It never fails.... oil pan drain plug threads stripped out by mechanic.

Why not pursue something like a Timesert? I did one on an aluminum pan in a Freestyle (Ford 500) and it was great. And you get steel threads for the future.

If it was a Jasper engine, do they reuse oil pans? If so, previous history unknown!
 
redhat said:
Here is what they say about oil filter threads.
Click to expand...
Have to wonder how many places are in a semi-rush and don't pay attention to the 2nd stud option and just run with the pre-installed one ? I guess worst case is the filter won't thread on and they realize it then.
 
I'm sorry for your sake this happened; but "sorry" doesn't fix anything. I have used Helicoils before to repair threads on cylinder heads and they worked just fine. The mere existence of this thread reminds me that I'm NOT too OCD to do my own oil changes and use an inch-pound torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to factory spec. I have confidence you'll fix it. I would hope you've already made your last visit to this shop.
 
I watched a video about the Eco-Plug (the video was posted by Eco-Plug). It states to thread it into the existing pan threads.

I don't have any pan threads left.... they're all gone. They were all jerked out of the pan.

I'm not sure if it will be of any help at this point.
 
Just as I suspected. A 2004 Chevrolet Silverado takes the exact same drain plug as my Buick LeSabre.

GM 11562588

That is the best oil drain plug I have ever experienced. When I tighten it, it comes to an abrupt stop. There is no way to over tighten it unless I got a 3 foot long breaker bar. I use a simple box end wrench. It gets the drain plug as tight as it will go without any worries whatsoever of over tightening it. I pull on the wrench to break the drain plug loose and push on the wrench to tighten the drain plug. I even put my whole shoulder into pushing on the wrench without fear of over tightening the drain plug in any way. Why? Because like a said, the drain plug comes to an abrupt stop when rotating it clockwise. There is no mushy feel. Quite the opposite. It's a solid tight feel.

XBM1315A

With the design of that GM drain plug and the oil pan, somebody would have to be a major idiot to strip the threads out. I can't see how they could do it unless they were using a powerful impact wrench and keeping their finger on the trigger forever until the threads pulled out.
 
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Ordered a new pan and gasket from Advance Auto Parts. The pan was tossed loose into a box, along with the pan gasket. There was no packaging to protect either one, whatsoever.

The box is crushed, has three holes in it, and the pan gasket is now "S" shaped. No idea if the pan is damaged or cracked, but it clearly had a rough ride.

Will now have to drive 90 miles round-trip to pick up replacement parts at the nearest Advance brick and mortar that has them in stock.

I'm getting a feeling that some higher power is telling me that it is time to get rid of this truck...
 
Oil pans are a pretty ‘solid’ item…they should crack, and if they do, you can see it…maybe you can get the gasket closer so you don’t have to make a huge trip..,?
 
Here's the high quality delivery image that UPS provided:

1696281298773.png

Even in a picture that crappy, one hole in the side of the box is visible, and that it isn't taped shut anymore on the top.

They clearly need to be paid even more.
 
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My son purchases a 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk and I changed the oil for him at 2000 actual miles. The oil plug was on so tight I had to take it to a reputable shop and have them remove the oil plug and fill it with oil. Sometimes things don't go the way you want and that's the reason I change oil myself. I am not sure your mechanic is to blame since it sounds like there are other factors involved with the replacement engine etc.
 
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It could have been a messed up threaded hole in the used pan that jasper put on in the first place, or just worn to the place that the next few loosen tighten sequences would strip it out. Jasper reuses all the junk. They are known for that.
 
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mrsilv04 said:
The pan was tossed loose into a box, along with the pan gasket. There was no packaging to protect either one, whatsoever.

The box is crushed, has three holes in it, and the pan gasket is now "S" shaped. No idea if the pan is damaged or cracked, but it clearly had a rough ride.
Click to expand...
Clearly AAP is the one to blame here, not UPS.
 
Also aluminum galls in weird ways, but once it starts it sometimes won't release without wiping the entirety of threads to the point of being useless.

I feel the shop should have been more apologetic -- or at least sympathetic -- but I'm not sure I'd assume the blame if I were the shop. I would, however, offer to repair it at reduced cost. Still not sure why the shop won't consider a coil or Timesert. This is one of those stories that doesn't totally make sense....
 
that goes to show you , that even the spliest jobs can get __ucked up , if given to the right person
totally uncalled for , that would be the last time I ever talked to anyone from that shop
I have a 2003 silverado , that i have always changed the oil on , threads are like new in that pan , if that happened to me , i would have surely blown a gasket
 
Oil drain plug threads on Gen 3/4 LS oil pans are not easily stripped as they have a steel thread insert from the factory, It would take ALOT to pull the insert out of the pan., Likely more than the drain plug threads could take. In fact I can't recall ever seeing the insert pulled out on a Gen 3/4 truck pan.

My question is....Did the steel insert pull out? Or was this pan previously repaired, Meaning oversize drain plug & no insert.....After all it is a Jasper reman.

Just so happen to have a 2003 Gen 3 pan in my wash cabinet, Here's some pics of the insert. I'd like to see the machine that installs the insert as you can see it rolled up some aluminum on the back side.

fSuTUir.jpg

raeBRB9.jpg

rQGgr38.jpg
 
redhat said:
Besides Oil Pan Gasket, you may need the oil plate block off gasket that goes on the side of the pan by the oil filter. Tons of LS have block off plates, some trucks do have oil cooler lines that bolt here.

Beyond that, you should be good. Nothing else is really touched.

I am curious if the new pan will take a metric filter or the standard SAE. I've seen some GMT800/Gen III LS truck motors with metric filter and my only figuring what that it was either a replacement pan from the aftermarket or someone put a pan from a Gen IV truck motor on.
Click to expand...

DO NOT run PF46/PF61 style filters on oil pans without a built-in bypass valve. Updated GM replacement pans all take the PF48/PF63 filter with a built-in bypass.
 
That really sucks and stories like this is why I still change my own oil. I've been changing oil for around 38 years and knock on wood, have never stripped out the oil pan threads on any vehicle.
 
you said Jasper engine #3. that might be a clue why these guys dont want to feel responsible for it.

FWIW there are ways to repair oil drain pan plugs, in fact there are kits available
 
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MSCH said:
you said Jasper engine #3. that might be a clue why these guys dont want to feel responsible for it.

FWIW there are ways to repair oil drain pan plugs, in fact there are kits available
Click to expand...
Why is it my fault that Jasper has bad quality control? First Jasper rebuild had a collapsed lifter, and the second one had a bad head/bad head gasket and was putting coolant in the oil.
 
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