Stripped transmission drain plug

[KrisZ]

Yes. The M10 is stripped.

They you need to go to m12. There is no oversize m10.

 

[Soft Cars]

Yes. The M10 is stripped.

Then you need to go up to M12 right?

 

[cptnsolo77]

Then you need to go up to M12 right?

Oh yes...I misunderstood ya

 

[tblt44]

Teflon tape.
Wrape it around about 5 times

 

[Soft Cars]

Oh yes...I misunderstood ya

If I'm not mistaken, I could be wrong however, but that oversized drain plug I linked to should be threaded M12x1.25.

The question is though is if you have enough "meat" for it to cut into.

 

[cptnsolo77]

Teflon tape.
Wrape it around about 5 times

I will try whatever works. teflon tape to relacing the pan. Thx !

 

[cptnsolo77]

When they changed my transmission oil in Bolivia before shipping my Corvair to me, they tightened the cast iron fill plug so much into the aluminum transmission case that when it got here it did not go into third gear, as the plug was hitting it. After pulling the power pack and discovering this, I put gasket shellac on the male and female threads and inserted the plug to a normal position, watching the inside of the transmission and testing the shift. After letting it set up, I filled the transmission from the top, put the cover on, and reassembled everything.

So depending on how snug the plug is, this might be a solution. But there's have offered several good solutions.

Thank you. The plug is VERY snug. It so snug I wasnt expecting a leak at all. Even when tightening it felt like it has a good bite. Thats why dont want to overtighten it and risk stripping whatever thread is left on the pan.

 

[JHZR2]

You need to pull the pan. Some pans just have a small bit welded in so there isn’t much to drill out and add an insert to.

We had to fix the threads on my brother’s FJZ80 transmission pan. We tapped the minuscule material that was there, and ran a long bolt. It torqued to spec.

Here’s my discussion:

Transmission drain plug woes

This is on a 96 LandCruiser a343 automatic transmission. Dropped the pan and replaced the filter last week. Wanted to do a drain and fill this week. Removed the m10x1.5 drain plug via 14mm bolt head. All seemed fine. Drained out about 6qts. Cleaned it and went to reinstall the plug with a...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[D60]

If you're attempting to go from M10 threads to M12 threads you're asking for an additional 1mm of major dia on a side.

Given that this is a drain plug and not a lower control arm mount or leaf spring eye bolt, you can probably cheat that much just fine.

 

[paulo57509]

I did the pipe sealant tape on a drain plug but it was the plug portion of a Fram Sure Drain; so I wouldn't have to mess with removing the plug again.

 

[The Critic]

Only #3 is an option. Like many steel oil pans, there is a welded nut on the interior of the pan. Generally speaking, you cannot enlarge those holes to install a thread insert - there just isn't enough material to support a thread insert. Thread inserts are best reserved for aluminum pans.

Timesert does make two kits that are specific to metal oil pans (#0765 and #1485), but neither are applicable to this application.

Just wanted to better illustrate this issue. Steel pans are typically of this design:

(Photo from a review in this link: https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-1-...07758604&sprefix=1212c+timeser,aps,249&sr=8-3)

There just isn't enough material to drill and install a thread insert. Supposedly some people have done it successfully, but I am skeptical.