JHZR2
Staff member
Id personally pull a sample and send it for UOA to see if there is anything special in it. If so, keep it for a little longer or until the OM mandated first change (if the first isn't full mileage). If not, do when you please.
IS350 - Dump the factory fill ?
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Lexus knows what they are doing, follow the FSM.
Do you see blown up Lexus on the side of the road because I can assure you most owners won't bring them back to the dealership until after 10k.
Do you see blown up Lexus on the side of the road because I can assure you most owners won't bring them back to the dealership until after 10k.
I have never changed the factory fill early. EVER.
As of this evening, none of my engines have blown up or sustained severe damage.
Changing FF early is a waste. Just my opinion.
As of this evening, none of my engines have blown up or sustained severe damage.
Changing FF early is a waste. Just my opinion.
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Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
You are going to get many opinions on this. Personally? I see oil as CHEAP compared to the cost of a motor and would never go 10k on oil no matter what. I still struggle with this, "lets get every ounce of life out of the $10 a qt oil" mentality. That engine costs $5000 or more, So to me??? I change Oil WWWAAAYYY for often. Yeah I maybe "wasting" money to some, but as mentioned, Oil is cheap compared to a new motor, or new cams, or new anything in that engine compartment.
I understand the belief that motor oil is "contaminated" and that frequent oil changes reduce the level of contamination in the long haul. However, modern motor oil has been heavily formulated to counteract whatever is in the oil. Not only that, but metal wear has been shown to be higher for a certain amount of use immediately after an oil change because of the time/heat/pressure it takes for the antiwear additives to activate. In some ways, putting the oil in this state more often might be somewhat detrimental to engine life. Of course it's a balance of replacing the oil before it's unsuitable to protect the engine while not doing it so often that you're bypassing the benefits of the oil itself.
I think that is yet to be proven. My family history of cars oil has been changed frequently and some older family cars pushing over 300k miles have had oil changed every 3k miles.
To maximize your dollar to extend drain intervals may be the prerogative of some on this forum but not everyone.
Even in racing I changed the oil in my evos every week. After 60k miles and 5yrs of track use the parts were still within factory spec. That's enough proof for me.
To each their own. Oil is cheap. I change it often.
Jeff
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
You are going to get many opinions on this. Personally? I see oil as CHEAP compared to the cost of a motor and would never go 10k on oil no matter what. I still struggle with this, "lets get every ounce of life out of the $10 a qt oil" mentality. That engine costs $5000 or more, So to me??? I change Oil WWWAAAYYY for often. Yeah I maybe "wasting" money to some, but as mentioned, Oil is cheap compared to a new motor, or new cams, or new anything in that engine compartment.
I understand the belief that motor oil is "contaminated" and that frequent oil changes reduce the level of contamination in the long haul. However, modern motor oil has been heavily formulated to counteract whatever is in the oil. Not only that, but metal wear has been shown to be higher for a certain amount of use immediately after an oil change because of the time/heat/pressure it takes for the antiwear additives to activate. In some ways, putting the oil in this state more often might be somewhat detrimental to engine life. Of course it's a balance of replacing the oil before it's unsuitable to protect the engine while not doing it so often that you're bypassing the benefits of the oil itself.
I think that is yet to be proven. My family history of cars oil has been changed frequently and some older family cars pushing over 300k miles have had oil changed every 3k miles.
To maximize your dollar to extend drain intervals may be the prerogative of some on this forum but not everyone.
Even in racing I changed the oil in my evos every week. After 60k miles and 5yrs of track use the parts were still within factory spec. That's enough proof for me.
To each their own. Oil is cheap. I change it often.
Jeff
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Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Lexus knows what they are doing, follow the FSM.
Do you see blown up Lexus on the side of the road because I can assure you most owners won't bring them back to the dealership until after 10k.
My Dad has changed the oil in my Mom's 2001 IS300 every 3k with M1.12 years later and 220k miles later the last time my folks took the car to lexus was for a timing belt service where the mechanic stated "this car with 220k feels peppier than any IS300 I have driven. Heck I think it would keep up with a new one"
10k on oil? Sure you can. I just wouldn't.
Jeff
Lexus knows what they are doing, follow the FSM.
Do you see blown up Lexus on the side of the road because I can assure you most owners won't bring them back to the dealership until after 10k.
My Dad has changed the oil in my Mom's 2001 IS300 every 3k with M1.12 years later and 220k miles later the last time my folks took the car to lexus was for a timing belt service where the mechanic stated "this car with 220k feels peppier than any IS300 I have driven. Heck I think it would keep up with a new one"
10k on oil? Sure you can. I just wouldn't.
Jeff
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The bottom line really is this. If you leased it... go 10k on oil. Since you will trade it later who cares what happens. If you spent the $$$ and bought it? Change it every 5k.
I will leave it at that.
Jeff
I will leave it at that.
Jeff
Would doing a UAO at 5K be possible with a TBN ? That might help a lot of people who have grappled with early changes. Just leave the oil in for the sample and let the results decide.
The best reason to run the ff per owner's manual is not to be frugal and wring every penny of use out of the oil - - rather it's because aged oil does a better job of lubricating the engine and protecting against wear than fresh, "green" oil. http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/.
There's a guy over on one of the bmw diesel forums who is in the process of verifying the SAE study by drawing a sample of oil thru the dipstick and sending it off for uoa's. IIRC, so far he's done this at 1k, 3k, 5k, 9k miles. At the 9k uoa he's found that 40% of the total iron wear in the oil occurred in the first 1000 mi. It would seem to confirm the SAE findings that it takes a couple thousand miles for the fresh oil to get its chemical stuff together in one bag. So the aged oil is like liquid gold. Don't change it before the factory says to do so. And no, in my opinion, you don't need to dump the ff early in order to "wash out" wear metals.
There's a guy over on one of the bmw diesel forums who is in the process of verifying the SAE study by drawing a sample of oil thru the dipstick and sending it off for uoa's. IIRC, so far he's done this at 1k, 3k, 5k, 9k miles. At the 9k uoa he's found that 40% of the total iron wear in the oil occurred in the first 1000 mi. It would seem to confirm the SAE findings that it takes a couple thousand miles for the fresh oil to get its chemical stuff together in one bag. So the aged oil is like liquid gold. Don't change it before the factory says to do so. And no, in my opinion, you don't need to dump the ff early in order to "wash out" wear metals.
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Originally Posted By: m6pwr
The best reason to run the ff per owner's manual is not to be frugal and wring every penny of use out of the oil - - rather it's because aged oil does a better job of lubricating the engine and protecting against wear than fresh, "green" oil. http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/.
There's a guy over on one of the bmw diesel forums who is in the process of verifying the SAE study by drawing a sample of oil thru the dipstick and sending it off for uoa's. IIRC, so far he's done this at 1k, 3k, 5k, 9k miles. At the 9k uoa he's found that 40% of the total iron wear in the oil occurred in the first 1000 mi. It would seem to confirm the SAE findings that it takes a couple thousand miles for the fresh oil to get its chemical stuff together in one bag. So the aged oil is like liquid gold. Don't change it before the factory says to do so. And no, in my opinion, you don't need to dump the ff early in order to "wash out" wear metals.
I have no doubt that the study is correct. A few years ago I remember one Edward Kollin (then head of Exxon's lubricants and fuels testing lab) noted that wear was highest around the initial 1000 miles after an oil change. He said it almost as an aside, but it did leave an impression on me. However, I'm wondering if the conclusions of this guy's personal test might be off. First of all, there is some iron present in some motor oils. Also - there's always residual oil after every oil change, so sending a sample of the oil right after the change might be helpful to set a baseline for the starting point to establish additional iron wear.
Of course we may just be arguing about things that make little difference in the grand scheme of things. I've heard of people who have had engines last 300K miles on nothing but the manufacturer's standard oil change period as well as those doing it every 3000 miles. I almost religiously changed the oil on my dad's Buick Regal every 3000 miles (the severe service interval) with various 10W-30s, and it burned a quart every 1000 miles after about 140K miles on the odo, and smelled like it when I trailed the car. The biggest issue may not be frequent or infrequent oil changes, but regular changes. It's the neglected car that might go 15,000 miles on the same oil or where the level went down well below the min line. Going beyond the limits where the antiwear additives are depleted, the detergent additives are gone, the dispersant capability is maxed out, etc is a considerably bigger issue.
The best reason to run the ff per owner's manual is not to be frugal and wring every penny of use out of the oil - - rather it's because aged oil does a better job of lubricating the engine and protecting against wear than fresh, "green" oil. http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/.
There's a guy over on one of the bmw diesel forums who is in the process of verifying the SAE study by drawing a sample of oil thru the dipstick and sending it off for uoa's. IIRC, so far he's done this at 1k, 3k, 5k, 9k miles. At the 9k uoa he's found that 40% of the total iron wear in the oil occurred in the first 1000 mi. It would seem to confirm the SAE findings that it takes a couple thousand miles for the fresh oil to get its chemical stuff together in one bag. So the aged oil is like liquid gold. Don't change it before the factory says to do so. And no, in my opinion, you don't need to dump the ff early in order to "wash out" wear metals.
I have no doubt that the study is correct. A few years ago I remember one Edward Kollin (then head of Exxon's lubricants and fuels testing lab) noted that wear was highest around the initial 1000 miles after an oil change. He said it almost as an aside, but it did leave an impression on me. However, I'm wondering if the conclusions of this guy's personal test might be off. First of all, there is some iron present in some motor oils. Also - there's always residual oil after every oil change, so sending a sample of the oil right after the change might be helpful to set a baseline for the starting point to establish additional iron wear.
Of course we may just be arguing about things that make little difference in the grand scheme of things. I've heard of people who have had engines last 300K miles on nothing but the manufacturer's standard oil change period as well as those doing it every 3000 miles. I almost religiously changed the oil on my dad's Buick Regal every 3000 miles (the severe service interval) with various 10W-30s, and it burned a quart every 1000 miles after about 140K miles on the odo, and smelled like it when I trailed the car. The biggest issue may not be frequent or infrequent oil changes, but regular changes. It's the neglected car that might go 15,000 miles on the same oil or where the level went down well below the min line. Going beyond the limits where the antiwear additives are depleted, the detergent additives are gone, the dispersant capability is maxed out, etc is a considerably bigger issue.
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
My Dad has changed the oil in my Mom's 2001 IS300 every 3k with M1.12 years later and 220k miles later the last time my folks took the car to lexus was for a timing belt service where the mechanic stated "this car with 220k feels peppier than any IS300 I have driven. Heck I think it would keep up with a new one"
10k on oil? Sure you can. I just wouldn't.
Jeff
If I do 3k OCI with M1 (or any other synthetic oil) in my 350+k miles 1994 LS400, I would use 600 quarts M1 plus 115 oil filters for a cost of around $3500($5/qt and $5 a filter) parts plus $1150 for labor(115 times $10), the total cost is about $4650.
I do 6-7k/6mo OCI with dino and 12-15k/12mo with syn, FCI is once a year. The total oil changes over 20 years is about 25-30 oil changes at about $40 each, so the total cost is no more than $1200, about 75% less than 3k OCI.
I spent 75% less on oil changes, doesn't mean my engine should stop running after 200-250k miles. As of now no problem related to oil, vale cover gaskets are original without leak, oil consumption is normal at 1/2 quarts in 3-4k miles since new.
My Dad has changed the oil in my Mom's 2001 IS300 every 3k with M1.12 years later and 220k miles later the last time my folks took the car to lexus was for a timing belt service where the mechanic stated "this car with 220k feels peppier than any IS300 I have driven. Heck I think it would keep up with a new one"
10k on oil? Sure you can. I just wouldn't.
Jeff
If I do 3k OCI with M1 (or any other synthetic oil) in my 350+k miles 1994 LS400, I would use 600 quarts M1 plus 115 oil filters for a cost of around $3500($5/qt and $5 a filter) parts plus $1150 for labor(115 times $10), the total cost is about $4650.
I do 6-7k/6mo OCI with dino and 12-15k/12mo with syn, FCI is once a year. The total oil changes over 20 years is about 25-30 oil changes at about $40 each, so the total cost is no more than $1200, about 75% less than 3k OCI.
I spent 75% less on oil changes, doesn't mean my engine should stop running after 200-250k miles. As of now no problem related to oil, vale cover gaskets are original without leak, oil consumption is normal at 1/2 quarts in 3-4k miles since new.
Some manufacturers do put in a "break in factory fill." Even if you don't want to call it break in, it's just for the factory fill/break in.
However, if Lexus it putting the famous Toyota 0w20, obviously that is no break in oil, rich in all the moly and everything.
Most factory fills I would, personally, run at least close to the recommendation just in case it was something special.
However, in this case, I think we have UOAs showing it isn't a break in oil. Probably no harm either way.
it's such a great oil that 10,000 shouldn't be an issue now or later. I ran a car on the recommend change of factory fill to 13,000 miles a few years back. That oil had no moly for break in, but was rich in detergents, crazy high TBN.
It's your call.
I'm sure Lexus feels very comfortable with the 10,000 miles on TGMO oil.
However, if Lexus it putting the famous Toyota 0w20, obviously that is no break in oil, rich in all the moly and everything.
Most factory fills I would, personally, run at least close to the recommendation just in case it was something special.
However, in this case, I think we have UOAs showing it isn't a break in oil. Probably no harm either way.
it's such a great oil that 10,000 shouldn't be an issue now or later. I ran a car on the recommend change of factory fill to 13,000 miles a few years back. That oil had no moly for break in, but was rich in detergents, crazy high TBN.
It's your call.
I'm sure Lexus feels very comfortable with the 10,000 miles on TGMO oil.
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My son went 9400 miles on his new Dart with the factory fill of 0W-20. He just followed the OLM. His driving was a lot of stop and go commuter traffic. The oil "looked" fine coming out and and the engine didn't use any of the 5 quart FF during that time. I think the Lexus takes 6.5 quarts? I wouldn't lose any sleep going 10,000 miles between changes. Your wallet will thank you. I personally know of a Lexus 3.5 V6 that went 35000 miles on the FF before it finally broke a camshaft and was only running on one bank of cylinders. It would have been fine if the guy leasing it had just added oil, he never changed it or topped it off. It finally ran out of oil and failed. Not the fault of the engine. Be careful buying used cars off-lease.
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Lexus knows what they are doing, follow the FSM.
Do you see blown up Lexus on the side of the road because I can assure you most owners won't bring them back to the dealership until after 10k.
My Dad has changed the oil in my Mom's 2001 IS300 every 3k with M1.12 years later and 220k miles later the last time my folks took the car to lexus was for a timing belt service where the mechanic stated "this car with 220k feels peppier than any IS300 I have driven. Heck I think it would keep up with a new one"
10k on oil? Sure you can. I just wouldn't.
Jeff
Good for them, and my friends dad has about that on his GX following the FSM, and my buddy has almost 300k on his Mercedes doing all 12k-13k depending on the OLM. Both run just fine and will to the junkyard.
I rather have the extra $5k in my pocket.
If Toyota says they can go 10k their is probably a 20%-40% margin of safety built into that figure. Toyota's engineers know how to make a motor.
People on this forum like to waste money based on feelings. So I guess if it feels good change it, because its all about what feels good.
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Lexus knows what they are doing, follow the FSM.
Do you see blown up Lexus on the side of the road because I can assure you most owners won't bring them back to the dealership until after 10k.
My Dad has changed the oil in my Mom's 2001 IS300 every 3k with M1.12 years later and 220k miles later the last time my folks took the car to lexus was for a timing belt service where the mechanic stated "this car with 220k feels peppier than any IS300 I have driven. Heck I think it would keep up with a new one"
10k on oil? Sure you can. I just wouldn't.
Jeff
Good for them, and my friends dad has about that on his GX following the FSM, and my buddy has almost 300k on his Mercedes doing all 12k-13k depending on the OLM. Both run just fine and will to the junkyard.
I rather have the extra $5k in my pocket.
If Toyota says they can go 10k their is probably a 20%-40% margin of safety built into that figure. Toyota's engineers know how to make a motor.
People on this forum like to waste money based on feelings. So I guess if it feels good change it, because its all about what feels good.
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With Lexus the first oil change at 10,000 miles is free! Maybe they would do it for you at 5,000 for free, or maybe they would insist on charging, or maybe they would refuse to do it and you would have to go to an independent mechanic. When I got my new 2010 RX350 I changed the oil myself at 5,000 then brought it to them at 10,000 for the free one.
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Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
My Dad has changed the oil in my Mom's 2001 IS300 every 3k with M1.12 years later and 220k miles later the last time my folks took the car to lexus was for a timing belt service where the mechanic stated "this car with 220k feels peppier than any IS300 I have driven. Heck I think it would keep up with a new one"
10k on oil? Sure you can. I just wouldn't.
Jeff
If I do 3k OCI with M1 (or any other synthetic oil) in my 350+k miles 1994 LS400, I would use 600 quarts M1 plus 115 oil filters for a cost of around $3500($5/qt and $5 a filter) parts plus $1150 for labor(115 times $10), the total cost is about $4650.
I do 6-7k/6mo OCI with dino and 12-15k/12mo with syn, FCI is once a year. The total oil changes over 20 years is about 25-30 oil changes at about $40 each, so the total cost is no more than $1200, about 75% less than 3k OCI.
I spent 75% less on oil changes, doesn't mean my engine should stop running after 200-250k miles. As of now no problem related to oil, vale cover gaskets are original without leak, oil consumption is normal at 1/2 quarts in 3-4k miles since new.
I change my own oil cost is minimal so your cost doesn't apply to everyone.
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
My Dad has changed the oil in my Mom's 2001 IS300 every 3k with M1.12 years later and 220k miles later the last time my folks took the car to lexus was for a timing belt service where the mechanic stated "this car with 220k feels peppier than any IS300 I have driven. Heck I think it would keep up with a new one"
10k on oil? Sure you can. I just wouldn't.
Jeff
If I do 3k OCI with M1 (or any other synthetic oil) in my 350+k miles 1994 LS400, I would use 600 quarts M1 plus 115 oil filters for a cost of around $3500($5/qt and $5 a filter) parts plus $1150 for labor(115 times $10), the total cost is about $4650.
I do 6-7k/6mo OCI with dino and 12-15k/12mo with syn, FCI is once a year. The total oil changes over 20 years is about 25-30 oil changes at about $40 each, so the total cost is no more than $1200, about 75% less than 3k OCI.
I spent 75% less on oil changes, doesn't mean my engine should stop running after 200-250k miles. As of now no problem related to oil, vale cover gaskets are original without leak, oil consumption is normal at 1/2 quarts in 3-4k miles since new.
I change my own oil cost is minimal so your cost doesn't apply to everyone.
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I change my own oil cost is minimal so your cost doesn't apply to everyone.
Still, more oil and filters = higher cost. Plus time is not free either.
Most of us don't keep cars long enough to notice any appreciable difference resulting from more frequent oil changes. Most cars are ditched not because of engine lubrication issues but due to other reasons such as failed trans, electronics, rust, etc.
Alas, as I already said in this thread, do whatever helps you sleep better at night. It has its own value that you can't really put a price on.
I change my own oil cost is minimal so your cost doesn't apply to everyone.
Still, more oil and filters = higher cost. Plus time is not free either.
Most of us don't keep cars long enough to notice any appreciable difference resulting from more frequent oil changes. Most cars are ditched not because of engine lubrication issues but due to other reasons such as failed trans, electronics, rust, etc.
Alas, as I already said in this thread, do whatever helps you sleep better at night. It has its own value that you can't really put a price on.
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People on the forums here can do what they like. Many folks like myself come here to obtain knowledge and make a decision.
People have their proof and I have mine. Most people don't keep their cars long enough to even care anyway.
In my current car Blackstone Labs recommended 5k oil changes due to the tbn being nil after 5k miles. So can I go 10k as the dealer and mmanufacturer recommends? Sure I can but if I plan on keeping this car and pushing things that far to me is ridiculous. The manufacturer is not the one paying the repair bills down the road. ha ha.
As I mentioned before in my past tracked cars. I would change the oil after every race which would be every week. After 5 years the turbo journal's, cams and heck I even checked pistons after upgrading parts and all were within factory spec for new parts.
I change the oil every 3-5k by my experience.
Another example I posted a uoa of the ex wife's 2011 elantra after 3k miles with qs ud 5w20. After 3k miles the tbn was .8!!!
I always side on the side of caution. Like I said. Oil is cheap in comparison to possible engine issues.
To each their own.
Jeff
People have their proof and I have mine. Most people don't keep their cars long enough to even care anyway.
In my current car Blackstone Labs recommended 5k oil changes due to the tbn being nil after 5k miles. So can I go 10k as the dealer and mmanufacturer recommends? Sure I can but if I plan on keeping this car and pushing things that far to me is ridiculous. The manufacturer is not the one paying the repair bills down the road. ha ha.
As I mentioned before in my past tracked cars. I would change the oil after every race which would be every week. After 5 years the turbo journal's, cams and heck I even checked pistons after upgrading parts and all were within factory spec for new parts.
I change the oil every 3-5k by my experience.
Another example I posted a uoa of the ex wife's 2011 elantra after 3k miles with qs ud 5w20. After 3k miles the tbn was .8!!!
I always side on the side of caution. Like I said. Oil is cheap in comparison to possible engine issues.
To each their own.
Jeff
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Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
People on the forums here can do what they like. Many folks like myself come here to obtain knowledge and make a decision.
People have their proof and I have mine. Most people don't keep their cars long enough to even care anyway.
In my current car Blackstone Labs recommended 5k oil changes due to the tbn being nil after 5k miles. So can I go 10k as the dealer and mmanufacturer recommends? Sure I can but if I plan on keeping this car and pushing things that far to me is ridiculous. The manufacturer is not the one paying the repair bills down the road. ha ha.
As I mentioned before in my past tracked cars. I would change the oil after every race which would be every week. After 5 years the turbo journal's, cams and heck I even checked pistons after upgrading parts and all were within factory spec for new parts.
I change the oil every 3-5k by my experience.
Another example I posted a uoa of the ex wife's 2011 elantra after 3k miles with qs ud 5w20. After 3k miles the tbn was .8!!!
I always side on the side of caution. Like I said. Oil is cheap in comparison to possible engine issues.
To each their own.
Jeff
Are you and your ex driving next to a powdered citric acid factory or something? The UOA forum is full of people who went 7-10K mile intervals with the TBN being 2 to 4 and recommendations that it was still suitable.
People on the forums here can do what they like. Many folks like myself come here to obtain knowledge and make a decision.
People have their proof and I have mine. Most people don't keep their cars long enough to even care anyway.
In my current car Blackstone Labs recommended 5k oil changes due to the tbn being nil after 5k miles. So can I go 10k as the dealer and mmanufacturer recommends? Sure I can but if I plan on keeping this car and pushing things that far to me is ridiculous. The manufacturer is not the one paying the repair bills down the road. ha ha.
As I mentioned before in my past tracked cars. I would change the oil after every race which would be every week. After 5 years the turbo journal's, cams and heck I even checked pistons after upgrading parts and all were within factory spec for new parts.
I change the oil every 3-5k by my experience.
Another example I posted a uoa of the ex wife's 2011 elantra after 3k miles with qs ud 5w20. After 3k miles the tbn was .8!!!
I always side on the side of caution. Like I said. Oil is cheap in comparison to possible engine issues.
To each their own.
Jeff
Are you and your ex driving next to a powdered citric acid factory or something? The UOA forum is full of people who went 7-10K mile intervals with the TBN being 2 to 4 and recommendations that it was still suitable.
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Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
People on the forums here can do what they like. Many folks like myself come here to obtain knowledge and make a decision.
People have their proof and I have mine. Most people don't keep their cars long enough to even care anyway.
In my current car Blackstone Labs recommended 5k oil changes due to the tbn being nil after 5k miles. So can I go 10k as the dealer and mmanufacturer recommends? Sure I can but if I plan on keeping this car and pushing things that far to me is ridiculous. The manufacturer is not the one paying the repair bills down the road. ha ha.
As I mentioned before in my past tracked cars. I would change the oil after every race which would be every week. After 5 years the turbo journal's, cams and heck I even checked pistons after upgrading parts and all were within factory spec for new parts.
I change the oil every 3-5k by my experience.
Another example I posted a uoa of the ex wife's 2011 elantra after 3k miles with qs ud 5w20. After 3k miles the tbn was .8!!!
I always side on the side of caution. Like I said. Oil is cheap in comparison to possible engine issues.
To each their own.
Jeff
Are you and your ex driving next to a powdered citric acid factory or something? The UOA forum is full of people who went 7-10K mile intervals with the TBN being 2 to 4 and recommendations that it was still suitable.
Nope.
Search for my uoa and see for yourself.
Jeff
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
People on the forums here can do what they like. Many folks like myself come here to obtain knowledge and make a decision.
People have their proof and I have mine. Most people don't keep their cars long enough to even care anyway.
In my current car Blackstone Labs recommended 5k oil changes due to the tbn being nil after 5k miles. So can I go 10k as the dealer and mmanufacturer recommends? Sure I can but if I plan on keeping this car and pushing things that far to me is ridiculous. The manufacturer is not the one paying the repair bills down the road. ha ha.
As I mentioned before in my past tracked cars. I would change the oil after every race which would be every week. After 5 years the turbo journal's, cams and heck I even checked pistons after upgrading parts and all were within factory spec for new parts.
I change the oil every 3-5k by my experience.
Another example I posted a uoa of the ex wife's 2011 elantra after 3k miles with qs ud 5w20. After 3k miles the tbn was .8!!!
I always side on the side of caution. Like I said. Oil is cheap in comparison to possible engine issues.
To each their own.
Jeff
Are you and your ex driving next to a powdered citric acid factory or something? The UOA forum is full of people who went 7-10K mile intervals with the TBN being 2 to 4 and recommendations that it was still suitable.
Nope.
Search for my uoa and see for yourself.
Jeff
I have run my car at three consecutive track events without changing the oil. Temps reached 300 degrees at one. OA showed no degradation of the M1 0W-40 which is the factory spec for my engine.
Early change of the FF is a 'feel good' mod, just like a bigger/longer/wider oil filter. No proven benefits.
But it ain't likely to hurt nuttin' either....
Early change of the FF is a 'feel good' mod, just like a bigger/longer/wider oil filter. No proven benefits.
But it ain't likely to hurt nuttin' either....
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