Stripped/galled drain plug.. best fix? (Without replacing pan)

[sh40674]

2011 f150 5.0
Changed the oil a few months back and for some time the old plug would always be a little tougher to remove the first few turns then come out, going back in kinda the same. Well a few months ago I pulled the plug out and the threads on the plug were sharp. Obviously it was bad. I couldn't tell 100 percent if the pan was messed up or not (couldn't get the best look but looked ok at least as far as I could see). Got a new plug and it went in just fine all the way. Well changed it tonight before work and it came loose VERY easy. Like it wasn't tight. Wasn't leaking but I was surprised. It could POSSIBLY be because it's the kind with the rubber built into the underside of the head and it was new and just compressed some... took out, Same thing as the old one, except a little tighter. First few turns tight then loose, going in loose then tight the last few. The plug itself looked good. Was running late to work so for some dammed reason I didn't even think of looking at the pan. So I'm going to leave it be for now, but come up the next oil change I'm going to take a close look at everything. Is this a sign of stripped or galled threads in the pan? If so what would be the best fix without removing the pan? I see oversized drain plugs, the kits with the drill, tap and heli-coil, etc... what do you guys recommend? I mean it's holding oil, just want to be prepared if next time is the last time for it

 

[samven]

They sell oversized self tapping drain plugs for just this problem. Find out what size you have now and look in the nearest parts store or Amazon. You will need to be sure you put it in straight and the first time in it will be very tight as it taps new threads.

 

[sh40674]

They sell oversized self tapping drain plugs for just this problem. Find out what size you have now and look in the nearest parts store or Amazon. You will need to be sure you put it in straight and the first time in it will be very tight as it taps new threads.

Question about these... if I went this route, and something happened to the new oversized valve (lost damaged etc)... do I just replace it with another oversized valve of the same size? Assuming once it's cut the threads it's that size

 

[Exhaustgases]

Question about these... if I went this route, and something happened to the new oversized valve (lost damaged etc)... do I just replace it with another oversized valve of the same size? Assuming once it's cut the threads it's that size

Just buy 4 or more of them at the same time, all the same of course. Then you have lots of spares, maybe even a few larger sizes too.
Then your covered and no more worry's. Once you buy something don't always think you will again find the same thing next month or next year.

 

[sh40674]

Just buy 4 or more of them at the same time, all the same of course. Then you have lots of spares, maybe even a few larger sizes too.
Then your covered and no more worry's. Once you buy something don't always think you will again find the same thing next month or next year.

My only thought it if it's self tapping, couldn't taking it out and in over time wear the threads? Do the make non self tapping plugs I could start using the 2nd time around?

 

[billt460]

They sell oversized self tapping drain plugs for just this problem. Find out what size you have now and look in the nearest parts store or Amazon. You will need to be sure you put it in straight and the first time in it will be very tight as it taps new threads.

What about the chips created by the cutting of the new threads?

 

[spasm3]

If i knew the threads were not good, i'd try something like this. They have several thread sizes, check yours to see which you need.

Amazon.com

 

[Trav]

2011 f150 5.0
Changed the oil a few months back and for some time the old plug would always be a little tougher to remove the first few turns then come out, going back in kinda the same. Well a few months ago I pulled the plug out and the threads on the plug were sharp. Obviously it was bad. I couldn't tell 100 percent if the pan was messed up or not (couldn't get the best look but looked ok at least as far as I could see). Got a new plug and it went in just fine all the way. Well changed it tonight before work and it came loose VERY easy. Like it wasn't tight. Wasn't leaking but I was surprised. It could POSSIBLY be because it's the kind with the rubber built into the underside of the head and it was new and just compressed some... took out, Same thing as the old one, except a little tighter. First few turns tight then loose, going in loose then tight the last few. The plug itself looked good. Was running late to work so for some dammed reason I didn't even think of looking at the pan. So I'm going to leave it be for now, but come up the next oil change I'm going to take a close look at everything. Is this a sign of stripped or galled threads in the pan? If so what would be the best fix without removing the pan? I see oversized drain plugs, the kits with the drill, tap and heli-coil, etc... what do you guys recommend? I mean it's holding oil, just want to be prepared if next time is the last time for it

Replace the plug with a Valvomax valve so you never have to remove it again. I your case IIRC it comes with a copper crush washer, I would swap that out for and aluminum one. Tighten but don't over tighten.

M12-1.75 Quick Twist Valve with Stainless Drain Tube Knob

Quick Twist Valve Drain oil in 10 minutes or less with the ValvoMax Quick Twist Valve. The Stainless Steel valve replaces your existing oil drain bolt. Enjoy premium quality that's built to last. No tools, no mess, FAST drain. Each order comes with a valve, steel cap with embedded rubber seal...

www.valvomax.com

 

[billt460]

Replace the plug with a Valvomax valve so you never have to remove it again. I your case IIRC it comes with a copper crush washer, I would swap that out for and aluminum one. Tighten but don't over tighten.

M12-1.75 Quick Twist Valve with Stainless Drain Tube Knob

Quick Twist Valve Drain oil in 10 minutes or less with the ValvoMax Quick Twist Valve. The Stainless Steel valve replaces your existing oil drain bolt. Enjoy premium quality that's built to last. No tools, no mess, FAST drain. Each order comes with a valve, steel cap with embedded rubber seal...

www.valvomax.com

This is the best solution. What wrecks the threads in these things, is constant removal and retorquing. Especially if it's done at most of these "Quick Lube" joints. And most oil pans don't have a lot of threads to bear the torque on. It doesn't take a hell of a lot to strip them.

Many of these kids put drain plugs and filters on too tight because they don't want leaks. Sooner or later they'll strip out. Once you install the Valvomax System, (or any other draining type valve like Fumoto), you never touch it again. So there is nothing to get stripped out.

Just be sure to carry the drain valve in the car in a Zip Lock bag. And explain to the guy how it works. I do my own oil and filter changes, and the Valvomax makes it neat, clean, and easy.

 

[4WD]

This is the best solution. What wrecks the threads in these things, is constant removal and retorquing. Especially if it's done at most of these "Quick Lube" joints. And most oil pans don't have a lot of threads to bear the torque on. It doesn't take a hell of a lot to strip them.

Many of these kids put drain plugs and filters on too tight because they don't want leaks. Sooner or later they'll strip out. Once you install the Valvomax System, (or any other draining type valve like Fumoto), you never touch it again. So there is nothing to get stripped out.

Just be sure to carry the drain valve in the car in a Zip Lock bag. And explain to the guy how it works. I do my own oil and filter changes, and the Valvomax makes it neat, clean, and easy.

Have my first ever dealer oil service/tire rotation as part of an extended warranty - and still installed a Fumoto thinking 12 times with a gorilla.
Well, decided to cut one of the PF63’s out of curiosity - never seen a more over torqued filter in my decades of DIY OCI’s …

 

[doitmyself]

I changed oil on someone's car that had one of these repair plugs:

 

[Kira]

Post #8 shows one brand / type of valve.
I used a Fumoto valve on a neighbor's car with a stripped hole. It worked well.
I am not advocating one over the other.

You do want to be certain of the thread size.

 

[D60]

I've used a Timesert on an '05 Freestyle/500, but that was an Al pan so things were more touchy.

You maintain OEM thread size and get new threads. In the case of an Al pan, double benefit because you get a liner of steel threads.

That said, I might go KISS and just try chasing the pan threads. Get an inexpensive drain plug and try again. I'd probably first use an actual chaser and if that feels like it does nothing, I'd probably go to a true tap (yes, yes, it may cut some metal out, OMG so scary, LIFE GOES ON)

Basically, it sounds like your pan threads are almost good enough so I'd first try to salvage them. But if you don't do all your own oil changes, then never mind

 

[roaniecowpony]

What about the chips created by the cutting of the new threads?

Get a pencil magnet and go around in the hole after tapping it out. After that, I'd just dump a quart of some cheap light viscosity oil through. Put a magnet on the bottom of the pan to leave there, if you're still worried. But the filter will prevent any of it from getting into the main galley.

 

[64bawagon]

Liberally greasing the tap will get the vast majority of the chips.

 

[D60]

I wouldn't worry much about the chips. They'll be caught by the filter or the pickup screen.

But yes, use best practice. A drill bit inherently feeds chips out to you. A 2-flute "gun" tap pushes chips ahead as it's meant for through holes, so you don't want that. A spiral flute tap is spendy but feeds chips out. Or a hand tap with some grease is probably the best, least expensive, readily available option. Hand taps don't really feed chips in either direction, instead just storing them in the voids of the tap (until it clogs).

You could also run a Gold Plug immediately after, but it'd be a bummer if your pan threads damaged a Gold Plug 'cause they're not cheap. They're made in the US by a US machine shop so I like supporting them, however. And while some argue a magnetic drain plug doesn't help, I struggle to see how it can hurt. YMMV

 

[64bawagon]

A standard 4 flute plug tap is all thats needed.

 

[Kurtatron]

As others have mentioned, drain valves are well worth the investment. I have Fumotos on both my cars. I love them so much, any car I purchase that I intend to keep a while gets a valve.

 

[ElectroMechanoMan]

Why doesn’t someone make a repair insert for oil pans? That way, you could continue to use the OEM plug with the same size threads.

 

[Ursatdx]

If the drain plug is not leaking then don't fix it.
I've used teflon tape on the plug threads to add a bit of surface to the adjoining parts.
It also prevents a leak.
When you can no longer tighten the plug to your satisfaction it will be obvious
that the pan is stripped if you are using a new plug.
Only then would I resort to any other measure.

40 years in the quick lube industry and 25 years as an owner.
I've dealt with many a problematic drain plug.