Oil Pan Crush Washer Failure with pics

[BobsArmory]

So about a month ago I changed the oil in my GMC & had a very slow leak around the drain plug. I figured it was because I reused the aluminium crush washer too many times so I got smart and hooked up the shop vac to the oil fill port on the engine to create some vacuum in the crankcase removed the plug and put a new crush washer on. Amazingly I didn't lose much oil with the shop vac trick.

Couple days later I noticed the same thing was happening with the new crush washer so I ordered rubber/steel washers. Got the new washers in today and repeated the same trick and installed the new rubber/steel style.

You can see the amount of deformation the oil pan created on the aluminium crush washer (left side) compared to the center one. Maybe that's why the factory drain plug had an integrated o ring.

Anyone else have a similar experience?
Here is hoping the rubber/steel works!

 

[benjamming]

What’s the torque spec for the correct drain plug with o-ring?
What happened to the original drain plug?

 

[BobsArmory]

What’s the torque spec for the correct drain plug with o-ring?
What happened to the original drain plug?

the factory plug was just barley past snug. Problem was the the original was made with soft metal with shallow shoulders and just didn't last

 

[Donald]

I have used the metal and rubber one. The brand was Oil-Tite I think. Worked very well. It's many uses but not unlimited.

PSD has drain plug with o-ring which is one of the best oil drain plugs I have seen.

Or a Fumoto or Valvomax drain valve

 

[clinebarger]

24233099 is what I'm coming up with, This very same drain plug was used on '96-'02 4L60E & 4L80E transmissions....The hex head is very short & a socket/wrench will cam off really easy!! Has a larger than normal flange & captured gasket.

I don't know of a exact replacement for this plug that has a more robust hex, I have plug welded a 1/2 Nut (3/4" Hex) on many 4L trans plugs. Remove the rubber gasket before welding.

Most 4L60E & some 4L80E will accept a factory LS oil drain plug & not leak....Part# 11562588, Smaller diameter flange is the reason some leak.

 

[BobsArmory]

24233099 is what I'm coming up with, This very same drain plug was used on '96-'02 4L60E & 4L80E transmissions....The hex head is very short & a socket/wrench will cam off really easy!! Has a larger than normal flange & captured gasket.

That's the one. Not a very good design.

 

[TomYoung]

the factory plug was just barley past snug. Problem was the the original was made with soft metal with shallow shoulders and just didn't last

I don’t mean to be a wiseguy, but “barely past snug” is not really a torque spec. Additionally, it is pretty apparent to me that the washer on the left in the picture was not usable, and it was way, way overtorqued as an approach to making it work. Hopefully the oil pan was not damaged. I would address this with a factory plug, washer, the correct torque setting achieved with a calibrated torque wrench. If that doesn’t work, maybe a Fumoto valve secured by Loctite or your favorite goop. Good luck.

 

[BobsArmory]

I don’t mean to be a wiseguy, but “barely past snug” is not really a torque spec.

I understand. I was going by how tight the plug was after the free Dealership oil change.

Additionally, it is pretty apparent to me that the washer on the left in the picture was not usable, and it was way, way overtorqued as an approach to making it work.

I should have expanded on the original post but I was in a time crunch. I didn't torque the bolt down very hard the first time. It was leaking so I added a little more torque. Still leaked so I tried more with no success, that's why it looks like it does. The oil pan is fine. BTW the new rubber/steel washer seems to be working like a charm.

 

[TomYoung]

I understand. I was going by how tight the plug was after the free Dealership oil change.


I should have expanded on the original post but I was in a time crunch. I didn't torque the bolt down very hard the first time. It was leaking so I added a little more torque. Still leaked so I tried more with no success, that's why it looks like it does. The oil pan is fine. BTW the new rubber/steel washer seems to be working like a charm.

Glad it worked out. Will you be replacing washers and torquing moving forward?

 

[BobsArmory]

I have a 50 pack of those rubber/steel washers so I should be able to use a new one every OCI for the rest of my life as long as the rubber doesn't dry rot from age.

Personally I don't feel the need to put a torque wrench on my drain plugs. But I won't dig my heels in and say I never will.

 

[SC Maintenance]

If the one you have doesn't work out - maybe try a copper crush washer?

Depending on diameter - you could also try one of the Toyota ones with the blue felt on both sides. Those seem to work well.

FWIW - I don't believe I have ever used a torque wrench on a drain plug.

 

[oilboy123]

I put an aluminum crush washer when installing a Valvomax on my old truck. It leaked, and was torqued. Replaced it with a new crush washer aluminum. Did not leak the second time, torqued again.