M1 FS Euro 0w-40, Val PB "Restore" 10w-30, 5.1K OCI, 07 GMC 6.2L

[jetman]

This Valvoline Restore product is for cleaning up OP engine as it was designed to do that. They could have used all Valv. Restore but wanted to see the results first before bumping up to 2 quarts. It probably wouldn't be a good idea to just add all of this Restore product at once until things are tested hence the mix.

@fantastic
You nailed it.
Val PB "Restore" is a special oil. I'm being conservative in my use of it. It might clean too good and clog the full flow filter. Seal swelling is another concern.

"Restore" doesn't grow on trees. Its chemistry was discussed here on BOB a few yrs back when it was available. HPL AdvancedLubricants could probably mix up something like it?

Mixing different oils together has been promoted here on BOB for at least the past 2 yrs. I've been reading about folks recommending mixing in a qt of EC-30 with a load of mainstream oil.

 

[burbguy82]

I thought that's exactly what OP is doing are they not?

Not sure.

@jetman

I have given my opinion, as you asked, take it or leave it.

 

[burbguy82]

@fantastic
You nailed it.
Val PB "Restore" is a special oil. I'm being conservative in my use of it. It might clean too good and clog the full flow filter. Seal swelling is another concern.

"Restore" doesn't grow on trees. Its chemistry was discussed here on BOB a few yrs back when it was available. HPL AdvancedLubricants could probably mix up something like it?

Mixing different oils together has been promoted here on BOB for at least the past 2 yrs. I've been reading about folks recommending mixing in a qt of EC-30 with a load of mainstream oil.

View attachment 210042
View attachment 210043

is this a virgin analysis on Restore?

 

[jetman]

is this a virgin analysis on Restore?

yes,
viscosity is 11.7 cSt, not 1.7 as misprinted in the Speediagnostix report

 

[burbguy82]

yes,
viscosity is 11.7 cSt, not 1.7 as misprinted in the Speediagnostix report

Restore looks like some serious stuff, as I understand it anyway.

As to your cleanup project on your truck, I would wager that since you have had it, you have changed the oil regularly, using good oil, if I understand the situation. I would further wager that using this oil exclusively would not damage a thing. It is likely that your engine is pretty clean now, being as you have kept up with maintenance, and you drive plenty to get it nice and hot.

Have you ever sent a camera into the engine?

That sample was from 2019? I thought the stuff was new. hmm

 

[Yolo]

I’ll be mixing Mobil 1 EP 0w20 with Valvoline 0w20 and QSFS 0w20 (leftovers from 8 quart Chevy oil changes) and throwing it in my son’s wrangler. I do not anticipate it’ll do harm over a 3000 mile oci.

 

[Brons2]

195K, I don't see any problem with doing this.

 

[BrendanC]

by the logic in this thread, you wouldn’t be able to switch oil brands or weights for that matter without fully disassembling and cleaning a motor.

 

[jetman]

Have you ever sent a camera into the engine?

Me, myself, and I went into the engine 5+ yrs ago shortly after I bought it for rear main seal job and oil pan/pickup tube o-ring. Below are pics:

That sample was from 2019? I thought the stuff was new. hmm

You need to catch up. Val PB "Restore" hasn't been sold for yrs. I have a small stash.

 

[burbguy82]

Me, myself, and I went into the engine 5+ yrs ago shortly after I bought it for rear main seal job and oil pan/pickup tube o-ring. Below are pics:

You need to catch up. Val PB "Restore" hasn't been sold for yrs. I have a small stash.
View attachment 210085
View attachment 210086
View attachment 210087

have you used the newer version?

 

[jetman]

have you used the newer version?

No
Valvoline "Restore & Protect" doesn't hold a candle to Valvoline Premium Blue "Restore".
Here's a pic of both

 

[Impatient]

I used VPBR full-strength for 4 summers, while I could get my hands on it. I ran it for “extended” drains. It did much better than the run-of-mill Walmart synthetics I used during the low-mileage “off-seasons,” according to UOA’s. But the guy who turned me on to it, who claimed he was part of the development effort, said any blending would disproportionately ruin its cleaning effect. Supposedly.

I’ve DIY-blended a fair amount, but try to keep the blending within brand, and even more specifically within “version.” Eg, I’ve mixed Castrol Euro oils, though it was because I had some, but not enough, of each weight (0w30 and 0w40). I’m not sure it really bought me anything, though “I thought” the 0w40 alone would be too thick. I also mixed QSFS 5w30 with QSFS Euro 5w40 once, but wasn’t really satisfied, though it stayed well within 30 grade, and might not have, with straight 5w30.

I guess all this just reiterates what some others have said.

 

[Impatient]

have you used the newer version?

I think there was supposed to be a VPBR Gen 2…but I’ve never seen it in the wild. I’m not sure what the Restore and Protect has in common, other than the R-word.

 

[OVERKILL]

by the logic in this thread, you wouldn’t be able to switch oil brands or weights for that matter without fully disassembling and cleaning a motor.

Mixing oils isn't "optimal" because the odds of you improving something are infinitesimally low but negatively impacting some aspect of the chemistry, quite probable. It could be a reduction in low temperature performance (most common), an increase in Noack, throw of the FM balance...etc. Lots of things to "go wrong" which is why oils are fully formulated products and not Jebediah with a butter churn and some raw ingredients tossing this stuff together in a shed.

That said, unless you actually put the mix, and the products you mixed individually through the testing sequences, you really have no idea what has changed from the performance of each of those constituents alone. It's not something Joe Average is going to be able to determine from sight/smell/taste/feel or from a UOA and the odds of it having any easily discerned impact on longevity are low. Rings coking up, varnish build-up...etc, these things don't happen overnight or even over the course of a couple (normal) OCI's.

In the case of being frugal with a production whose purpose was to clean up piston ring deposits and is now unobtainium, while I generally don't recommend mixing as a practice, the OP's logic here is sound and the approach is really no different than the idea of mixing in a litre or two of HPL EC30.

 

[OVERKILL]

looks like 8 to 10,000 miles on thin oil, that doesnt report too well.

Gm likely very happy that you are using their recommend, as you will be buying a new vehicle sooner rather than later.

12.2cSt is hardly "thin".

 

[wpod]

Great mpgs.

 

[himemsys]

Mixing oils isn't "optimal" because the odds of you improving something are infinitesimally low but negatively impacting some aspect of the chemistry, quite probable. It could be a reduction in low temperature performance (most common), an increase in Noack, throw of the FM balance...etc. Lots of things to "go wrong" which is why oils are fully formulated products and not Jebediah with a butter churn and some raw ingredients tossing this stuff together in a shed.

That said, unless you actually put the mix, and the products you mixed individually through the testing sequences, you really have no idea what has changed from the performance of each of those constituents alone. It's not something Joe Average is going to be able to determine from sight/smell/taste/feel or from a UOA and the odds of it having any easily discerned impact on longevity are low. Rings coking up, varnish build-up...etc, these things don't happen overnight or even over the course of a couple (normal) OCI's.

In the case of being frugal with a production whose purpose was to clean up piston ring deposits and is now unobtainium, while I generally don't recommend mixing as a practice, the OP's logic here is sound and the approach is really no different than the idea of mixing in a litre or two of HPL EC30.

That's a very good point, but unless you're consistently using the same oil blend over and over, you're going to get carryover that still results in "mixing oils".

 

[OVERKILL]

That's a very good point, but unless you're consistently using the same oil blend over and over, you're going to get carryover that still results in "mixing oils".

Sure, but there's a considerable difference between a bit of residual oil mixing with 5 quarts of fresh and intentionally adding 1, 2 or 3 quarts of a different product.

 

[jetman]

The oil load/mix I drained this time (post #1) was blacker/dirtier than previous OCIs. This was one reason I changed it when I did. Plus, the oci history and sample results I have on this engine and with the way we drive/use it, IMO indicates that a 5k to 6k mile oci is about right.

When I changed the oil a couple of weeks ago I doubled up on the "Restore" mix, 2 qts "Restore" w/4 qts M1 Euro 0w-40. Last oci the mix was 1 qt. "Restore" and 5 qt. M1 Euro 0w-40.

Sometime this summer, mid-way thru this oci, I'm gonna go back into the engine, this time to change the VLOM, balancer/pulley and seal, and timing cover gasket. While I'm there I'll probably drop the oil pan and pull the valve covers again to see what is what. I had the oil pan off in 2018 65k miles ago. See my pics in post# 29 here. I'll see (curiosity of this mad scientist) if the "Restore", and all the different oils I've used since buying the vehicle in late 2018, are doing some clean-up of the internal surfaces.

 

[himemsys]

Sure, but there's a considerable difference between a bit of residual oil mixing with 5 quarts of fresh and intentionally adding 1, 2 or 3 quarts of a different product.

Carryover can have a bigger effect than expected. Some examples from my own recent UOAs:
Calcium starts at 2813, ends at 2369. Previous UOA had Ca of 840
Calcium starts at 1702, ends at 1361. Previous UOA had Ca of 987
Magnesium starts at 12, ends at 120. Previous UOA had Mg of 727
Magnesium starts at 11, ends at 95. Previous UOA had Mg of 693