Where did you find a K5 GT? All dealers I’ve ever checked have
GT Line, not GT.
As far as that goes, no Hyundai dealers ever have Sonata N Line.
GT Line, not GT.
As far as that goes, no Hyundai dealers ever have Sonata N Line.
Kia K5 GT oil suggestions
- Thread starter SilverFusion2010
- Start date
Langdale Kia in Valdosta GA found one for me and had it shipped in.
So the 5w-30 euro oils all look good in terms of protection, but some don't meet SN or SP, (because they exceed the zddp limit I think) so I can't use them.
EDIT
If anyone has documentation showing that Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-30 meets API SN+ or SP please share. The Pennzoil website only shows API SN approval
EDIT
If anyone has documentation showing that Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-30 meets API SN+ or SP please share. The Pennzoil website only shows API SN approval
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Smart to go with ANY 30 grade synthetic oil with an HTHS 3.5+. Being a turbo, I'd recommend premium fuel always. And, until more is known about the 2.5 theta-iii(smartstream) engines, I'd lean toward severe service intervals if the car is a keeper, regardless of the grade/brand of oil chosen.
I think that it would be interesting to get some UOA data to see if your driving style will have oil diluted with fuel.
ZDDP prevents LSPI and so SN/SP greenies can go stick it.
HyundaiKia make great engines
www.motorbiscuit.com
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2.5T sure is sweet but your are now officially doing unpaid R&D engine testing for Hyundai/Kia. I doubt any oil will solve a manufacturing defect from this automaker. And, I'd definitely recommend an early filter change/rinse!
Another option is to stick with the SP 0w30 oil, you know for warranty log book/receipt happiness, and simple add a bottle of 'honey' at each interval. The sump holds plenty of oil and no-one will notice a pint of STP synthetic, or BG MOA, or a full quart of Mobil1 or Redline 20w50.
I think that it would be interesting to get some UOA data to see if your driving style will have oil diluted with fuel.
ZDDP prevents LSPI and so SN/SP greenies can go stick it.
HyundaiKia make great engines
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www.motorbiscuit.com
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Kia Sorento Recall: Engine Crankshaft Fails Causing Engine To Stall
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repairpal.com
2.5T sure is sweet but your are now officially doing unpaid R&D engine testing for Hyundai/Kia. I doubt any oil will solve a manufacturing defect from this automaker. And, I'd definitely recommend an early filter change/rinse!
Another option is to stick with the SP 0w30 oil, you know for warranty log book/receipt happiness, and simple add a bottle of 'honey' at each interval. The sump holds plenty of oil and no-one will notice a pint of STP synthetic, or BG MOA, or a full quart of Mobil1 or Redline 20w50.
A comment to your first statement, Sometimes....................... You and I both have one of the better motors Hyundai/Kia makes, almost all other Hyundai/kia non-turbo motors made by the auto maker have metallurgy problems. The hypereutectic pistons in the turbo motors are the correct hardness as not to galling up like he soft pistons of the non turbo motors. 4.5 billion dollar lost because of incorrect piston and bearing metallurgy choice. By the worlds largest metals company. 10 years and running. I know the OP N-Line 2.5 will live a long life, I just want to see how the naturally aspirated 2.5 is going to last. It would last if it used hypereutectic pistons like the turbos, but I could see Hyundai using the same soft piston metallurgy they have been using for the past 10 years JUST so the top Hyundai execs with the engine rebuilding companies can embezzle money buy feeding their privately held engine businesses with warranty Hyundai/Kia motors. You just can't screw up 10 years AND RUNNING with out trying to do it.
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In my Hyundai turbo, I ran Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 for awhile with good luck, I have switched to Redline Performance Euro 5w-30 and am really happy with this oil. It is pricey though. I dump at 3,500 to 3,750.
I'd be surprised if it doesn't, the PP Euro 5w40 is SN Plus. Website is likely behind, typical Shell shenanigans, if you happen to see some newer stock on the shelf somewhere I'd bet it's SN Plus.
The newer QSUD Euro 5w40 is SN Plus as well, I know you're looking for a 30 grade but that definitely seems to be the way Shell is going at the moment with Euro oils.
According to this PDS that’s a year old the 5W-40 is SP.
The Quaker State version is also SP.
How did you determine that the Red line is better and why do you replace so soon? I have it in my car and Red Line said 10k is acceptable, I will only go 5k since mine is sever service.
My car seems to burn less with Red line vs royal purple. So going to stick with it for now and experiment with other less expensive/easier to get oil till I find something with similar burn rate
wemay
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Our 2.0T doesn't burn any noticeable oil. Early on (first 150K mi) it mostly used VSP 5W30. Now it gets M1HM 10w30, any SOPUS 5w30 and the occasional euro spec'd oil. So far so good. The OCI has always been 3K miles / 6 months.
Interesting, the QS Euro 5w40 that Wally's is selling cheap is marked SN Plus. I wonder if Shell is using it as an outlet for slightly older stock?
I know whet you are implying here, but tolerances do impact the allowed clearances in production.
So that net built World Engine with that one rod bearing in the yellow at 3 thousandths could likely dictate the oil Grade and HTHS for safe operation.
High strung?
Implying the motor is high reving and producing a lot of power. It makes peak power before 6000 rpm, probably shifting shortly after that.
Better is just my opinion to my situation and my beliefs. I don't believe in Hyundai's sub standard choice on recommend oil choice for my driving style and use case. I get very little fuel dilution as per my very controversial Redline post. As a Hyundai owner who had a damaged motor with Hyundai's "ongoing (10 years and going) bad choice of soft piston and bearing metallurgy choice" on a 14,000 mile engine in a 2013 Elantra GT. I wanted an oil with Ester as it's polarity is metal loving, to stay on my piston skirts on a later start up, even though all late Hyundai turbos have hypereutectic pistons. I always run my car 3-4 minutes before driving it ( even in the summer) because I have seen a good # of Hyundai pistons with rock wear. I myself am not into the short piston move in modern day engines. I give it some time to start the pistons to expand as I run 23 lbs boost, even though I know throttle position = load. Hyundai turbos are hard on oil, and many Hyundai turbo owners who have had other brand turbos has noticed blacker oil sooner. (black doesn't mean bad oil) Whether it is Hyundai's tune, tolerances, or metallurgy choice, Hyundai's appears to soot up their oil faster then most. I am also hard on my turbo as many days when getting to work in the morning you can see me driving around our parking lot in circles for cool down time before shutting down. You know, the tinging exhaust sound from a blazing hot exhaust...ha ha. Redline's Ester gives me a better window into not coking up my turbo on those days. I also want to reduce wear on my cam chain/s, rails and tensioners long term. Yes, I could get more mileage on my oil, but I choose not too. I also tow a mid size boat for this sized car.
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Literary horse racing metaphor
I'll update when I dump the factory fill. I haven't quite made it to 1k miles yet so I've got a little bit. I'm running premium and the oil is still honey colored. It is also halfway between the H and L marks on the dipstick, which is a cable, not a stick.
The factory tune for 87 just about has to be running a real rich mix under boost, which would make more soot, so I can believe they soot up the oil faster.
Driving style has been about 3/4 boring city commute and 1/4 giving her the beans and having fun.
I don't care what they spec to tweak their overall cost of ownership numbers, premium is a great choice for any turbo IMO.
I'm going to try to run some fuel comparisons after the break-in is done. I want to compare the mpg and see if the oil is affected by dilution and/or soot. For now though... I'm having fun.
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