Kia K5 GT oil suggestions
- Thread starter SilverFusion2010
- Start date
Did you read the thread? I have reasons for questioning 0w-30 with HTHS and VI topping the list.
FYI Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-30 is API SL
It's full saps and doesn't meet the 800ppm requirements to be both a 30 and SM, SN, SN+, SP
That said it's an excellent oil and if I didn't have to worry about warranties I'd run it in a heartbeat.
It's full saps and doesn't meet the 800ppm requirements to be both a 30 and SM, SN, SN+, SP
That said it's an excellent oil and if I didn't have to worry about warranties I'd run it in a heartbeat.
I think that oil has either been discontinued or just about no retailer wants to stock it anymore, the only one I see that's actually available anywhere is Euro L 5w30.
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I’m looking for an Xw-30 with HTHS 3.5 and API SN+ or SP
the Euro oils look great but they’re not SN+ or SP and I need Xw-30, API SN+ or SP or ILSAC GF-6 to maintain warranty
the Euro oils look great but they’re not SN+ or SP and I need Xw-30, API SN+ or SP or ILSAC GF-6 to maintain warranty
stop living in fear they’re gonna run a UOA. “that double digit kv100 and zinc level looks mighty unusual, let’s deny his warranty claim”. really?
GF-6/SN+ 5W30s are american style fuel economy oils. no exceptions. for 99.999999% of use cases this is no problem at all. if you want a more robust oil you have to take the risk
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Maybe consider a Dexos2 oil.
The K5 is an excellent value. You want the low Noack / low VII / ACEA A3/B3 / API SP Mobil 1 HM 10w30 for maximum durability.
Consider Michelin Pilot Super Sports to eliminate any front wheel peel
The K5 is an excellent value. You want the low Noack / low VII / ACEA A3/B3 / API SP Mobil 1 HM 10w30 for maximum durability.
Consider Michelin Pilot Super Sports to eliminate any front wheel peel
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I just read a little more on the Smartstream engines, are these dual injection engines and not just GDI on it's own? I guess a Euro mid SAPS oil may not necessarily matter if that's the case. Reading the manual though, it looks like even the high SAPS Euro oils are out because they seem to be at newest SN and the manual says that you have to use SN+ or above or ILSAC GF-6, since the manual only says to use 0w30, and there's only like one 0w30 oil that is in existence that meets that criteria., maybe get some clarification from the dealer if using a higher winter viscosity is OK for warranty purposes.
The engine is MPI and GDI. I have no qualms about going up in winter rating. As has been pointed out any of these engines serviced at a dealer are most likely to get bulk 5w-30. I’m sure I’ll try a 5w-30 at some point just to see how the car likes it. But it has to be a 30 and it has to be SN+, or SP or GF-6
My wife is looking for a new car so we can pass the Optima SXL down to our son.
We are having a hard time finding a 2.5T AWD K5 for a test drive. All the K5's around here are the 1.6 flavor.
We will likely have to search beyond New England, which is fine. It will likely come down to the K5 or she may step into a Stinger.
Regarding oil, I've been running PP GTL 10W30 in her SXL. Runs smooth. I did try 5W40 a couple of times, but her commute to Worcester or Boston in Eco mode made it seem overkill. I wouldn't hesitate to deviate and run a 10W30 if/when we buy a new K5. I do change to 5W30 in winter as it can get pretty cold here in Western Mass.
We are having a hard time finding a 2.5T AWD K5 for a test drive. All the K5's around here are the 1.6 flavor.
We will likely have to search beyond New England, which is fine. It will likely come down to the K5 or she may step into a Stinger.
Regarding oil, I've been running PP GTL 10W30 in her SXL. Runs smooth. I did try 5W40 a couple of times, but her commute to Worcester or Boston in Eco mode made it seem overkill. I wouldn't hesitate to deviate and run a 10W30 if/when we buy a new K5. I do change to 5W30 in winter as it can get pretty cold here in Western Mass.
Unfortunately there is no 2.5T available for anything other than GT trim in the K5. All the other trims have the 1.6T and a regular 8-speed auto. You can get them in AWD however. AWD is not available for the GT, probably something to do with the dual-clutch transmission the GT has.
The Stinger has more options for the powertrain. If I'd had a larger budget I would have gone with the Stinger
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I can't remember if it's been mentioned in this thread or not, but Shell's current Euro oils are SN Plus and SP (Pennzoil and Quaker State).
D
Deleted member 89374
The Ford Ecoboost 2.7L and 3.5 can tow at least 7000 to 10000 lbs. They run just fine on 5W-30. You have an overpowered engine in a ~3200 lbs small car. The manufacturer's recommendation makes sense. Genesis uses the same engine as well in some of their vehicles.
You are concerned about the wrong things. Motor oils are tightly regulated, especially in the 0W-16 -> 5W-30 range. You can safely use Castrol EDGE 0W-30 API SL motor oil. It's PAO-based, has a higher than 3.5 HTHS. Alternatively, you can use Castrol EDGE 0W-40. They lean towards mid-SAPS more so than Mobil 1 FS (lower sulfated ash). Please consider that the Smartstream engine was designed with thinner oils in mind, so when you use a thicker oil, you will lose MPG, and the motor won't be as rev happy. I wouldn't even consider 10W-30 because it's very thick when cold.
If it were my car, I would use Amsoil SS 0W-30. If I were tracking it, I would go to Castrol EDGE 0W-30 or Redline 5W-30. Alternatively, I would absolutely use Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 or Castrol EDGE EP 5W-30. All good oils. For the 2020 models, Hyundai/KIA wasn't as strict about oils or even API SN+/SP. But they don't want to get into trouble with the EPA. You don't have a small displacement turbo, so SN+/SP shouldn't be a concern for you.
I have a feeling that you will beat yourself to death with this and ruin your engine.
What you should really be concerned about is to do your first oil change as soon as possible. You will see a lot of shiny metals in that open cartridge oil filter. Then do 50 to 100 miles on that new oil and dump it again. You will see way fewer metals the second time around. Then do ~3500 miles and do another old change. Then you can do them every 5000 miles. That's more important than what oil you will use. Trust me.
To recap: If you want to stick to MFG spec, then Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 or Amsoil SS 0W-30. Suppose you want good oil easily available, then Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 / Castrol EDGE EP 5W-30. If you think you will beat your car to death, then Castrol EDGE 0W-40. Don't even look at Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. It has a boat load of VI and shears down to 5W-20 faster than you can say "cat-in-a-hat."
You are concerned about the wrong things. Motor oils are tightly regulated, especially in the 0W-16 -> 5W-30 range. You can safely use Castrol EDGE 0W-30 API SL motor oil. It's PAO-based, has a higher than 3.5 HTHS. Alternatively, you can use Castrol EDGE 0W-40. They lean towards mid-SAPS more so than Mobil 1 FS (lower sulfated ash). Please consider that the Smartstream engine was designed with thinner oils in mind, so when you use a thicker oil, you will lose MPG, and the motor won't be as rev happy. I wouldn't even consider 10W-30 because it's very thick when cold.
If it were my car, I would use Amsoil SS 0W-30. If I were tracking it, I would go to Castrol EDGE 0W-30 or Redline 5W-30. Alternatively, I would absolutely use Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 or Castrol EDGE EP 5W-30. All good oils. For the 2020 models, Hyundai/KIA wasn't as strict about oils or even API SN+/SP. But they don't want to get into trouble with the EPA. You don't have a small displacement turbo, so SN+/SP shouldn't be a concern for you.
I have a feeling that you will beat yourself to death with this and ruin your engine.
What you should really be concerned about is to do your first oil change as soon as possible. You will see a lot of shiny metals in that open cartridge oil filter. Then do 50 to 100 miles on that new oil and dump it again. You will see way fewer metals the second time around. Then do ~3500 miles and do another old change. Then you can do them every 5000 miles. That's more important than what oil you will use. Trust me.
To recap: If you want to stick to MFG spec, then Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 or Amsoil SS 0W-30. Suppose you want good oil easily available, then Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 / Castrol EDGE EP 5W-30. If you think you will beat your car to death, then Castrol EDGE 0W-40. Don't even look at Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. It has a boat load of VI and shears down to 5W-20 faster than you can say "cat-in-a-hat."
Does your owner's manual or warranty book state that the new car warranty is predicated on oil grade?
Many manufacturer's literature makes it sound that way but it's worded that way not for warranty but as a requirement of their CAFE credits. Someone here once posted a CAFE credit letter and it required the manufacturer to strongly discourage the use of any grade other than the one that was used to substantiate the fuel economy.
Volkswagen words it this way for this reason, on my new Tiguan it's all over the book to use only 508 00 oil. But when you take it in for an oil change the dealer will put 504 00 oil with no questions asked. Despite the fear mongering here seen at times the fact still remains it's not about warranty, at least in the US. Other countries may differ.
I think this is more at carelessness or a cavalier attitude than doing what VW requires.
My Engine ran terrible on the 504, but it was a low mass 1.4T not the 2L. It also ran power crippled on the 508. NmAny YT reviewers mentioned the lack of power during review for both engines.
It needed something in between. I Fond the sweet sport - being the "Engine Whisperer" and paying attention,
Okay.
Beat myself to death sure, this is BITOG and that's what we do. How am I going to ruin my engine?
And thank you for your suggestions.
From OM:
Recommended lubricants and capacities:
To help achieve proper engine and powertrain performance and durability, use only lubricants of the proper quality. The correct lubricants also help promote engine efficiencey that results in improved fuel economy. These lubricants and fluids are recommended for use in your vehicle.
Chart. for the 2.5 it calls for 5.6L of SAE 0w-30, API SN Plus/SP or ILSAC GF-6
Dual Clutch transmission fluid is Gear Oil WDGO-1 (GS CALTEX)
and Mixture of antifreeze and water (Ethylene-glycol with phosphate-based coolant for cooling device)
DOT 4 for brakes
Engine oil viscosity (thickness) has an effect on fuel economy and cold weather operating (engine start and engine oil flowability). Lower viscosity engine oils can provide better fuel economy and cold weather performance, however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather. Using oils of any viscosity other than those recommended could result in engine damage. When choosing an oil, consider the range of temperature your vehicle will be operated in before the next oil change. proceed to select the recommended oil viscosity from the chart.
Chart lists 0w-20 for the 1.6 T-GDi from 0F to 120F
Chart lists 0w-30 for the 2.5 T-GDi from -20 to 120F
then it has the API "for gasoline engines" starburst symbol, "An engine oil displaying this API Certification Mark conforms to the international Lubricant Specification Advisory Committee (ILSAC). It is recommended to only use engine oils that uphold this API Certification Mark.
Recommended lubricants and capacities:
To help achieve proper engine and powertrain performance and durability, use only lubricants of the proper quality. The correct lubricants also help promote engine efficiencey that results in improved fuel economy. These lubricants and fluids are recommended for use in your vehicle.
Chart. for the 2.5 it calls for 5.6L of SAE 0w-30, API SN Plus/SP or ILSAC GF-6
Dual Clutch transmission fluid is Gear Oil WDGO-1 (GS CALTEX)
and Mixture of antifreeze and water (Ethylene-glycol with phosphate-based coolant for cooling device)
DOT 4 for brakes
Engine oil viscosity (thickness) has an effect on fuel economy and cold weather operating (engine start and engine oil flowability). Lower viscosity engine oils can provide better fuel economy and cold weather performance, however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather. Using oils of any viscosity other than those recommended could result in engine damage. When choosing an oil, consider the range of temperature your vehicle will be operated in before the next oil change. proceed to select the recommended oil viscosity from the chart.
Chart lists 0w-20 for the 1.6 T-GDi from 0F to 120F
Chart lists 0w-30 for the 2.5 T-GDi from -20 to 120F
then it has the API "for gasoline engines" starburst symbol, "An engine oil displaying this API Certification Mark conforms to the international Lubricant Specification Advisory Committee (ILSAC). It is recommended to only use engine oils that uphold this API Certification Mark.
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D
Deleted member 89374
Some oils worth looking at:
Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30, Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 (very nice HTHS) and Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-40.
That Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 should be right up your alley. I mean it's used in Turbo Charged Porsche vehicles with Direct Injection.
If you want something easily available, go to Castrol EDGE 0W-40. It's got some certifications that your average 10W-30, like Porsche A40. This oil is used in Turbo Charged Direct Injection engines as well.
Get yourself a Craftsman torque wrench (20-100 ft-lb) and a Husky inch-lb torque wrench as well. The filter housing is torqued to 20 ft-lb. Any less than that and you get an oil leak. Any more and you crack it. The little plastic bolt is torqued to 5 Nm (3.7~4 ft-lb). Get yourself a Votex drain plug from here. I would order two because the threads don't always match perfectly. Or stick with the stock plug, your choice. I like them, they remove iron particles from oil. You can find them here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SMPN7B3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The drain plug is torqued to 32 ft-lb. Don't go over that. Test your torque wrench on something to make sure they click before you work on your car with them.
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Yes and you know what that means, right? Especially in light of the earlier statement "however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather".
No engine is damaged by any SAE grade higher than what is allowed, unless the winter rating is so inappropriate for the starting conditions that it cannot be pumped. Oils that are too thin at operating temperature can cause damage but no SAE grade is too thick.
And as far as the API certification, that is a minimum requirement.
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