M1 FS Euro 0w-40, Val PB "Restore" 10w-30, 5.1K OCI, 07 GMC 6.2L

GM recommends 2-3k piston ring break in yet there are some on here that say there is no break-in necessary these days.
 
Carryover can have a bigger effect than expected. Some examples from my own recent UOAs:
Calcium starts at 2813, ends at 2369. Previous UOA had Ca of 840
Calcium starts at 1702, ends at 1361. Previous UOA had Ca of 987
Magnesium starts at 12, ends at 120. Previous UOA had Mg of 727
Magnesium starts at 11, ends at 95. Previous UOA had Mg of 693
How big is the sump? There will be some inherent variability and of course some additives that disappear (like Boron). My SRT's UOA has lower levels of phosphorous than either the baseline for the oil used and the previous oil for example. Here's my wife's 1500. Oil #1 is M1 EP 0W-20, #2 is the BL for the HPL SC 0W-20, #3 is the UOA. You can see Zinc stayed unchanged, while phosphorous shows a bit lower, as did Magnesium and Calcium:

Screen Shot 2023-08-16 at 12.18.54 AM.jpg
 
How big is the sump? There will be some inherent variability and of course some additives that disappear (like Boron).
I intentionally did not mention Boron because of that. As for sump?

These two came from our Volvo S80 with a 7.2qt sump:
Calcium starts at 2813, ends at 2369. Previous UOA had Ca of 840
Magnesium starts at 12, ends at 120. Previous UOA had Mg of 727
UOA: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...i-castrol-euro-5w30-a3-b4.375252/post-6668562

These two came from our CR-V, with a sump size of 3.7qt:
Calcium starts at 1702, ends at 1361. Previous UOA had Ca of 987
Magnesium starts at 11, ends at 95. Previous UOA had Mg of 693
Here's the UOA: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2018-cr-v-mobil-1-esp-5w30-4502-miles.373385/post-6618097

Obviously, this is most prevalent when previous oil has some widely different values than current oil, but it illustrates my point that unless you're sticking with the same (or similar) oil, you will occasionally see some significant differences just from carryover.
 
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Obviously, this is most prevalent when previous oil has some widely different values than current oil, but it illustrates my point that unless you're sticking with the same (or similar) oil, you will occasionally see some significant differences just from carryover.
That's why I found Zinc on mine interesting, because even though the previous oil had massively less, the level wasn't reduced. You saw a 500ppm reduction in calcium going from an oil with 840, while I saw only a reduction of 171ppm going from an oil with ~1000ppm. Previous oil moly was only 76 but deviation from the VOA was almost nothing.

So, given these data points, can we just chalk the deviations up to dilution by the previous product? I don't think we can.
 
That's a very good point, but unless you're consistently using the same oil blend over and over, you're going to get carryover that still results in "mixing oils".
Right, another reason why it is a fruitless endeavor. But to each their own. There is no guarantee of gain or loss.
 
I would say, dont mix the different brands of oil, thinking you are accomplishing anything, you are not. Use one or the other in an OCI. Chemistry will be different and you may not be getting the full potential of either or when you mix. Both of the oils you chose are "leading brand", so you cant go wrong with either. Sure they meet the same specs, but get there in a differrent way.

I am not an expert in oil anaylsis, thats all I got.
It’s really not a lot different than mixing a qt of Hp EC into the sump for a slower cleaning.
 
Not really you did not really help me ,since it is not my thread, your point is invalid. HPL EC is specifically made to mix with oils, for a specific reason.
well, going by that logic, Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer is also “made to mix with oils for a specific reason”. So is every other motor oil additive on earth. So they all must be better to mix with motor oil than, uh motor oil lol???

Do you wonder why HPL EC states in their product description this-
  • Compatible with other conventional and synthetic engine oils
How do you know if HPL EC is more compatible with Mobil 1 0w40 than is VPBR?
 
well, going by that logic, Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer is also “made to mix with oils for a specific reason”. So is every other motor oil additive on earth. So they all must be better to mix with motor oil than, uh motor oil lol???

Do you wonder why HPL EC states in their product description this-
  • Compatible with other conventional and synthetic engine oils
How do you know if HPL EC is more compatible with Mobil 1 0w40 than is VPBR?
Dont care why HPL states as they do. I have no doubt that it is formulated to work WITH oils. ""Other" would denote "other than our products" I would assume, but you should ask them.

Do I know? Not really, I am not a chemist or oil scientist, but I have asked this question in the past to Valvoline, regarding Napa oil, and their answer was that there was no advantage, and the benefits of the oils would be degraded. Although they were blended by Valvoline, the products were different, and they did not recommend the practice on a regular basis on that point.
 
There will undoubtedly be mixing when doing an oil change. I think we have to look at how different engine may "hold" oil even when the oil is drained, even over an extended amount of time (i.e. draining overnight). Last year while I was doing an oil change and draining the oil and just letting it drip, I was preparing to do some other repairs. I jacked up the rear end and another half a quart of oil came out of the oil pan. As a result, I had to add another half quart during the fill than what I normally do. My guess is if I jacked up the front and each side, I may get even more oil drained.
 
Dont care why HPL states as they do. I have no doubt that it is formulated to work WITH oils. ""Other" would denote "other than our products" I would assume, but you should ask them.

Do I know? Not really, I am not a chemist or oil scientist, but I have asked this question in the past to Valvoline, regarding Napa oil, and their answer was that there was no advantage, and the benefits of the oils would be degraded. Although they were blended by Valvoline, the producd not recommend the practice on a regular basis on that point.
Thanks for admiring you don’t really know what your talking about.
 
The oil load/mix I drained this time (post #1) was blacker/dirtier than previous OCIs. This was one reason I changed it when I did. Plus, the oci history and sample results I have on this engine and with the way we drive/use it, IMO indicates that a 5k to 6k mile oci is about right.

When I changed the oil a couple of weeks ago I doubled up on the "Restore" mix, 2 qts "Restore" w/4 qts M1 Euro 0w-40. Last oci the mix was 1 qt. "Restore" and 5 qt. M1 Euro 0w-40.

Sometime this summer, mid-way thru this oci, I'm gonna go back into the engine, this time to change the VLOM, balancer/pulley and seal, and timing cover gasket. While I'm there I'll probably drop the oil pan and pull the valve covers again to see what is what. I had the oil pan off in 2018 65k miles ago. See my pics in post# 29 here. I'll see (curiosity of this mad scientist) if the "Restore", and all the different oils I've used since buying the vehicle in late 2018, are doing some clean-up of the internal surfaces.

View attachment 211194
07 Yukon Denali - As I mentioned I hoped to do this summer, I dug into the engine a bit to see what I could see, clean more internal parts up, and replace some ole parts (preventative mx).
Looks like MAYBE my mad scientist "MIX" for the last 6k miles of VPB "Restore" and M1 Euro "MAY" be doing a little cleaning (debris)?
Or "MAYBE" the debris is from ALL the various oils I have used in it the last 5+ yrs and 68k miles under my ownership.

I had the pan off in 2018 and totally cleaned it inside. These pic are from 2 weeks ago.
DSCN8406.JPG

DSCN8410.JPG

DSCN8408.JPG
 
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Oh my God!
How dare you perform an experiment by mixing a top notch oil with a top notch cleaning oil, and then provide before and after pictures of your experiment!

I hope you're happy with yourself, and your results, because you killed off all that varnish that you engine used to have in it!
How dare you do what you want with your own pile of engine oils and vehicle that you paid for yourself, and didn't listen to this forum on all our mixed ideas about life, the universe, and oil changes???!!!

You are a Bad Man for doing this, and shame on your willingness to do what you want instead of what others tell you!!

And don't you dare do any more experiments like this by telling us, and providing pictures, otherwise you will get scolded again by people who just can't stand it!!!

But if you do, I will look at everything you provide, but not actually look at it, because it might make me do something similar, but different.

You know, like putting 5 quarts of Valvoline R&P along with 3 quarts of Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 into a 2015 Porsche Cayman 2.7 L flat six engine with 66k miles on it. And I might drive it until the 70k mile mark. And I might have started this sometime in the past month.

We can't have you doing that, and causing others to things like what I might or might not have done.
It would bring shame on both of our houses!

Good Job!
 
I’m still amazed that GM puts that small oil filter on a large engine in a large vehicle. Doesn’t make sense to me.
 
07 Yukon Denali - As I mentioned I hoped to do this summer, I dug into the engine a bit to see what I could see, clean more internal parts up, and replace some ole parts (preventative mx).
Looks like MAYBE my mad scientist "MIX" for the last 6k miles of VPB "Restore" and M1 Euro "MAY" be doing a little cleaning (debris)?
Or "MAYBE" the debris is from ALL the various oils I have used in it the last 5+ yrs and 68k miles under my ownership.

I had the pan off in 2018 and totally cleaned it inside. These pic are from 2 weeks ago.
View attachment 228443
View attachment 228444
View attachment 228447
Wow that’s a hefty amount of carbon, something worked and I’d guess it was the Valvoline Restore that’s mostly responsible. I know you previously cleaned the pan back in ‘18 but after this removal did you notice if the varnish that existed in the internals of the engine had cleaned up any from what you could see?
 
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