but the previous owner was a 3k OCI with PYB and I was a 5k max OCI guy. Never had an issue with mine. Bottom end of that engine was solid; top end could have issues but these engines, overall responded well to consistent maintenance.

Roundabout way but I'm stating these engines are on the loud side. 5.4 Fuel injectors were VERY loud. Lots of people read cam phaser on forums and figured that tic was it when it was fuel injectors. Not to say there weren't many issues with chains and cam phasers on the 5.4. My 15 5.0 is certainly quieter but it is no queen of quiet. The 15 5.0 and subsequent years do not have a high incidence of cam phasers or timing chain issues. Remember, Ford sells about 750k F150's per year and many of them are 5.0's.

IME keep a reasonable and consistent OCI and don't sweat the chains until you see a code or the noise is clearly not normal. You'll know if something if wrong.

Edit to add: I ran Mobil 1 5-20 and 0-20 for a few years but moved to Mobil 1 5-30 7-8k OCI with Fram Ultra IIRS about 5 years ago and remain happy with that.
 
You opened a can of worms. I had an 05 5.4L, ran 5w30 and Fl-820s only for 130k, no phaser rattle no chain issues ran great. 5k oil changes, I did plugs on it my self and had to put a transmission in it at 100k. Regular maintenance, coolant flushes, trans fluid changes, transfer case, diff fluid, normal stuff. I worked that truck like a rented mule routinely exceeding its design specifications on towing capacity. That truck owed me nothing.

I traded that ruck in on a brand new 2015 F150 King Ranch 3.5Ecoboost. Mobil 1 0w-40 Fl-500s, 5k oil changes 92k no issues. Regular good maintenance, coolant flush at 50k, trans flushes, transfer case, diff fluid normal stuff. So far I have to say it's the best vehicle I've ever owned.

As far as the 5.0L, for me it would be 5w30, minimum, and a motorcraft filter. I think half of the phaser issues are related to the vtc actuator screens getting clogged or partially blocked with sludge or grit causing low/inconsistent oil pressure. But that's just my .02.
 
OP - welcome to the site!

Best oil?
All of them.
Or, none of them.

Consider these inputs to help you decide an output:
- What's your planned OCI?
- Going to do UOAs?
- Price threshold?
- Environmental exposure?
- etc ...

Generally the Coy motors wear fairly well, so in that regard most any decent lube will suffice. The issues you describe your concerns about, well, no oil can alleviate a true mechanical problem. No can any oil stop fuel dilution, obviously.

Regarding the noises you describe, I'm wondering if the engine series you have uses factory forged pistons? (I've forgot my Coy motor details from generation to generation). Forged aluminum pistons can often get a slight "piston slap" during warm up; this is not uncommon for any engine which has an aluminum block and forged pistons. The different materials "grow' at different rates and so when the engine is warming up, the pistons will slap ever so lightly in the bores. It often sounds very much like a light ticking noise. I had a 2001 4.7L Tundra that was horrible in this regard. Generally piston slap is harmless; just irritating to hear. So, if the Gen2 Coys use forged pistons, could this be what you're hearing? The symptoms you describe sound very similar to what piston-slap exhibits during warm up. Once warmed up, the noise goes away even if the engine is started repeatedly after warmed up.
 
This will be an apples to oranges comparison but some of it might apply. My son's 2020 Ford Explorer bought new and @72K miles developed the cam phaser rattle. The engine is the 3.0 Ecoboost. Local Ford dealer had done plenty of 3.5 engine phaser replacements but had never seen the 3.0 with this problem. A bunch of Ford technical people came to town just to evaluate it. They did the complete engine out overhaul on warranty.

Engine oil was changed always ~5K at the Valvoline lube shop with the correct 5W-30 (I believe). The take away from this singular anecdote is Ford (may) have cam phaser problems across their engine options.
 
Euro spec oils have stringent timing chain protection requirements. Just about any posche a40 and/or bmw ll-01 oil with an SP rating is what I'd use. Walmart has many euro oils in stock. I'm using quaker state euro 5w-40 which has those 3 in my 6.2 gm.
 
I maintain like an owner that'll have that truck from factory birth to old age death.....
The best Walmart oil for your timing chain parts is Mobil-1 EP Gen 3 5w30. Since your oil pan has large volume, 5k OCIs.
If it only holds like five quarts, then 3k OCIs.
 
OP - welcome to the site!

Best oil?
All of them.
Or, none of them.

Consider these inputs to help you decide an output:
- What's your planned OCI?
- Going to do UOAs?
- Price threshold?
- Environmental exposure?
- etc ...

Generally the Coy motors wear fairly well, so in that regard most any decent lube will suffice. The issues you describe your concerns about, well, no oil can alleviate a true mechanical problem. No can any oil stop fuel dilution, obviously.

Regarding the noises you describe, I'm wondering if the engine series you have uses factory forged pistons? (I've forgot my Coy motor details from generation to generation). Forged aluminum pistons can often get a slight "piston slap" during warm up; this is not uncommon for any engine which has an aluminum block and forged pistons. The different materials "grow' at different rates and so when the engine is warming up, the pistons will slap ever so lightly in the bores. It often sounds very much like a light ticking noise. I had a 2001 4.7L Tundra that was horrible in this regard. Generally piston slap is harmless; just irritating to hear. So, if the Gen2 Coys use forged pistons, could this be what you're hearing? The symptoms you describe sound very similar to what piston-slap exhibits during warm up. Once warmed up, the noise goes away even if the engine is started repeatedly after warmed up.
Thanks much. To answer your questions:

I'm planning to stick with a 5,000 mile OCI.

Not planning to do UOA. Have never done UOA's before, but seems unnecessary with a short OCI, especially given my penchant for using oils that claim to be formulated for long OCIs.

I'd like to avoid expensive boutique oils if possible (e.g., Amsoil). I'm sure they're great oils, but not sure they're great enough to justify the price premium. Other than that, I don't have a problem with buying the best that Walmart has to offer.

By environmental exposure, do you mean ambient temps? The truck is garage kept, and is rarely cold-started in temps below freezing. We do get occasional sub-zero temps, but I don't leave it out overnight in those temps (or any temps, really). We have a mild climate, so for daily driving it is rarely driven in temps over 90 F. But it may sometimes see more heat when I'm on a trip with the travel trailer. For example, this past summer I pulled the trailer all day on the interstate in a 98 F heat wave.

Regarding the piston slap hypothesis, I can see why that might cross your mind, but I doubt that is what is making the noise. I have some experience with piston slap in my 2010 Toyota Camry (2.5 L 4 cyl). That noise occurs on cold start and gradually goes away as the engine warms up. It is loudest when the engine is under load, which makes sense, as that is when the pistons will be slapping most vigorously. With my F-150, the noise is loudest when the engine is under no load at all, i.e., when I let off the gas. It will make the noise more quietly when I'm feathering the pedal, and the noise goes away entirely if I put my foot in it a little. It also goes away any time the RPMs are above about 1750 or below 1000.

I'm not terribly worried about the noise, as decel rattle seems to be a "thing" with these engines, and mine runs fine and is not throwing any timing codes. But, like I said, any time I hear a noise, I have to think that wear is occurring. Whether or not that wear causes a problem before the truck dies of something else, who knows. But if there is something relatively easy that I can do to minimize the chance of something wearing out, I'd like to know that.
 
I maintain like an owner that'll have that truck from factory birth to old age death.....
The best Walmart oil for your timing chain parts is Mobil-1 EP Gen 3 5w30. Since your oil pan has large volume, 5k OCIs.
If it only holds like five quarts, then 3k OCIs.

Valvoline Extended Protection 5w30. 5,000 mile OCI.

Thanks for your suggestions, guys. Care to elaborate on why you would pick these oils?
 
“…Forged aluminum pistons can often get a slight "piston slap" during warm up; this is not uncommon for any engine which has an aluminum block and forged pistons. The different materials "grow' at different rates and so when the engine is warming up, the pistons will slap ever so lightly in the bores. It often sounds very much like a light ticking noise. I had a 2001 4.7L Tundra that was horrible in this regard. Generally piston slap is harmless; just irritating to hear. So, if the Gen2 Coys use forged pistons, could this be what you're hearing? The symptoms you describe sound very similar to what piston-slap exhibits during warm up. Once warmed up, the noise goes away even if the engine is started repeatedly after warmed up.

^^^^ this ! ^^^^^

Piston slap is exactly what I was going to say. It’s a high probability among the class of noises that go away when the motor is at full operating temperature.

I have piston slap in my ‘02 Jaguar XKR, as do many owners of the 4.0 - 5.0 liter Jag V-8’s. Just letting the car warm up more before putting a load on the engine will keep it at bay, and keep it from driving you crazy.

Z
 
Thanks for your suggestions, guys. Care to elaborate on why you would pick these oils?

The API SP standard requires engine oils to pass two new tests specifically targeting the challenges modern engines face. These tests ensure that SP certified lubricants can prevent the occurrence of LSPI and minimize timing chain elongation.Sep 4, 2020


+

 
I maintain like an owner that'll have that truck from factory birth to old age death.....
The best Walmart oil for your timing chain parts is Mobil-1 EP Gen 3 5w30. Since your oil pan has large volume, 5k OCIs.
If it only holds like five quarts, then 3k OCIs.
Why would you need 3k oci's with M1 EP, because it only has a 5qt. capacity? Seems like overkill for sure. Any SP 5w30 would do with what you're suggesting.
 
if i would purchase engine oil from wall mart ,would pick Valvoline 5w-30 EP,its a really good oil with lots of moly,boron in a group 3 base,,, second would be Havoline pro-ds 5w-30 with similar add pack with about 10% group 4 in base oil (if they got it),both meet/exceed the current certifications. both are affordable,they also have fram ultra filters as a great choice
 
My 2nd gen coyote mustang has had 5w20 up until 85k miles. No mechanical noises or anything but I did switch to 5w30 at that point.

My car seems to run just a hair quieter on Penzoil platinum but that might just be in my head


A lot of people sees by Ceratec to quiet down the engine but I have no experience.

All that said, phasers and vct wear out and any quality oil will work fine in these motors.
 
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