Mazda3 2.5 Turbo

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You can get a 1.4T Golf for a deal. 2020 leftovers are $20k without trying, it looks like. A similar priced Mazda3 would be 2.0 NA.
With the Golf, if you need more power, get a tune; but it already has great low-end torque.

They come with plenty of standard equipment and safety items. Feels like they're built to a higher class/quality vs the competition. Easily beat EPA mpg ratings. (my GSW is rated 25/36 and my lifetime average is 38.x)
I've owned my 2016 VW Sportwagen (5spd manual) for three months short of 5 years, and 68.5k miles. Never been to the dealer. No repairs needed. DIY oil and filter changes (cabin, engine too) and that's been it. The Golf platform holds much more cargo than a 3 or Civic hatch.
Yes the boxy styling isn't pushing design, but it works, and it won't look dated in 3 years.

I always read of VW horror stories and only bought one due to the crazy dieselgate deals at the time. (mine was $18.5k + TTL) Happy owner thus far. Got my mom into a 2015 2 door Golf that was ultra low mileage used. Commutes daily 100 miles. No real issues. Friends bought a similar wagon as us. All those are 1.8T models. No issues. Another friend just got a 2019 Golf, with the great warranty (2018 and 2019 have 6 yr 72k bumper to bumper - the '19s have 1.4T).
Keep in mind your Golf is still very low mileage. I would HOPE nothing of import broke due to inherent failure in only <70K miles.
 
I hope you're right. I have a '17 Mazda6. We shall see how it lasts. 'Real disappointed re the propensity of the paint to chip (dark blue - almost black - metallic paint).
That's Japanese paint for you. Beautiful but fragile. My 370Z and Infiniti were the same way. I just wrapped mine and haven't had any issues. Pony up the $1500 and don't worry about it anymore was my move.
 
Dunno about actual gauge, but I do know that on the Gen 1 CX5, they really scrimped on panel damping. The hood fluttered like a bird (pulled over multiple times to make sure it was latched...always was, lol!), the doors were tinny and flimsy feeling. My 2019 on the other hand, the doors close like a bank vault and the hood is steady well into the triple digits. It wasn't the gauge I don't believe, but the lack of support/damping/etc.
Our CX-9 feels solid as a rock inside and out. When I close a door it makes a solid "thump." When I closed either front door or the rear hatch on our Sienna, it sounded like one of those old metal gas cans where the sides flexed in and out. This thing seems solid as a tank to me...
 
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I hope you're right. I have a '17 Mazda6. We shall see how it lasts. 'Real disappointed re the propensity of the paint to chip (dark blue - almost black - metallic paint).
I'm not seeing much of the paint chipping on ours. We have the red that looks like a bright candy apple red in the sun (I don't know the official name of the color), and the vehicle is about to hit 45K miles. There are a few chips here and there, which are unavoidable with a daily driver, but nothing that I would call unacceptable. If you live in the rust belt of the Midwest (or any place that salts the roads) I'd recommend taking it through a car wash that has an undercarriage spray on a regular basis until the salt has been rain-washed off of the roads. I'm going to do that with this Mazda to see if that helps with the rust...I didn't do it with my last one and it ended up a rust bucket...
 
Our CX-9 feels solid as a rock inside and out. When I close a door it makes a solid "thump." When I closed either front door or the rear hatch on our Sienna, it sounded like one of those old metal gas cans where the sides flexed in and out. This thing seems solid as a tank to me...


The CX9 avoided those problems as it was the last of the Mazda models to go SkyActiv.

The earlier CX5 models did lack soundproofing and the hood issue was a common one. 2017 was the year they changed everything as they saw the complaints and focused on sound deadening and stiffer panels and chassis.

In fact, the hood on my 2017 CX5 is quite heavy.
 
The CX9 avoided those problems as it was the last of the Mazda models to go SkyActiv.

The earlier CX5 models did lack soundproofing and the hood issue was a common one. 2017 was the year they changed everything as they saw the complaints and focused on sound deadening and stiffer panels and chassis.

In fact, the hood on my 2017 CX5 is quite heavy.
It's only heavy because they were too cheap to put hydraulic struts in it, which I greatly lament.
 
In fact, the hood on my 2017 CX5 is quite heavy.
...and to me this is an example of how the Golf is/was built to a higher class - standard hood struts vs a prop rod. Minor things like this. (point also made above while I was typing this!)

The Golf in a base model just feels more put together and with well-laid out and simple controls. The Civic and '3 are trying hard to have new-age techy looking dashes. The Golf just lumbers on with a simple, proven layout. Now they offer "digital" dash/cockpit on the higher end models, but I'm all for simple and therefore cheap! A base model can be 40% less than the fully loaded one, and it comes with the same engine and chassis. Best value by far (applicable across manufacturers usually)

I put many, many miles on a '93 Mazda MX6 and assumed I'd get into a '3 or CX5 someday. I was kinda surprised I went a different route. Sportwagen holds as much as a CX5! I miss the ground clearance sometimes, which is leading us to an Outback next, most likely...
I am very appreciative of the turbo when climbing mountain passes, fully loaded with camping gear - that might make the future Outback we get need to be an XT model...
 
It's only heavy because they were too cheap to put hydraulic struts in it, which I greatly lament.


I agree. I have thought a few times as I lift it and hold it with one hand so I can get the strut bar in place, what if it slipped? There are no decent places to hold it. Hydraulic struts would be a great addition.
 
That's Japanese paint for you. Beautiful but fragile. My 370Z and Infiniti were the same way. I just wrapped mine and haven't had any issues. Pony up the $1500 and don't worry about it anymore was my move.
I have concluded the same; it merits a wrap on the hood at least... I am not so worried about the area immediately in front of the hood - because it's all plastic - and to be truthful, it is the rust potential that I am most worried about. Re the front fenders, seems to me that it's pretty fiddly to have those wrapped, what-with all of the edges. Hood is easy for a professional to do well.
 
It's only heavy because they were too cheap to put hydraulic struts in it, which I greatly lament.
I wish they'd go back to using the springs on the hood like they did on cars from 60s...those springs always outlasted everything else on the car...
 
...and to me this is an example of how the Golf is/was built to a higher class - standard hood struts vs a prop rod. Minor things like this. (point also made above while I was typing this!)

The Golf in a base model just feels more put together and with well-laid out and simple controls. The Civic and '3 are trying hard to have new-age techy looking dashes. The Golf just lumbers on with a simple, proven layout. Now they offer "digital" dash/cockpit on the higher end models, but I'm all for simple and therefore cheap! A base model can be 40% less than the fully loaded one, and it comes with the same engine and chassis. Best value by far (applicable across manufacturers usually)

I put many, many miles on a '93 Mazda MX6 and assumed I'd get into a '3 or CX5 someday. I was kinda surprised I went a different route. Sportwagen holds as much as a CX5! I miss the ground clearance sometimes, which is leading us to an Outback next, most likely...
I am very appreciative of the turbo when climbing mountain passes, fully loaded with camping gear - that might make the future Outback we get need to be an XT model...
VW seems to have a track record of this, but why do they always seem to be lagging behind in terms of reliability? Is that just a German automaker thing?
 
I have concluded the same; it merits a wrap on the hood at least... I am not so worried about the area immediately in front of the hood - because it's all plastic - and to be truthful, it is the rust potential that I am most worried about. Re the front fenders, seems to me that it's pretty fiddly to have those wrapped, what-with all of the edges. Hood is easy for a professional to do well.
The paint on my CX-9 seems thicker and/or tougher than what was on my '15 or '16 Sienna. To make matters worse, my '15 Sienna was white, but the material underneath the the paint on front and rear bumper covers was black, so whenever the paint was chipped through all of the paint and primer, guess what showed? Yep, it looked like the entire front end of the vehicle had blackheads...you'd think they could at least mold the front bumper cover out of a materiel that's the that's the same color as the paint, but I suppose some bean counter figured out that would cost the company an extra $.05 per part...
 
I have concluded the same; it merits a wrap on the hood at least... I am not so worried about the area immediately in front of the hood - because it's all plastic - and to be truthful, it is the rust potential that I am most worried about. Re the front fenders, seems to me that it's pretty fiddly to have those wrapped, what-with all of the edges. Hood is easy for a professional to do well.
My whole front end is wrapped flawlessly. Headlights, front bumper, hood, and leading 1/3 of fenders. A pillars, front 1/4 of roof.
 
...and to me this is an example of how the Golf is/was built to a higher class - standard hood struts vs a prop rod. Minor things like this. (point also made above while I was typing this!)

The Golf in a base model just feels more put together and with well-laid out and simple controls. The Civic and '3 are trying hard to have new-age techy looking dashes. The Golf just lumbers on with a simple, proven layout. Now they offer "digital" dash/cockpit on the higher end models, but I'm all for simple and therefore cheap! A base model can be 40% less than the fully loaded one, and it comes with the same engine and chassis. Best value by far (applicable across manufacturers usually)

I put many, many miles on a '93 Mazda MX6 and assumed I'd get into a '3 or CX5 someday. I was kinda surprised I went a different route. Sportwagen holds as much as a CX5! I miss the ground clearance sometimes, which is leading us to an Outback next, most likely...
I am very appreciative of the turbo when climbing mountain passes, fully loaded with camping gear - that might make the future Outback we get need to be an XT model...
Ground clearance is the only reason I drive an SUV.
 
VW seems to have a track record of this, but why do they always seem to be lagging behind in terms of reliability? Is that just a German automaker thing?
I for sure would have bought a VW instead of my Mazda6 if I had had confidence in the long-term electrical system viability of a VW. It would have been a Jetta GLI or a GTI, in a flash. Oh, I forgot: those two VW products have a propensity to carbon-up intake valves (for some unknown reason they did not add dual-injection to their north american bound cars... but appear to have done so in the Euro marketplace, at least for some of the variants of the Golf / Jetta). The Mazda line of Skyactiv engines, despite having single (direct) injection, do not have a history of carboning up their intake tract to the point where CEL's fire-off, cars flunk emissions tests.

I REALLY want to like VW, because in general I like how they drive and feel (and I REALLY like how they are rustproofed)... but unfortunately they continue to give me pause.

I know, I know... YMMV...
 
My whole front end is wrapped flawlessly. Headlights, front bumper, hood, and leading 1/3 of fenders. A pillars, front 1/4 of roof.
I have read, though, that Mazda paint is SO thin that some protective film professional installers will measure paint thickness to confirm, but NOT wrap the car (if paint is thin)... 'cuz if removal were attempted it'd peel off the paint. At least that's their position... and I'm sure a professional will not turn away business unless for a legitimate reason.

Others???
 
I have read, though, that Mazda paint is SO thin that some protective film professional installers will measure paint thickness to confirm, but NOT wrap the car (if paint is thin)... 'cuz if removal were attempted it'd peel off the paint. At least that's their position... and I'm sure a professional will not turn away business unless for a legitimate reason.

Others???
My detailer said nothing of the sort and wrapped it fine. I have not noted anything like that about the paint, just that it's relatively soft compared to American or German.
 
I have read, though, that Mazda paint is SO thin that some protective film professional installers will measure paint thickness to confirm, but NOT wrap the car (if paint is thin)... 'cuz if removal were attempted it'd peel off the paint. At least that's their position... and I'm sure a professional will not turn away business unless for a legitimate reason.

Others???
I haven't seen anything like this about Mazda's paint. I think Honda owns the title of having the thinnest paint...
 
I'm trying to find out if you can take the gears all the way to redline in manual mode with the new Turbo 3. Some are saying you can't and it shifts for you as you approach redline.
 
I'm trying to find out if you can take the gears all the way to redline in manual mode with the new Turbo 3. Some are saying you can't and it shifts for you as you approach redline.
Even if you can't...why does it matter aside from academic argument? The gearbox, diff, and the engine are absolutely flawlessly matched in my experience on this drivetrain.
 
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