Where can you get QuakerState Euro LX, I haven't seen it anywhere, I know it's just rebranded Pennzoil Euro LX, but that stuff is pretty steep at like $10/qt, If I were going for mid SAPS I'd just use 5W30 Euro L, Euro LX is probably overall better since it's got MB-Approval 229.52 which has LSPI tests and some additional oxidation requirements over 229.51 but for the short intervals you should be doing in a hyundai I can't see where it's necessary.
Kia K5 GT oil suggestions
- Thread starter SilverFusion2010
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If it's on the shelf at the local Wal-Mart I'll give it a try. I know I can find both M1 oils there, no idea if that Pennzoil Euro LX 0w-30 is on the shelf. I will look for it.
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Deleted member 89374
The sheer stupidity of what Hyundai did with the oil recommendations for these new engines is mind-boggling. I find it even more disturbing that none of the YouTubers that review cars called them out on this BS. I bet that they did all their testing and validation for the 2.5 Smartstream Turbo motor on that Pennzoil Euro LX 0W-30, or whatever its Shell equivalent is, since they have a contract with Shell to supply their motor oil. As a side note, did you know that Shell makes the Lifeguard fluid for ZF transmissions, that super expensive unicorn juice?
I completely agree with you on the "if I can find it at Walmart, I'll buy it" statement. I use the same rule of thumb for motor oil. For driveline and transmission fluids, I go to Amsoil. The only exception is the ZF8 in the RAM 1500, where I use Mopar 8&9 Speed, which is Lifeguard 8 in a different bottle, which Shell made.
You can find Pennzoil Euro L 5W-30 motor oil at Walmart. It's not as good as the LX, though. Honestly, the way I see it, the simplest solution for you that has the minimal amount of headaches for you is to use Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 or Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40, both found at Walmart. It fits your parameters nicely. Mobil 1 FS 0W-30 shears down to 0W-30 in a heartbeat. It's designed like that. Castrol is a hair thicker. I use both. Your turbo will actually benefit from the higher levels of ZDDP (it gets hot in there). The reduced levels of ZDDP don't have much to do with the catalytic convertors in fuel economy oils, but rather with temporary shearing, oil thickness at cold, and other insane parameters that those oils have to meet so that they can get certified. I meant, use common sense: if your engine burns oil, then it really doesn't matter if you have 800ppm or 950ppm of phosphorus in your motor oil. That cat will still get clogged. Or in the case of some Pennzoil oils and Mobil 1 EP 0W-20, it's more like 600ppm. And the reason for that is cold cranking in at very low temperatures—something to think about.
Great oil but you won't find it at Walmart. They have Euro L at most of them but not the same thing.
For Walmart oils I believe he'd be better off with the Quaker State Euro 5w40, it has a LSPI friendly formulation unlike Edge 0w40 or Mobil which both have high calcium.
I believe he would prefer a 30 grade oil though so Euro L is probably the closest he'll come to what he's looking for at Walmart. They have Castrol Edge Euro 5w30 at some of them but again full saps AND high calcium add pack.
And they will get it regardless of the grade, unless the winter rating is so inappropriate for the temperature that the oil cannot be pumped. Barring that it's not going to make a bit of difference.
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Deleted member 89374
LSPI is not an issue for his motor. I had a Sonata 2.0T, and I ran Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 in it, no issues whatsoever. I even tried Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, and it ran fine. And that was Hyundai's first Turbo engine ever. Using Premium gas helps a lot with fuel dilution.
Quake Stater Euro 5W-40 is also a full-SAPS motor oil, so it's not any different than all the others, and it's most likely a Group III oil.
The Smartstream GDI/MPI Turbo engine is a modern design, so why use motor oil designed for old technology? The 2.5L in our Sonata runs perfectly happy on 0W-20, and the fuel mileage is great. Being a Turbo, he needs a better oil, but 10W-30 isn't the answer. There is a reason why Hyundai recommends 0W-30, though they screwed up the owner's manual because non-engineers are allowed to write the motor oil section. And yes, I saw the service manual for these new Hyundais, and just like in previous years, everything is allowed up to 20W-50.
OP is looking for something LSPI friendly whether he needs it or not. The QS is GTL, so Grp III+ yes full saps but still the LSPI friendly SN Plus add pack which is why I suggested it as all.
I use nothing but top tier premium in my Passat as well.
I use nothing but top tier premium in my Passat as well.
I'm still not sure why you're so adamantly against 10w-30 in this motor. It's a very stout oil, and yes it is thick when cold but if the service manual allows everything up to 20w-50 then the motor is fine with it. Kschachn is correct in that the cranking viscosity doesn't make any practical difference to when oil gets to various parts of the engine.
12cst hot is .1 off the factory fill viscosity and the HTHS of 3.5 is identical to most of the Euro oils you have recommended.
I get that you don't approve of 10w-30, I just don't understand why. Less VI is a good thing right? Is PAO that much better than a nice Group III?
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Deleted member 89374
Oh yeah, the old "meets and exceeds", which has become a running joke around here for good reason.OP is looking for something LSPI friendly whether he needs it or not. The QS is GTL, so Grp III+ yes full saps but still the LSPI friendly SN Plus add pack which is why I suggested it as all.
I use nothing but top tier premium in my Passat as well.
From the QS Euro 5w-40 spec PDF:
Then from the Quaker State website:
Yeah, I thought so. Like all the other 0W-40 and 5W-40 Euro oils, it's API SN only.
It's your vehicle, use what you want in it. I wouldn't use it in mine, but that's my choice I just gave you my opinion., nothing more. If 10W-30 makes you happy, use it.
[Edit]
If you're so concerned about VI, then there isn't much that beats Red Line Oil 5W-30. It's as good as they come, however, it's not a long OCI oil.
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Shell's websites become increasingly awful. The QS is approved for a ton of specs (you'll find it on manufacturers approval lists) and is SN Plus.
I think the OP is looking for something technically a 30 grade though due to his manual.
Meets and exceeds is the correct language for an ACEA sequence. And as KCJeep notes it has the other approvals as well despite being worded somewhat improperly in the table header. The Mercedes-Benz approvals are worded exactly correct in the body of the table and can easily be verified at the Bevo website.
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Deleted member 89374
That's not my point. My point is that it's rated as an API SN motor oil, not API SN Plus. When it comes to the API, "meets and exceeds" doesn't mean much. It either carries the proper API classification or it doesn't. And this one is not API SN Plus.
I have no idea what you are talking about. The product is API SN PLUS per the API EOLCS. It might be better if you verify things before posting them as fact.
And that is also appropriate language for an API license.
Exactly. If I need warranty work for the engine I want to be able to say I ran a 30 grade that meets the API SN+, SP or ILSAC GF-6 Spec
Ironically, most of these are "weaker" oils
Although that 5w-40 that meets SN+ looks pretty good... more SAPS allowed with the 40
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Deleted member 89374
I got it from the Quaker State website here: https://www.quakerstate.com/en_us/p...lZGFwcF8xNTA1MjIyOTUuc3RhdGljL2lmcmFtZS5odG1s
This is what it says:
So... don't shoot the messenger
@blufeb95 If I can find it, I will buy some and try it in my wife's 2017 Santa FE SE. It's allowed by the owner's manual. Thanks for nagging me with this by the way
Anyway, we're arguing over nothing. The OP made up his mind about what he wants to use, which is 10W-30, probably in High Mileage form. He'll probably be fine with it. He wanted opinions. He got mine.
That's an entirely different discussion that merits its own thread. To keep it short, the main idea with engine warranty work is that it's pretty much up to the dealer. If you call Hyundai/KIA, they will be sticklers for "using the recommended oil viscosity with the appropriate approvals." Good luck with that, since they clusterf*cked the owner's manual. So it's up to the dealer to properly document the warranty request by taking pictures of the internals (they don't usually go too deep at the dealership on blown engines). I'm pretty well acquainted with my local Hyundai dealer since we're customers there for over 15 years. This past month I saw a Sonata Hybrid with a blown engine where they didn't have an oil change history. They still approved an engine replacement. I was in the shop and saw the engine pulled out of the vehicle, it had a hole in the block where the connecting rod punched through. I've known the tech working on it for a very long time, and his opinion was "lack of maintenance, probably ran low on oil, who knows. Hyundai will replace it."
Call KIA and ask them, see what they say. I'd be inquisitive about what they say when you ask them where you can get 0W-30 API SP oil (other than M1 AFE 0W-30, which I'm not even sure after looking at their website that it carries the API SP donut). If they say the dealer, tell them the dealer doesn't have it and doesn't know because they don't. I asked my dealer what they put in the G70 with the 2.5T, and they said 5W-30 bulk. So there you go... Still, I'd love to know what KIA has to say, officially.
Well it's really more metallic additives that analyze with a higher value in the sulfated ash test. There isn't "sulfated ash" in a motor oil.
And there are other ways of accomplishing the same thing as traditional metallic additives that won't contribute to the SA test results.
API sets no limits on sulfated ash for S-rated oils, nor does ILSAC, although most manufacturers seem to have add packages built around satisfying Dexos1 so they limit the sulphated ash to around 1%
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