Bosch Workshop cartridge filter from a white block Volvo engine

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This is a Bosch Workshop filter, 72066 for a white block Volvo engine. It was in a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5 turbo for 13 months and 8,500 miles, with Mobil 1 10w-30 HM and 10 ounces of Lubegard Biotech additive.

Looks like the filter did it's job, but not with ease. I definitely did NOT intend to leave this filter in this car for this many miles. I don't even know why I HAD this filter as it's not something I would normally use. I believe my intention was to pull it after 3k miles and put in an OE Mahle for the remainder of the intended 7,500mi OCI. I was expecting possibly just this scenario. My step-son drives car, we don't live together, and his usage profile changed dramatically 1/2 way through the period. I forgot he was putting a lot of miles daily on the car suddenly, and that I was supposed to check and change the filter mid way. Oops.

The filter did it's job and captured A LOT of carbon. I attribute this to the Lubegard additive - I intended it to clean up some past neglect I strongly suspected. The car had only moved 6,500 miles in the prior four years (2016 to 2020). I emptied out the dealer Castrol 5w-30 Full Syn and Mahle filter from 2016 last 10/2020, when we bought the car. The old oil and filter looked fine at that time, but I suspected the engine had some oil neglect in the past. All of this carbon I attribute to the Lubegard cleaning up the engine.

The pleats were very stiff and brittle. Several broke where I merely pushed gently with a finger to open a pleat to examine the carbon - they simply snapped apart. However, no failure during use and the car's plastic filter housing with the built in by-pass valve was quite clean outside the filter.

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I refilled the car with 6 qts of Mobil 1 10w30HM and 12 ounces of Lubegard Biotech, and an STP extended life filter. I'll check the filter in 3 or 4k miles to see if the Lubegard is still lifting Carbon out. The car was down about 1.5 qts after 8.5k miles, so very acceptable oil usage. When the engine gets cleaned up, I will switch to a Fram Ultra, use only 6ozs. of Biotech per OC, and then leave the Ultra in multiple OCIs.
 
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JHZR2

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13 months and 8500 mikes is nothing.

Ive run cartridge filters in my Mercedes, bmw, and Saab card for 24 months without issue.

I see a poorly fitting filter and/or too much torque on it.

Im not sure if be confident with a fram ultra cartridge. Love the fram ultra line, have run many… but I’ve had one fram ultra cartridge break open on me in my BMW 135i not in extended service. Apparently it’s common…
 

Oro_O

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I see a poorly fitting filter and/or too much torque on it.

Poorly fitting is probably the issue.

The filter rides on two spindles, one on the block and the other on the cap around the pressure by-pass valve. If it didn't fit those correctly, then it could get torqued - but you can't tighten the cap down too far to torque it; there's tolerance on both ends. If the filter wasn't dimensioned quite right, it would end up like that when installed.

Im not sure if be confident with a fram ultra cartridge. Love the fram ultra line, have run many… but I’ve had one fram ultra cartridge break open on me in my BMW 135i not in extended service. Apparently it’s common…

Noted. I've had good success with them for several years in two vehicles and as long as 21k installed miles. However, my "n" equals two vehicles and maybe five filters. I'll keep that in mind.

Stick to Mann, Mahle, and Hengst

I've taken several OE mahle's out of four different of these engines. All have looked very good, and my 00 I am now tweaking/tuning is running on one now. Maybe in fact I'll just go with them on the Volvos from now on. You can add one to any order from iPd, FCP Euro, or RM European for like $4, so it's not hard to get them or expensive.

I have used Manns on Audis back to the mid-90s so I'd definitely trust them, too.

I THOUGHT I had put a Mahle in this car so was definitely surprised. I had noted the oc date, volume, additive, mileage, in my service spreadsheet for the car. But I did not note the filter make/model like I always do.

Thank both of you for your comments; they will make me think and likely alter my plans.
 
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Oro_O

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Oh, the "similar threads" feature just highlighted the last OC on this car (when we bought it). Apparently I had posted that and forgot about it. Here's pics of the Mahle I took out that had been in two weeks shy of 4 years. The dealer fill was Castrol 5w-30 FS and it had been in 6,900 miles to be exact:

 
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That looks a lot like the 2012-vintage Purolator L16311 cartridges I used, including the form of printing on the edge of one end cap. However, mine caught scarcely anything large enough to see easily, and was in good condition after roughly the same mileages.
 

Oro_O

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That looks a lot like the 2012-vintage Purolator L16311 cartridges I used, including the form of printing on the edge of one end cap. However, mine caught scarcely anything large enough to see easily, and was in good condition after roughly the same mileages.

Here's a clear pic of the printing; I didn't include it above.

IMG_1690.jpg

Sheesh.

It caught a lot of crap. Think it's so wavy because it got pretty full.

It did do it's job. I think @JHZR2 is correct that it's twisted because it didn't fit the spindles correctly (too tight on one of them) and got torqued on installation. It's a cartridge filter so it has to spin slightly on two spindles as the housing cap is screwed back on.
 
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It did do it's job. I think @JHZR2 is correct that it's twisted because it didn't fit the spindles correctly (too tight on one of them) and got torqued on installation. It's a cartridge filter so it has to spin slightly on two spindles as the housing cap is screwed back on.
Certainly could be the case. I think sometimes they're a bit too long as well
 

Oro_O

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Certainly could be the case. I think sometimes they're a bit too long as well

You could be right. The filter is still in the trash in the garage. I'll measure it tomorrow and note it, then compare when I get some Mahles. Which actually, maybe I need to get some. I bet the OCI on this is going to come up soon.

He's driving about 70 miles a day on it, so we'll probably need to do another OC in March. He graduated HS last June, then went to work for a marine electric company in Ballard, in Seattle (his bio dad is a senior marine electrician for a big player there). He lives in Snoqualmie. So it's about 70 miles a day round trip and it's 7 days a week right now. They are wiring new factory fishing ships for the Alaskan fleet, as well as servicing and re-fitting older boats. 24/7 work right now.
 
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On the positive side, looks like the oil/Lubeguard removed a good amount of the old neglect you suspected. Please cut and post the next filter. Interested to see how much, if any carbon is caught up in the media.
 
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2004 Volvo S60 2.5 turbo, please check the accordion PCV type that runs from top of PCV to top of engine. If you pull on it and comes apart, is broken and will need to be replace. The new part is vulcanized rubber like the early cars and no need to removed the upper intake. I done 2 so far!
 
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I had that issue with some filters on the 2017 jeep 3.2L IIRC the fram ultra is one of the ones I disliked.. every so slightly too long.
It came out wavy like yours.
Thought for a min I got the wrong filter as there were 2 extremely similar cartridges for mopar that dont interchange.

I'm wondering why its so black is it the additive itself also causing the blackening or just all the crud its loosening up?
 

Oro_O

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On the positive side, looks like the oil/Lubeguard removed a good amount of the old neglect you suspected. Please cut and post the next filter. Interested to see how much, if any carbon is caught up in the media.

Definitely a positive in my book, it's doing just what I expected and what it's advertised to do. I'll post in a few months when I take the current filter out.

2004 Volvo S60 2.5 turbo, please check the accordion PCV type that runs from top of PCV to top of engine. If you pull on it and comes apart, is broken and will need to be replace. The new part is vulcanized rubber like the early cars and no need to removed the upper intake. I done 2 so far!

Yep, I know about how fragile the pcv system is in these and one of the reasons I use tough oil in them and monitor it. This car has no signs of any PCV/"Flame trap" issues yet and I am hoping to avoid any maintenance on that overly-complicated system.
I'm wondering why its so black is it the additive itself also causing the blackening or just all the crud its loosening up?

It's the additive loosening it up. The base oil of the Lubegard products is pure ester, which is highly polar (unlike most oil base stocks, conventional or synthetic). It will bind closely to metal to give residual lubrication after draining, but also creep under gunk and loosen it.
 
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Please just check it Ford screw up the material type and likes to break just below the intake manifold. If the hose has those rings on the top, you got a bad hose!
 

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Oro_O

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Certainly could be the case. I think sometimes they're a bit too long as well

I had some micrometers out today for another purpose, and recalled this. I pulled the old filter out of the trash and measured it. It was, across different points of the circle, within .2mm of the spec I found (79mm). So I don't think length had an issue, but rather the dimensions of the holes on either end to fit the engine spindle and the cap spindle.
 
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