M1 0w-20 - GC 0w-30

[Meat]

Hey folks, nice site

I was just wondering if you could tell me the difference between the two oils and what advantages each possess.

Which one would or could run year round?

I'm currently running M1 0w-20 in a Mazda6 v6. I do run the car pretty hard and most of the driving is local. Average mileage per year is about 18,000 and I would like to change the oil 2 or 3 times a year.

Thanx in advance

[ September 14, 2003, 11:18 AM: Message edited by: Meat ]

 

[buster]

IMO, the better choice for year round is the GC. The only problem is will you be able to find it consistanly. Are you planning on sampling your 0w-20? It's a well made 20wt oil that has shown excellent results. If it works for you based on use oil analysis, I'd stick with that.

 

[JohnBrowning]

I agree with buster that UOA is really needed to tell us anything relavent about the oil and engine combo! Drop a sample and we can go from there.

I can tell you right now you will get conflicting answeres depending on UOA. I think that people should use the old SAE/API viscosity temp charts while most on this board recomend O wt oils for everything. It is my professional opion that a solid 30wt. synthetic oil is the best starting point. From their you can go one wt. higher or lower with confidence looking for wear reduction trends. Then you can go higher or lower again if trends were positive.

 

[Patman]

If you drive your car hard you definitely don't want the 0w20 in there. This oil will work well for normal driving, but spirited driving and you'll need something a little thicker like Amsoil 5w30, Redline 5w30, Schaeffer 5w30 or GC 0w30. Any of those four oils would show you better results than the 0w20 under hard driving. Be sure to get a higher flowing oil filter too (in other words don't use a Mobil 1 or PureONE filter)

 

[Meat]

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:
If you drive your car hard you definitely don't want the 0w20 in there. This oil will work well for normal driving, but spirited driving and you'll need something a little thicker like Amsoil 5w30, Redline 5w30, Schaeffer 5w30 or GC 0w30. Any of those four oils would show you better results than the 0w20 under hard driving. Be sure to get a higher flowing oil filter too (in other words don't use a Mobil 1 or PureONE filter)

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I did switch to the K&N filter when the M1 0w-20 went in. Now if I can only back off on the heavy foot, maybe I could keep this M1 in till spring.
I'm going to try and locate the GC and make that my next run of oil. Thanx for the input

 

[Surprise]

Drive the car as normal and do the UOA on the mobil before you discredit it completely.

 

[buster]

quote:

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Drive the car as normal and do the UOA on the mobil before you discredit it completely.

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quote:

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Obviously, one wants a viscosity high enough to prevent parts from grinding against each other, but no higher than that, because any more results in excessive friction within the oil, leading to excess heat and power loss. The ideal oil would provide the minimum required viscosity under all conditions. Unfortunately, oil’s viscosity diminishes with increasing temperature, necessitating the use of an oil which will have the minimum required viscosity at the highest expected temperature, and greater than optimal viscosity at lower temperatures.

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This was from another thread but relates to the never ending question of viscosity.


I agree with surprise. UOA's can surprise you and this oil might actually be fine under hard driving conditions although I think Patman is on the right track.

[ September 14, 2003, 03:11 PM: Message edited by: buster ]

 

[Meat]

Well now I'm dying to send in a sample but what would be a fair amount of mileage to get a good indication of how the oil is doing?

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Meat:
Well now I'm dying to send in a sample but what would be a fair amount of mileage to get a good indication of how the oil is doing?

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If you can, try and do about a 5k interval to get a good indication of things.

 

[Meat]

Will do

 

[Asmodeus]

What is the temp range on the M1 0W20?

 

[buster]

quote:

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Capable of pumping at -58º F and pouring at -71º F (-50º C and -57º C), Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 0W-20 provides a protection system for the most extreme driving conditions. In addition, Mobil 1 0W-20 offers fuel economy benefits and superior cleaning power compared to 5W-30 and 10W-30 motor oils.

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IMO, the best 20wt oil on the market.

[ September 14, 2003, 11:10 PM: Message edited by: buster ]

 

[Meat]

Thanks for the feed back...

I won't be able to send a sample in for a few more months. I had just changed the oil about 1,500 miles ago. I guess I'm just a little unsure of the 0w-20 but what do I know. Pouring the M1 floored me ! **** , I think the absolute vodka I have in the freezer was thicker. Guess I'm just not use to the thin oil yet. Not sure if I'll ever be either.

 

[tenderloin]

Best 0W-20? Long time Torco and Synergyn 0W-20 user. Both get my vote.

Synergyn
SAE Grade 0w - 20 Weight Engine Oil
Viscosity @ 40 Degrees C 48.2
Viscosity @ 100 Degrees C 8.8
Viscosity Index 165
API Gravity 31.7
Specific Gravity 0.867
Flash Point, Degrees F 410 Degrees F
Pour Point, Degrees F -65 Degrees F

Torco coming......

[ September 15, 2003, 12:44 AM: Message edited by: tenderloin ]

 

[sprintman]

buster what about RL 5W20?

 

[buster]

quote:

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buster what about RL 5W20?

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spec wise yes, RL is the best. Real world performance? Not so sure.

 

[Meat]

Woo Hoo ! Found a case of GC at my local Autozone, $49.90 I'll run the M1 for 5,000 then make the switch.

 

[crossbow]

Hey Guys,

Thought I would drop a note

. I recently sent in a UOA to blackstone labs on the 0w-20 mobil1 supersyn. (I have a mazda6s as well).

Waiting the report

.

I originally was trying 5w-30 mobil1 for a short while, but there was a DEFINITE change in the feel of the engine between the 30 wt and 20 wt. Yes I know 5w-30 is a very light 30wt...but many other mazda6s owners have reported the same experiences.

With a 30wt oil in this car, the rev's drop noticably faster, and the rev's up are slower as well.

It feels off when you go from a 20 to a 30 wt...and if your running a 30 wt and go to the 20 wt the car feels different...faster, more responsive, and actually a bit quieter.

Could it be possible that this car (This the first model year with this engine...part ford, part mazda based on the duratec platform [only the block]) is actually designed to run with a 20 wt?

Even Japan recommends putting 5w-20 syn-blend in the car...

Btw I'm a pretty hard driver, so the blackstone report should be pretty indicative of protection levels.

How hard?

Hows that?

 

[pscholte]

That's very good, but you gotta try to get the right front wheel off the ground in the right-hand turns!

[ September 15, 2003, 02:19 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]

 

[crashz]

quote:

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Originally posted by Meat:
Woo Hoo ! Found a case of GC at my local Autozone, $49.90 I'll run the M1 for 5,000 then make the switch.

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Where did you find it? I looked for it at 3 different Autozones on Sunday, only to find the American 0w-30.