https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...IhVArpg9Dfog_66LENY87MsyUq0PKRqUaAmk5EALw_wcB
I might have tried something like this before I replaced the pan.
I might have tried something like this before I replaced the pan.
It never fails.... oil pan drain plug threads stripped out by mechanic.
- Thread starter mrsilv04
- Start date
Have to wonder how many places are in a semi-rush and don't pay attention to the 2nd stud option and just run with the pre-installed one ? I guess worst case is the filter won't thread on and they realize it then.
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2014
- Messages
- 1,187
I'm sorry for your sake this happened; but "sorry" doesn't fix anything. I have used Helicoils before to repair threads on cylinder heads and they worked just fine. The mere existence of this thread reminds me that I'm NOT too OCD to do my own oil changes and use an inch-pound torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to factory spec. I have confidence you'll fix it. I would hope you've already made your last visit to this shop.
I watched a video about the Eco-Plug (the video was posted by Eco-Plug). It states to thread it into the existing pan threads.
I don't have any pan threads left.... they're all gone. They were all jerked out of the pan.
I'm not sure if it will be of any help at this point.
I don't have any pan threads left.... they're all gone. They were all jerked out of the pan.
I'm not sure if it will be of any help at this point.
Just as I suspected. A 2004 Chevrolet Silverado takes the exact same drain plug as my Buick LeSabre.
GM 11562588
That is the best oil drain plug I have ever experienced. When I tighten it, it comes to an abrupt stop. There is no way to over tighten it unless I got a 3 foot long breaker bar. I use a simple box end wrench. It gets the drain plug as tight as it will go without any worries whatsoever of over tightening it. I pull on the wrench to break the drain plug loose and push on the wrench to tighten the drain plug. I even put my whole shoulder into pushing on the wrench without fear of over tightening the drain plug in any way. Why? Because like a said, the drain plug comes to an abrupt stop when rotating it clockwise. There is no mushy feel. Quite the opposite. It's a solid tight feel.
XBM1315A
With the design of that GM drain plug and the oil pan, somebody would have to be a major idiot to strip the threads out. I can't see how they could do it unless they were using a powerful impact wrench and keeping their finger on the trigger forever until the threads pulled out.
GM 11562588
That is the best oil drain plug I have ever experienced. When I tighten it, it comes to an abrupt stop. There is no way to over tighten it unless I got a 3 foot long breaker bar. I use a simple box end wrench. It gets the drain plug as tight as it will go without any worries whatsoever of over tightening it. I pull on the wrench to break the drain plug loose and push on the wrench to tighten the drain plug. I even put my whole shoulder into pushing on the wrench without fear of over tightening the drain plug in any way. Why? Because like a said, the drain plug comes to an abrupt stop when rotating it clockwise. There is no mushy feel. Quite the opposite. It's a solid tight feel.
XBM1315A
With the design of that GM drain plug and the oil pan, somebody would have to be a major idiot to strip the threads out. I can't see how they could do it unless they were using a powerful impact wrench and keeping their finger on the trigger forever until the threads pulled out.
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Ordered a new pan and gasket from Advance Auto Parts. The pan was tossed loose into a box, along with the pan gasket. There was no packaging to protect either one, whatsoever.
The box is crushed, has three holes in it, and the pan gasket is now "S" shaped. No idea if the pan is damaged or cracked, but it clearly had a rough ride.
Will now have to drive 90 miles round-trip to pick up replacement parts at the nearest Advance brick and mortar that has them in stock.
I'm getting a feeling that some higher power is telling me that it is time to get rid of this truck...
The box is crushed, has three holes in it, and the pan gasket is now "S" shaped. No idea if the pan is damaged or cracked, but it clearly had a rough ride.
Will now have to drive 90 miles round-trip to pick up replacement parts at the nearest Advance brick and mortar that has them in stock.
I'm getting a feeling that some higher power is telling me that it is time to get rid of this truck...
Here's the high quality delivery image that UPS provided:
Even in a picture that crappy, one hole in the side of the box is visible, and that it isn't taped shut anymore on the top.
They clearly need to be paid even more.
Even in a picture that crappy, one hole in the side of the box is visible, and that it isn't taped shut anymore on the top.
They clearly need to be paid even more.
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My son purchases a 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk and I changed the oil for him at 2000 actual miles. The oil plug was on so tight I had to take it to a reputable shop and have them remove the oil plug and fill it with oil. Sometimes things don't go the way you want and that's the reason I change oil myself. I am not sure your mechanic is to blame since it sounds like there are other factors involved with the replacement engine etc.
It could have been a messed up threaded hole in the used pan that jasper put on in the first place, or just worn to the place that the next few loosen tighten sequences would strip it out. Jasper reuses all the junk. They are known for that.
Clearly AAP is the one to blame here, not UPS.
Also aluminum galls in weird ways, but once it starts it sometimes won't release without wiping the entirety of threads to the point of being useless.
I feel the shop should have been more apologetic -- or at least sympathetic -- but I'm not sure I'd assume the blame if I were the shop. I would, however, offer to repair it at reduced cost. Still not sure why the shop won't consider a coil or Timesert. This is one of those stories that doesn't totally make sense....
I feel the shop should have been more apologetic -- or at least sympathetic -- but I'm not sure I'd assume the blame if I were the shop. I would, however, offer to repair it at reduced cost. Still not sure why the shop won't consider a coil or Timesert. This is one of those stories that doesn't totally make sense....
that goes to show you , that even the spliest jobs can get __ucked up , if given to the right person
totally uncalled for , that would be the last time I ever talked to anyone from that shop
I have a 2003 silverado , that i have always changed the oil on , threads are like new in that pan , if that happened to me , i would have surely blown a gasket
totally uncalled for , that would be the last time I ever talked to anyone from that shop
I have a 2003 silverado , that i have always changed the oil on , threads are like new in that pan , if that happened to me , i would have surely blown a gasket
Oil drain plug threads on Gen 3/4 LS oil pans are not easily stripped as they have a steel thread insert from the factory, It would take ALOT to pull the insert out of the pan., Likely more than the drain plug threads could take. In fact I can't recall ever seeing the insert pulled out on a Gen 3/4 truck pan.
My question is....Did the steel insert pull out? Or was this pan previously repaired, Meaning oversize drain plug & no insert.....After all it is a Jasper reman.
Just so happen to have a 2003 Gen 3 pan in my wash cabinet, Here's some pics of the insert. I'd like to see the machine that installs the insert as you can see it rolled up some aluminum on the back side.
My question is....Did the steel insert pull out? Or was this pan previously repaired, Meaning oversize drain plug & no insert.....After all it is a Jasper reman.
Just so happen to have a 2003 Gen 3 pan in my wash cabinet, Here's some pics of the insert. I'd like to see the machine that installs the insert as you can see it rolled up some aluminum on the back side.
DO NOT run PF46/PF61 style filters on oil pans without a built-in bypass valve. Updated GM replacement pans all take the PF48/PF63 filter with a built-in bypass.
That really sucks and stories like this is why I still change my own oil. I've been changing oil for around 38 years and knock on wood, have never stripped out the oil pan threads on any vehicle.
Why is it my fault that Jasper has bad quality control? First Jasper rebuild had a collapsed lifter, and the second one had a bad head/bad head gasket and was putting coolant in the oil.
Why is it your shop's fault that Jasper has bad quality control?
