Mixing 5 quarts Mobil 1 EP + 0.7 quart M1 AFE 0W-20

[edyvw]

At the minimum. If it were my car I'd use a dedicated track oil, but maybe that's just me. I'd call up Red Line or HPL, tell them exactly what I was doing and take their recommendation. I certainly would not be mixing my own.

I would stay away from dedicated track oils if tracking occasionally. Street oil is IMO better choice if he is tracking few times a year.

 

[MacManus99]

I would like to second using a MB229.5 and/or A40 oil. Try not to concentrate so much on the viscosity, and more on the approvals an oil carries. It is far more telling of how the oil will behave than some numbers that very loosely indicate a viscosity range.

 

[NorthernDriver]

Heat is not an issue as altitude is. Does Type R has dedicated radiator type oil cooler or is it fluid heat exchanger (coolant/oil)?
Doesn’t matter skill level. Actually less skill drivers tend to over heat cars faster than skilled. If you think you want to do this somewhat regularly, consider radiator type oil cooler!

Good to know thank you. The factory oil cooler is a fluid heat exchanger. There is also a dedicated transmission cooler (MTF/air)

There are aftermarket oil coolers (oil/air) you can plumb in that are activated via a secondary thermostat (~90C). I'm very new to the HPDE/lapping community, so I plan to drive the car as is (with upgraded brake fluid) and gauge my skill level. If the car starts to overheat/oil temps too high (270f ?) I will start looking into cooling mods. Trying to take it one step at a time.

Based on my usage and and the Blackstone report at the end of this season, I'll adjust my OCI. I'm not too worried since it's a stock Honda. They generally don't explode immediately

 

[edyvw]

Good to know thank you. The factory oil cooler is a fluid heat exchanger. There is also a dedicated transmission cooler (MTF/air)

There are aftermarket oil coolers (oil/air) you can plumb in that are activated via a secondary thermostat (~90C). I'm very new to the HPDE/lapping community, so I plan to drive the car as is (with upgraded brake fluid) and gauge my skill level. If the car starts to overheat/oil temps too high (270f ?) I will start looking into cooling mods. Trying to take it one step at a time.

Based on my usage and and the Blackstone report at the end of this season, I'll adjust my OCI. I'm not too worried since it's a stock Honda. They generally don't explode immediately

They will start pulling timing around 260-270. So keep an eye on that.
Stock pads won’t cut it. Get mildly upgraded street/track pads and go from there: EBC Yellow Stuff, HAWK HP+ etc.
Check Honda forums how is manual transmission fluid performing on track. It can get too thin and you might miss gear and that might be super expensive.
I would say of must do things are upgraded pads and fluid. Tires? That is the most expensive part. I run dedicated set, usually max performance that are decent and on sale. Don’t be surprised if you kill tires in 1000-1500km.

 

[edyvw]

Another thing, especially since you have fluid type heat exch: run only 10% coolant concentrate. More coolant=less efficient is heat exchange with environment. So, syphon out coolant and add distilled water until you reach maybe -5c freezing point. Before next winter just add concentrate.

 

[odie]

Should be a good blend .

 

[NorthernDriver]

Thank you for all the replies. M1 0W20 EP is on sale this week so I will pick up 2x 5qt containers.

 

[NorthernDriver]

They will start pulling timing around 260-270. So keep an eye on that.
Stock pads won’t cut it. Get mildly upgraded street/track pads and go from there: EBC Yellow Stuff, HAWK HP+ etc.
Check Honda forums how is manual transmission fluid performing on track. It can get too thin and you might miss gear and that might be super expensive.
I would say of must do things are upgraded pads and fluid. Tires? That is the most expensive part. I run dedicated set, usually max performance that are decent and on sale. Don’t be surprised if you kill tires in 1000-1500km.

Thanks for the details. FYI Yellowstuff was reformulated last year, its not recommended for the track anymore by EBC. The OEM brake pads on the Type R are sort of equivalent to old yellowstuff/HP +. They can take light track use. I've got ExtremeContact Sport 02 tires! The honda MTF is generally fine, especially since the car has a transmission fluid cooler from the factory. Still I will take this all in mind, including the coolant replacement! Thank you

 

[edyvw]

Thanks for the details. FYI Yellowstuff was reformulated last year, its not recommended for the track anymore by EBC. The OEM brake pads on the Type R are sort of equivalent to old yellowstuff/HP +. They can take light track use. I've got ExtremeContact Sport 02 tires! The honda MTF is generally fine, especially since the car has a transmission fluid cooler from the factory. Still I will take this all in mind, including the coolant replacement! Thank you

Ah, I think EBC moved track to Blue Stuff. I think @TiGeo used them.

 

[TiGeo]

Ah, I think EBC moved track to Blue Stuff. I think @TiGeo used them.

Correct. Yellows maybe for a lighter car driven more carefully on street tires. Blues are their entry level track pads now.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Considering I’ll be tracking the car and it’s a bit harder on the oil, I figured I’d switch to an oil with a longer service life, like Mobil 1 EP.

Beef up your oil to something like Pennzoil Euro L 5W-30, it you want mid-SAPS, or go for Mobil 1 FS 5W-30, if you want full-SAPS. Both have low NOACK around 5%~6%.

The additive package that's used in the Pennzoil Euro L 5W-30 was designed to pass Porsche A40 and VW 502 testing, believe it or not. It's some impressive oil for how cheap it is.

 

[odie]

Should be a good blend .

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Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-20 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil | The Petroleum Quality Institute of America

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