Uncomfortable with Oil Drain Plug Possible Overtightened Torque Need Help

[D60]

Copper's weird, esp on banjo bolts but also on drain plugs. You may have just felt the copper compress a bit more.

Leave it alone for now. If not expensive have an extra drain plug for NEXT time. In many applications the drain plug strips before the pan threads are damaged -- but I can't speak to BMW specifically.

You might also learn the thread pitch and stock a thread chaser and maybe a tap. Next time run the chaser through. If a new plug still doesn't thread in with your fingertips, run the tap through.

Note I may be telling you to spend $ unnecessarily -- it's entirely possible everything is fine next time.

And don't feel bad -- while you maybe messed it up, a Quickie Lube definitely would strip it and pretend nothing happened.

 

[ecotourist]

When I changed the oil on my BMW I always used a torque wrench.

My 528i had an aluminum oil pan and I was concerned that I might strip it. The OEM plug was designed to fracture before the pan stripped. If you fractured the plug, it would start to drip/gush (or something). Not sure why you would use a non OEM brand of oil plug.

 

[Chris142]

Never had an issue. Maybe your wrench was out of spec? I switched my wrx to fumoto but my dad's fleet diesel gets torqued

I actually got my tq wrench Calibrated over this. They still leaked. I personally think it's because we use aftermarket washers,

Now I just hand tighten every one

 

[moonlightblue]

I had a stripped pan bolt forever. Junkyard oil pan. It didn’t leak and I never touched it again. I think I drove that way for like 10 years

I agree with the others that say ditch the 1/2 inch drive ratchet. Use a 3/8ths drive, and if you think your going to over tighten it, use your weaker hand to tighten it. You could find out what the torque spec is then again, don't go nuts tightening it.,,,

So as the bolt has recently been bit overtightened maybe 45 50 NM wont it make sense to loosen it in a day instead of waiting 6-7 months until the next oil change? Or it does not make difference?

 

[Vercingetorix]

So as the bolt has recently been bit overtightened maybe 45 50 NM wont it make sense to loosen it in a day instead of waiting 6-7 months until the next oil change? Or it does not make difference?

If it is stripped, fixing it will require an oil change. You just did that. Deal with it next oil change if it’s not leaking now.

 

[_Will_]

I can be a little ham fisted at times and worry about this, which is why as many have suggested for you, I got a fumoto valve for my car and my wife's. Along with not trying to remember "was this car the 15mm or the 17mm?" and going under with a selection of wrenches, you just pop off the cap and turn the spring loaded lever. Did my first change on her Mazda 3 2.5 two weekends ago and it was quite nice. After you solve whether you damaged your pan threads, this might be a good consideration.

 

[moonlightblue]

If it is stripped, fixing it will require an oil change. You just did that. Deal with it next oil change if it’s not leaking now.

Actually it is about bit less than 45 degree over tighter than what it should be that is how i felt and it is definitely tighter than normal. No leakage since 24 hours and the head stays there.

So at next oil change will it be better to apply wd40 to the copper washer and temporarily loosen just a bit when engine is really cold. and tighten it back so lightly until making the engine hot to drain all oil? Chances to remove it without problem is higher when engine is cold i think is that right?

 

[BigCahuna]

So as the bolt has recently been bit overtightened maybe 45 50 NM wont it make sense to loosen it in a day instead of waiting 6-7 months until the next oil change? Or it does not make difference?

I'm not seeing any point in messing with it if it isn't leaking. Worry about it the next time you change your oil.,,

 

[Vercingetorix]

Actually it is about bit less than 45 degree over tighter than what it should be that is how i felt and it is definitely tighter than normal. No leakage since 24 hours and the head stays there.

So at next oil change will it be better to apply wd40 to the copper washer and temporarily loosen just a bit when engine is really cold. and tighten it back so lightly until making the engine hot to drain all oil? Chances to remove it without problem is higher when engine is cold i think is that right?

Go to the bar. Order 6 shots of whatever your favorite drink is. Relax. Change the oil when it’s due, and preferably when it’s hot. Don’t worry about the rest of it.

 

[D60]

Actually it is about bit less than 45 degree over tighter than what it should be that is how i felt and it is definitely tighter than normal. No leakage since 24 hours and the head stays there.

So at next oil change will it be better to apply wd40 to the copper washer and temporarily loosen just a bit when engine is really cold. and tighten it back so lightly until making the engine hot to drain all oil? Chances to remove it without problem is higher when engine is cold i think is that right?

At the risk of encouraging your over-thinking, is this an aluminum pan? If it's steel, JUST. REMOVE. THE. PLUG.

If it's aluminum and you're REALLY worried, I'd personally do it hot and rip off the BandAid with an impact (like Triton spark plugs). This is likely a waste of time and the difference in temperature of an oil pan won't matter either way.

Go take a Zoloft and relax!

 

[Marcozi]

I think the torques spec is 25nm.

 

[Jeep_Riot]

I once thought I over tightened a drain plug. I worried about it for five months. Turned out it wasn’t over tightened. I worried for nothing.

 

[ecotourist]

I make a card with the required information for tasks I do repeatedly but not often enough to remember the details. For an oil change card (for each vehicle) - Wrench size? Torque? Liters? That way you know what you need to know before you start and don't have to keep looking things up.

And by the way, a quarter turn is (1/4 X 360 =) 90 degrees and not 45 degrees.

 

[moonlightblue]

At the risk of encouraging your over-thinking, is this an aluminum pan? If it's steel, JUST. REMOVE. THE. PLUG.

If it's aluminum and you're REALLY worried, I'd personally do it hot and rip off the BandAid with an impact (like Triton spark plugs). This is likely a waste of time and the difference in temperature of an oil pan won't matter either way.

Go take a Zoloft and relax!

How can I know if the pan is steel or aluminum? It is grey color and looks like alloy i think. Not black painted iron at all. Thanks for trying to comfort me too. Ordered genuine plug for the next oil change from bmw dealership, strange that they change oil of several cars everyday and dont have it. The parts guy also told me that if it was stripped it would leak and recommended me to loosen the bolt at next oil change on a cold engine. Pulling by short strong forces instead of one big force is always better i think

 

[moonlightblue]

I can be a little ham fisted at times and worry about this, which is why as many have suggested for you, I got a fumoto valve for my car and my wife's. Along with not trying to remember "was this car the 15mm or the 17mm?" and going under with a selection of wrenches, you just pop off the cap and turn the spring loaded lever. Did my first change on her Mazda 3 2.5 two weekends ago and it was quite nice. After you solve whether you damaged your pan threads, this might be a good consideration.

Thank you i cant say your wrong

 

[moonlightblue]

I once thought I over tightened a drain plug. I worried about it for five months. Turned out it wasn’t over tightened. I worried for nothing.

Thank you for sharing your experience and trying to comfort me. This forum is full with helpful people and am happy to be here. As lots of people already cared about the situation i will not forget this and tell the result at next oil change and it ll be useful info for others to know their limits while tightening the oil plug which is normally 2 times tick tock type mid or semi gently tightening force with 1/2 and a bit more with 3/8.

 

[moonlightblue]

I make a card with the required information for tasks I do repeatedly but not often enough to remember the details. For an oil change card (for each vehicle) - Wrench size? Torque? Liters? That way you know what you need to know before you start and don't have to keep looking things up.

And by the way, a quarter turn is (1/4 X 360 =) 90 degrees and not 45 degrees.

That is smart. Yes you are right so it is between 45 and 90 degree extra but closer to 45 degree I believe. I felt the tight limit of bolt and stopped immediately.

 

[crashz]

I do this too. Over think it. Don't worry. Drive the car. Change the oil on the next interval as normal and after is drained, test fit the new oil plug. If it screws in by using your fingers with no binding all the way, its absolutely fine. Even if it has a bit if a rough spot, its still fine.

I've developed a sense of this over the years, but occasionally I feel like I under or over tighten. Haven't had much of an issue. For the future, use a cheap 3/8" torque wrench and you're good.

Plastic capped oil filter housings are a different story. I'm extra careful on these primarily because I don't have a sense of how easy these are to damage.

 

[D60]

How can I know if the pan is steel or aluminum? It is grey color and looks like alloy i think. Not black painted iron at all. Thanks for trying to comfort me too. Ordered genuine plug for the next oil change from bmw dealership, strange that they change oil of several cars everyday and dont have it. The parts guy also told me that if it was stripped it would leak and recommended me to loosen the bolt at next oil change on a cold engine. Pulling by short strong forces instead of one big force is always better i think

Fe = Iron as in ferrous = magnetic

Aluminum is not magnetic Most stainless is also not magnetic (think fridge doors and magnets) but I'd say it's EXTREMELY unlikely it's stainless.

 

[moonlightblue]

I do this too. Over think it. Don't worry. Drive the car. Change the oil on the next interval as normal and after is drained, test fit the new oil plug. If it screws in by using your fingers with no binding all the way, its absolutely fine. Even if it has a bit if a rough spot, its still fine.

I've developed a sense of this over the years, but occasionally I feel like I under or over tighten. Haven't had much of an issue. For the future, use a cheap 3/8" torque wrench and you're good.

Plastic capped oil filter housings are a different story. I'm extra careful on these primarily because I don't have a sense of how easy these are to damage.

Actually I change oil and also do several kinds of detailed risky repairs since 2009. i ve been changing oil every 6 months for 2 and some time ago it was for even 3 cars and i also started to have worries recently.

Your right at tightening oil plug 3/8 is vest but when loosening 1/2 is best. Or you will tighten with 1/2 with ONLY 2 semi gentle pulls at 2. pull washer gets crushed and in that case of using 1/2 you should never try to confirm whether you tightened enough by pulling furter which was my mistake. We will see what happens at next oil change. I will definitely lubricate the bolt head and copper washer with wd40 while hot and a day later when engine is cold i will try to temporarily loosen it and i will see..whatever happened happened situation.