I recall 20+ years ago Redline race oils had lower levels of additives, in part they said, to reduce pre ignition. They were also clear, the oil wasn’t meant for street use as it had insufficient additives for extended use. How that translates to today, I have no clue.
New Mobil 1 C40 GT 0W-40
- Thread starter Indyxc
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edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Street oils on track are always better than racing oils on the street.
Somehow there’s a rush to “racing oils” in street cars by some folks. I’m sure they are well meaning, just uninformed.
Z
What is the downside of using a streetable racing oil like Motul 300v if you do short oil change intervals on the street, except cost and enviormental impact, say vs. Motul X-Cess Gen 2? I understand if you use a straight racing oil with a 500mile OCI, but some "racing" oils look like lean street oils on VOAs, low detergents, etc.
What’s the advantage?
We've done some street testing with 300V...it'll easily go 4,000 miles in our Audi street cars.....There is No Advantage to using in the street cars as it is just Overkill in that application and a waste of $$$. There's a reason Motul makes the 8100 or VW 502/504 specific oils. Or just run Mobil 1 0w40 or M1 5w30 ESP Euro and be done with it. You aren't even skimming the surface on these oils capabilities in a street car application.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
It is not desirable for that purpose. Street oils have to do many things, racing oil just one. Street oils might not often get to operating temperature, face very cold starts, short trips, stop-and-go traffic, dropping kids to school, picking up kids, etc., etc. Racing oils just have to, well, race. In doing so, street oils have to make sure engines make xxx,xxx thousands of miles, do not leave excessive deposits, CBU, varnish etc. You know they will operate well bcs. approvals. And they will also operate well on track.
Racing oils have just one purpose. Motul 300V is not approved for anything, even API, which is kind of the lowest standard. Motul said: you need racing oil? Here is racing oil. Simple as that. Detergency is low etc. Additives are optimized for racing, not daily grind.
That being said, I ran 300V in BMW. As it is my daily, and I track it, I wanted to know how it does after 5,000mls. Unfortunately, the oil company I was doing that experiment with lost my sample, so I could not compare it to their street oil. This summer, as I run 300V only in summer during the track season, I will again send 300V after doing some track, and mostly street.
https://shopmotul.com/motul-300v-when-theres-no-room-for-compromise/
Motul seems to claim it is fine at short OCI but overkill for most. Personally, if your GT3 RS is a weekend / track car I would run it if it makes you feel better than a standard A40 or C40 oil.
The Red Bull drift guys that have the 1040 HP (S58) BMW M4 drift cars were using 300V 10W-60 in those 2 cars for 2 years it seems. They are sponsored by Motul and had BMW tear down the engines a few months ago and they looked good despite the abuse. They don't say it was the 10W-60 but some other videos and Instagram content on these cars shows them pouring a can of 10W-60 into the engine. So much for 0W-20 or 0W-30
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Motul seems to claim it is fine at short OCI but overkill for most. Personally, if your GT3 RS is a weekend / track car I would run it if it makes you feel better than a standard A40 or C40 oil.
The Red Bull drift guys that have the 1040 HP (S58) BMW M4 drift cars were using 300V 10W-60 in those 2 cars for 2 years it seems. They are sponsored by Motul and had BMW tear down the engines a few months ago and they looked good despite the abuse. They don't say it was the 10W-60 but some other videos and Instagram content on these cars shows them pouring a can of 10W-60 into the engine. So much for 0W-20 or 0W-30
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Typically they're looking for the higher levels of ZDDP and will change the oil every 5k miles anyways. This is especially true for owners who've tuned their cars.
I think Motul said you could run their race oil on the street for something like 5k miles.
Basically it boils down to the "Cheap insurance" argument.
my trust and / or confidence in corporate truthfulness is not at an all time high.
The additive package in so-called racing oils may be touted as being good for 5,000 miles. Thats their position. “Good” is a word that can be stretched.
My position is to use a
quality synthetic oil designed for daily drivers, and then change it when the additive package is 50% used up. Which has turned out to be well before its advertised OCI.
Everyone has a different comfort zone.
The additive package in so-called racing oils may be touted as being good for 5,000 miles. Thats their position. “Good” is a word that can be stretched.
My position is to use a
quality synthetic oil designed for daily drivers, and then change it when the additive package is 50% used up. Which has turned out to be well before its advertised OCI.
Everyone has a different comfort zone.
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someone needs to make a good street racing oil!
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
HPL does. HPL 5W40 BAS. MOTUL 300V is ok too.
Definately HPL BAS
Thanks for the feedback. What made you choose 300V over HPL in your application?
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
I can get Motul cheap. No brainer.
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Here is there analysis from the new c40 gt Engine oil. I think it will be near the same Like esp x3 0W40.
https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/14834-föa-mobil-1-c40-gt-0w40/
https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/14834-föa-mobil-1-c40-gt-0w40/
Thank you! Still using ester in that oil to i see!
Edit, buster's quicker . . . .
Thanks. It's green (and Zirconium) just like any VW 508 00/Porsche C20 . . .
Thanks. It's green (and Zirconium) just like any VW 508 00/Porsche C20 . . .
