Mazda3 2.5 Turbo

Joined
Dec 2, 2005
Messages
1,469
Location
Kennett Square, PA
Been thinking about a smaller car. I like the Corolla but it is so underpowered. But, am also leery of turbo since I never had one and worry about reliability. Just read about the new Mazda3 turbo coming out for 2021. Never had a Mazda, so jumping to a Mazda turbo will be a major leap for me. For those familiar with Mazda’s, what do you think about the new 3 turbo? Thanks.
 
My 2007 with the 2.3 isn't really comparable to a new one, but I can tell you I really enjoy that little car. Mine has a 5spd and I just use it around town/ to leave at the air port when I'm TDY. Its way more fun than it has any right to be especially for the $3k it cost me a couple years ago.
 
Nice but (a bit) fragile cars. Reliable. Will go the distance with some extra effort.

Mazda's i) have pretty darned thin sheet metal; ii) easily get rock chips; iii) have thin carpets that tend to wear; and iv) are not great against rust (poor rep. re quality of the two-sided galvanized sheet metal). If you live where there is NOT a wet, sloppy-snow winter - they can go the distance... but beware hail damage and keep away from door-denting other motorists. Oil undersprays, even twice per winter, might be a good idea.

Caveat: YMMV ☺.
 
Been thinking about a smaller car. I like the Corolla but it is so underpowered. But, am also leery of turbo since I never had one and worry about reliability. Just read about the new Mazda3 turbo coming out for 2021. Never had a Mazda, so jumping to a Mazda turbo will be a major leap for me. For those familiar with Mazda’s, what do you think about the new 3 turbo? Thanks.
I dont like the log out back. Otherwise should be a good vehicle.
 
Nice but (a bit) fragile cars. Reliable. Will go the distance with some extra effort.

Mazda's i) have pretty darned thin sheet metal; ii) easily get rock chips; iii) have thin carpets that tend to wear; and iv) are not great against rust (poor rep. re quality of the two-sided galvanized sheet metal). If you live where there is NOT a wet, sloppy-snow winter - they can go the distance... but beware hail damage and keep away from door-denting other motorists. Oil undersprays, even twice per winter, might be a good idea.

Caveat: YMMV ☺.

I have owned only Toyota and Lexus vehicles since 1977 with the single exception of my wife’s Acura MDX. Bought all of them brand new. I see you also have Toyota’s so I assume your comments about the Mazda3 are in comparison to your Toyota’s, right? I also like the look of the VW Jetta and Passat. How do you like your VW? Thanks.
 
Our 2012 Mazda 5 now has 120K on it and is quiet and powerful and has NO turbo. It has a tendency to spin the front tires if you try to start up too quickly. Wife and I travel in it with another couple and we fill it to the top. It is considered my wife's cae since it is smaller than my Ram 1500 quad cab. I hope it never wears out. Uses no oil between changes and gets 29 highway fully loaded with 4 big adult and 2 week load of stuff. the turbo must make it very peppy. Wife named it "Zippy" when she first drove it.
 
Nice but (a bit) fragile cars. Reliable. Will go the distance with some extra effort.

Mazda's i) have pretty darned thin sheet metal; ii) easily get rock chips; iii) have thin carpets that tend to wear; and iv) are not great against rust (poor rep. re quality of the two-sided galvanized sheet metal). If you live where there is NOT a wet, sloppy-snow winter - they can go the distance... but beware hail damage and keep away from door-denting other motorists. Oil undersprays, even twice per winter, might be a good idea.

Caveat: YMMV ☺.
I've owned many brands. The 2017/2016+ mazda sheet metal isnt too thin, but it is on the thinner side vs some. The paint is middle of the road for toughness, except for their soul red, which continues to have issues, albeit less. Their vehicles are very different now than pre-16/17.
 
Likely a really nice car.

Mazda are rust buckets in the Northeast even some recent models in last 5-7 years showing signs of Mazda Achilles heel, lack engineering or priority to resist rust. Have they fixed the problems, who knows.

 
Likely a really nice car.

Mazda are rust buckets in the Northeast even some recent models in last 5-7 years showing signs of Mazda Achilles heel, lack engineering or priority to resist rust. Have they fixed the problems, who knows.


Thanks! The rust is a showstopper for me.
 
The problems of rust were pre-SkyActiv. Everything changed after that. Improvements were made.

The Northeast seems to destroy any vehicle not protected. The best solution would be to move.

My 21+ yo Avalon has lived in the Northeast for its entire life and has zero visible body rust. Starting to rust a little underneath but nothing major or structural.
 
artbuc, you asked about vw. i’m happy with my passat: great cruiser, cavernous interior, decent gas mileage, reliable. for peace of mind i would only look at a cpo vw with its longer warranty. i test drove several passats and jettas with their various engines: 2.slow, 1.8tsi, 1.4tsi. the 2.slow runs out of steam, 1.4tsi runs out of steam at highway passing speeds but both are fine around town. the passat isn’t a compact car. my cpo 2013 passat s is the old 2.5 five cylinder, which i chose purposely over a laggy (to me) 2014 1.8tsi. the 2.5 is a great and simple engine, i never understood the professional automotive newsmedia hate for it.
 
I have owned only Toyota and Lexus vehicles since 1977 with the single exception of my wife’s Acura MDX. Bought all of them brand new. I see you also have Toyota’s so I assume your comments about the Mazda3 are in comparison to your Toyota’s, right? I also like the look of the VW Jetta and Passat. How do you like your VW? Thanks.
I probably am not the guy to ask... on either account. My VW is a '79 bus... which I love to bits despite it's many flaws. But it's REALLY of a much past era... so not valid in the context of today. I love all three Toyota's I have in my extended fold... but they're all old... '99 Corolla, 2005 Corolla... fairly durable... and '99 Camry which is an outlier... as it is a stripped CE version.... L4 engine, 5 speed manual, zero power options. In some sense I like that the best. Aisin 5 speed trans is a gem, 2.2 four also is very good. If I could buy that car again new I would, no question. I do like earlier era Corolla's too. Toyota, too, is not CURRENTLY of the EXCELLENT build quality that my 99 Camry is. Those were Toyota's glory years, in my mind.

I HAD to have a manual transmission in an intermediate Japanese sedan. Only choice in 2017 was the Accord and the Mazda6. Mazda6 had much more serviceable layout... as the intake is at the front (Accord at the back). I had expected to 'hafta do the walnut shell treatment on the intake valves once or twice overlife... and at least in that regard the Mazda was a no brainer. I also prefered the drive quality of the Mazda... though they were / are close. Both were / are good cars though I suspect the Accord would have been easier to keep in good shape... i.e. they're more durable body-wise.
 
I have a 2011 Mazda6 that had its front sub frame replaced under recall due to rust. The rear sub frame had same corrosion issues and was rotted out at rear spring towers and had holes but Mazda didn’t help me. Avoid if you live in salt belt or near the coast. Had to get a junkyard sub frame to replace on my own dime.

Non-stainless steel exhaust pieces have rusted apart and required welding to fix exhaust leaks.

Numerous paint chips (even in areas not subject to road debris or rocks) have lost paint and are rusting. Sheet metal has dented far easier than other vehicles I’ve owned. Paint quality is poor.

Otherwise they’re good cars...

I wouldn’t buy a Mazda again due to their rust issues. They claimed they had it all fixed when I bought my 2011. Fool me once....

I test drove and looked at a 2020 Mazda6 - the rear sub frame had same cheap poorly welded sheet metal steel that is the same on my 2011. Rust begins at the weld joints. No thanks...
 
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I have a 2011 Mazda6 that had its front sub frame replaced under recall due to rust. The rear sub frame had same corrosion issues and was rotted out at rear spring towers and had holes but Mazda didn’t help me. Avoid if you live in salt belt or near the coast. Had to get a junkyard sub frame to replace on my own dime.

Non-stainless steel exhaust pieces have rusted apart and required welding to fix exhaust leaks.

Numerous paint chips (even in areas not subject to road debris or rocks) have lost paint and are rusting. Sheet metal has dented far easier than other vehicles I’ve owned. Paint quality is poor.

Otherwise they’re good cars...

I wouldn’t buy a Mazda again due to their rust issues. They claimed they had it all fixed when I bought my 2011. Fool me once....

I test drove and looked at a 2020 Mazda6 - the rear sub frame had same cheap poorly welded sheet metal steel that is the same on my 2011. Rust begins at the weld joints. No thanks...
FWIW, my 2015 didn't have any rust issues. I kept it until 2019, drove it on salted roads every winter, and traded it in at 106K miles. Noone on the Mazda forums has had any rust issues of which they have posted about on their newer model Mazdas.
 
I have a 2011 Mazda6 that had its front sub frame replaced under recall due to rust. The rear sub frame had same corrosion issues and was rotted out at rear spring towers and had holes but Mazda didn’t help me. Avoid if you live in salt belt or near the coast. Had to get a junkyard sub frame to replace on my own dime.

Non-stainless steel exhaust pieces have rusted apart and required welding to fix exhaust leaks.

Numerous paint chips (even in areas not subject to road debris or rocks) have lost paint and are rusting. Sheet metal has dented far easier than other vehicles I’ve owned. Paint quality is poor.

Otherwise they’re good cars...

I wouldn’t buy a Mazda again due to their rust issues. They claimed they had it all fixed when I bought my 2011. Fool me once....

I test drove and looked at a 2020 Mazda6 - the rear sub frame had same cheap poorly welded sheet metal steel that is the same on my 2011. Rust begins at the weld joints. No thanks...
GMFan... I thought you applied POR15 onto the rear subframe. Me, I don't think that would have been either easy.. or that effective, but... Did you have a change of heart?
 
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