Recently I have been considering running a XW-30 Euro oil in my Mustang GT with the 5.0, mainly because of the higher HTHS and beefier additive pack. The car is not tracked, but it is daily driven and driven hard at times reaching redline almost daily, sometimes several times in one day. It’s hard to resist when the Coyote spins to 7,500 RPM and the exhaust notes are beautiful paired with the 6sp manual. The thought of a higher HTHS and a beefier additive pack is appealing, but sometimes I wonder if it is necessary over the API SP ILSAC XW-30 oils I have been running. Oil is normally changed every 5K miles, but I’d consider 6-7k if I switched to a Euro oil as they are formulated to withstand a longer OCI from what I understand. I, like many others here, tend to overthink things (oil and maintenance) and choice of oil will not be the reason this car is no longer drivable someday. But when you are into your car and an enthusiast, you just want the best for it. So does my application call for a more stout Euro XW-30, or should I stick with the API ILSAC 30 grade oils? These oils cost the same at Walmart and the auto parts stores, so in my mind, why not run the more stout Euro oil?
Euro 30 in a Coyote engine
- Thread starter MrCoyote
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I have the same question for my 2021 F150 coyote, but sticking with the Ford spec until engine warranty is up... Is there an SP Euro 5w30 with the Ford M2C-961-A1 spec?
Not from my understanding. I believe Ford’s WSS-M2C961-A1 specification only aligns with API SP ILSAC XW-30’s. I’m yet to see it on a 30 grade Euro oil.
Quaker State Full Synthetic Euro 5W40 is a SP oil. It’s not a Ford spec oil. I’m currently using it my my F-150 2.7.
That’s also my observation. I’d much rather run a Euro oil but being under warranty I don’t want to get off the reservation just yet. I don’t have a Coyote but the spec and my thoughts are the same.
For now I’m running the highest HTHS readily available oil bearing the Ford spec (Valvoline full syn is 3.2) which is likely more than sufficient, but overthinking is what BITOGer’s do.
Highest I have found is Motul Eco-lite 5w30 at HTHS of 3.3 which is starting to approach Euro territory. It is twice the cost of Valvoline but I may try it anyway for fun. Amsoil is also at 3.3 but again at double the cost.
The answer is that a higher HTHS is not necessary, until it is. Clearly, some components can, at times, get the oil locally hot enough to make the HTHS spec worth knowing. The trick is knowing whether your engine needs it, the way you use it. The good news is that the Coyote has a very well understood set of issues.
As always, the fact that an oil can withstand a longer OCI, does not mean that circulating an ever increasing level of particulates and contaminates is a good idea. There is a reason that timing chains are failing left and right now. Long OCI's coupled with thousands of miles with an oil film thickness incapable of protecting against particulate induced wear.
You should know that the Coyote is not immune to chain and tensioner wear.
What year?
Same, I’m also running Valvoline EP 5W-30 as I’ve found Valvoline is the only manufacture who still post their HTHS figure (3.2) compared to Pennzoil/Quaker State, Mobil 1, and Castrol. Not knocking the other brands as I’ve ran all four, but it’s nice knowing the HTHS. I have also been pondering running a “boutique” oil such as Redline, Royal Purple HPS, etc. as they formulate some magnificent oils, but I don’t think I can justify the price when I know I can get equivalent performance out of oils half the price that tout a “Euro” spec. But who knows, maybe one days such as you, I’ll run one of these boutique oils just to try it lol.
It is a 2021. And you make a good point about the timing chains and tensioners.
I ran that in my 2015 2.7 F150 . Now I run the Sp rated M1 0W-40 euro as well as in a 2006 toyota tacoma 4 cyl, a 2010 Ford Focus and the Wifes 2018 F350 with the 6.2 gas engine she uses to tow her and the daughters horses around etc.
If you are looking API SP and 5W30:
Castrol Edge 5W30 A3 (Wal Mart-5qt=$26).
Mobil1 ESP 5W30 (AZ or AAP-5qt=$37+filter).
My choice would be Mobil1.
Castrol Edge 5W30 A3 (Wal Mart-5qt=$26).
Mobil1 ESP 5W30 (AZ or AAP-5qt=$37+filter).
My choice would be Mobil1.
Neither of those carry the Ford spec despite being better oils than what Ford requires. Tempting though.
Any Euro oil which has ACEA C3 or A3/B4 on the bottle will have a HTHS of no less than 3.5cP.
In addition the majority of the euro spec oils are moving towards API SP. API SP has a TGDI chain wear test.
My Vette gets fed nothing but 5w-40 Euro Spec synthetic, and still purrs like a kitten with just over 100k miles and MANY AutoX events.
I was just mentioning Euro specs and API SP.
Personally, I would run Castrol Edge 0W30.
I’m not too worried with warranty concerns, I’ve already modded half the car as it is. I just want better protection for my engine even though it is probably overkill. I may try Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 or Castrol Euro 5W-30 as they’re both SP rated now for timing chain wear.
Although it may not apply to your situation, it is good to note that simply stepping up in viscosity is almost always a step up in HTHS and a step up in chain and chain guide protection. In many cases we can choose a high end oil that does it all, or simply step up in viscosity. This is why the 5.0 Trak Pak used 5W-50 at one time.
To further confuse things, AN based oils don't flow well in very cold situations. So, while they are excellent lubricants, I'm not at all sure that choosing a 5W-30 AN based oil is somehow better than, say, a 10W-40 synthetic PAO based oil. Which will flow at -55F and has an HTHS of 4.5 or so, a wider range of operational temperatures.
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All this talk about Ford spec oil, which is a joke.
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Care to elaborate?
Any oil that has BMW specifications will have timing chain test.
My feelings exactly, particulate matter that escapes the oil filter can still cause wear and/or damage over time. So while a long OCI saves time and money, and looking at a UOA to see how TAN and TBN etc. are doing, those wear metals are still circulating through the engine. I'd rather spend a few $$ a year more, do an extra oil change or two and not worry about that particulate matter which will only come out of the engine with an oil change.
