Mann ML1010 1,505 miles with MMO

[Texan4Life]

From the car in my sig. Decided to do my first ever run with MMO. I used 2qts MMO and 4qts ST HM 10w-40. 1,505 miles on oil and filter.

Edit:
Forgot the pic of inside the can. Squeaky clean. I attribute this to the last 30k miles of mainly HDEO. When I first got the car I would find the little crispy bits in the bottom and in the pleats. But that cleared up awhile ago. So to me the HDEO did a good cleaning job as the MMO didn't find much else (if any) to knock lose.

 

[JHZR2]

2 qts MMO seems like a lot. Nothing much to see from your pics, was there indication on close inspection that there was any grit or junk captured?

 

[Texan4Life]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
2 qts MMO seems like a lot. Nothing much to see from your pics, was there indication on close inspection that there was any grit or junk captured?


Good question! just updated my post about that. No I didn't find any grit or anything else.

Yeah I figured more HAD to be better

 

[hate2work]

So you ran a 33% run of MMO for 1500 miles and it didn't do any cleaning because you had run HDEO for the last 30k?

Well, I guess you know your engine's clean now

 

[ltslimjim]

Wow, thanks for the update. I think you did a great cleaning with the HDEO, and MMO is so cheap it's worth it to run instead of spending a ton of time pulling the valve cover/dropping your pan etc after all that cleaning. I think it's safe to say your engine is fairly clean. I'm curious to see what a UOA looks like on your vehicle, do you have any posted?

PS: Can any passenger car run with a mixture of HDEO for any interval to clean up or is that a no-no? Let the can of worms begin!

 

[expat]

Personally, I would not want to see particles.
I would hope the cleaner I used would dissolve the crud in situ, not break it away to float through the system.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: expat
Personally, I would not want to see particles.
I would hope the cleaner I used would dissolve the crud in situ, not break it away to float through the system.


I guess it depends on the type of particles you are talking about. You can have the grainy carbon deposits, to actual dirt or sand, to globs of sludge etc.

The key is if they can be suspended in the oil and removed from the engine at the time of the oil change.

If all could be removed and eliminated, you still have engine wear occurring. The wear metals will always be traveling in the oil to some extent.

The best anyone can do is maintenance, to limit the formation/entry of the particles you don't want in there accelerating wear or worse.

 

[Texan4Life]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
I'm curious to see what a UOA looks like on your vehicle, do you have any posted?


I had one done awhile back and I plan on doing another on my current fill of pennzoil HDEO.

It wasn't anything spectacular, but not to shabby IMO. High total engine mileage, plus I had to do a distributor repair while traveling. So I ran the engine for quite awhile before getting back home to a timing light.

It will be interesting to see the next one if it improves or not

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...493#Post2072493

Quote:
Personally, I would not want to see particles.
I would hope the cleaner I used would dissolve the crud in situ, not break it away to float through the system.


The kind I saw in my early cut open filters was the carbon crispy kind. I think it was from the valve area under the valve cover. So I imagine is gets lose enough to flow back into the sump. So the only parts exposed to the "dirty oil" would be the oil pump... i think. lol

 

[expat]

Originally Posted By: expat
Personally, I would not want to see particles.
I would hope the cleaner I used would dissolve the crud in situ, not break it away to float through the system.


I base this 'Hope' on what I have seen in the bottom of my engine parts cleaner (I use a Stoddard solvent). Under the strainer, there accumulates a semi-liquid sludge, from the dirty engine parts that have been cleaned. There are NO 'crispies' just a kind of fine sediment.
Also, as I wash a part, I will see the crud dissolve, until the bare metal starts to show leaving 'Islands' of accumulated sludge, that get progressively smaller as the cleaning progresses.
Yes, some chunks will break off, but in time they too seem to break down in the solvent.
I would hope the same would happen in my filter if I used an engine cleaner.