Mazda3 2.5 Turbo

GMFan said:
I found too many rust holes in the frame. See this thread: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/time-to-dump-or-repair.329390/

rust.jpg

drive.google.com drive.google.com

Mazda Rust - Google Drive

drive.google.com

shock tower - Google Drive

drive.google.com
Click to expand...
Thx. Went thru link. You did well.

Crazy that JUST the subframes corroded... not body sheet metal. Frames - and weak-minded ones especially - I think are oft-underlooked components to pay attention to. This really appears to me to be one area where Mazda cheaps-out.
 
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lots of options today, turbos can be fun but add complexity + in the long run over 100 thou DI will cause issues!! bang for the buck its hard to beat a kia-hyundai brand. girlfriends 18 preowned optima 2.4 NA engine replaced her oil drinkin 60 thou malibu + has been great, unloved FWD sedans are the best value + 4 SNOW tyres will beat most AWD's with all season tyres if needed. new kia-hyundai warranty is best. drive a bunch + crunch the numbers, but remember bells + whistles cost more + fail more simple is better, so NO yet proven CVT's!!!
 
benjy said:
lots of options today, turbos can be fun but add complexity + in the long run over 100 thou DI will cause issues!! bang for the buck its hard to beat a kia-hyundai brand. girlfriends 18 preowned optima 2.4 NA engine replaced her oil drinkin 60 thou malibu + has been great, unloved FWD sedans are the best value + 4 SNOW tyres will beat most AWD's with all season tyres if needed. new kia-hyundai warranty is best. drive a bunch + crunch the numbers, but remember bells + whistles cost more + fail more simple is better, so NO yet proven CVT's!!!
Click to expand...
If you take only short trips DI can cause issues, but long ones, and DI is just a non issue on a well designed engine.
 
SkyActive X will probably not come to the USA as Mazda now understands with cheap gasoline, few would be willing to pay extra for that technology.

I will buy a turbo MAZDA3 with manual transmission.

I have zero interest in the auto trans with turbo.
 
A manual option would be nice, but the Mazda AT is nice and with paddle shifters it will be fun to drive IMO.
 
I have a 2017 CX-9 with the 2.5 turbo. If the way this vehicle drives is any indication, the new 3 with this engine should be a hoot to drive. As far as the rust issue, I suspect that a trip through a car wash that sprays the undercarriage at least once a month during the winter months would greatly extend the vehicle life, as far as rust is concerned...
 
grampi said:
I have a 2017 CX-9 with the 2.5 turbo. If the way this vehicle drives is any indication, the new 3 with this engine should be a hoot to drive. As far as the rust issue, I suspect that a trip through a car wash that sprays the undercarriage at least once a month during the winter months would greatly extend the vehicle life, as far as rust is concerned...
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I never had any issues with my 2015. 106k miles, 4 years ownership. Underside was fine. Roads were salted seasonally.
 
Ws6 said:
I never had any issues with my 2015. 106k miles, 4 years ownership. Underside was fine. Roads were salted seasonally.
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My wife and I had an '03 MPV which we bought new that rusted out terribly after 13 years of ownership, but I never took that vehicle through any car washes to wash off the salt during the winters...so I'd say the rusting was partly my fault, and partly Mazda's for their poor rust proofing process...I have read that they have greatly improved this process in recent years so this shouldn't be a problem anymore...
 
Looks pretty interesting. Kinda slots in between the GTI and Golf R, at least spec/performance and price-wise. The cargo space is a bit less usable due to the more limited opening.

The R has a good bit more headroom to add power, but if you're keeping the car stock it seems like a reasonable competitor.
 
Jack Watts said:
Looks pretty interesting. Kinda slots in between the GTI and Golf R, at least spec/performance and price-wise. The cargo space is a bit less usable due to the more limited opening.

The R has a good bit more headroom to add power, but if you're keeping the car stock it seems like a reasonable competitor.
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Loaded out, it's around $40K. I'm not feeling the value here AT ALL with only 250hp and no manual, and no sub 2500# weight. If it had topped out at maybe 32K, heck yeah! But for $40K, I'm going with something else.
 
FYI, the Corolla has a few different engines in the new generation. The higher HP engine strangely enough is also more fuel efficient.
The CVT in the higher HP Corolla uses a lunch gear for better acceleration. There is a stick in the SE model for the 3 people who will want one.
 
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