Geez guy. A tad bit harsh. You almost make me regret posting anything at all. "Justifying the journey with lies"? Good Lord, you must not make many friends.
Recommend me the best for Miata
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Shel_B
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It's not the quantity that's of importance so much as the type of moly and its relationship, its interaction with, other components of the oil that matters.
dnewton3
Staff member
Well, TBH, it was meant to provoke a response; to get you to think about this logically and not emotionally. I said it would be terse, right?
If I offended you personally, then I most certainly owe you an apology and do so now.
But seriously, the three criteria you laid out (duration, use and moly) mean aboslutely nothing to this decision.
I have a pragmatic recommendation ...
Try all three lubes. Get some UOAs along the way. What you're likely to prove to yourself is that given the use and maintenance you laid out, you'll never, ever see any statistically significant difference in the results. Then maybe your ID will subside and the practical you will emerge.
Again - sorry if I was rude to a point of upsetting you.
Seems like long ago, I had an 04 and an 06 Miata, if memory serves, at the time Mazda was reccomending synthetc 5W-30, anyway, both engines had some tappet noise on cold starting. Tech at the dealer told me to try 0W-30, so I switched to M1 0W-30 AFE, absolutely no noise on startup. That would work as would any of the 0w20's on your list, don't obsess over it just pick a decent oil in either 0w20 or 0W-30, change as your comfort level dictates and enjoy the Miata.
No problem. I did realize when posting that I may encounter a response from a completely logical individual that bases oil use decisions on facts and data. I also knew that my inquiry was more emotional based. I rather thought I'd admitted to that in my wording, but perhaps I failed in that regard.
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My view is any quality oil at a 6 month OCI performs as well as the next. But at running temperature follow the operator’s manual for viscosity. In your case 0w20. Mexico’s oil viscosity recommendation is 10w30 and around the world there another viscosity as high as 10w50. Where you buy the car is how the VVT is programmed for. The VVT opening being overlapped actually is a form of EGR without a valve. It also can change the compression ratio. Not the Miata but other Skyactiv 2.0 engines have a compression ratio of 14 to 1, but for the US market is 13 to 1. (all Skyactiv Miata’s are 13 to 1) In Europe the Miata runs only on premium fuel, but in the US suggest premium but can run on regular. That is all due to programming of the VVT.
The way I look at this question is that you're at the bottom of a 5' hole and need to get out. We'll say the "meets the spec" oil is a 6' ladder and these boutique oils are equivalent to an 8' ladder. Both get you out of the hole the same. Ne benefit is gained from using the 8' ladder, it just cost you more to buy it.
May I ask why you use Red Line in your Hyundai Accent?
I'm leaning toward the HPLoil.
I understand that basically any decent oil will do the job.
When I first bought my 2019 Miata I wanted to follow the OM closely. Mazda 0w20 was pretty expensive, I put Idemitsu Zepro with moly for the first change. That Idemitsu price went up and switched to TGMO due to the high moly. (dinuclear type moly) Later on with the help of this site found the base oil of TGMO was not GTL that I was previously led to believe. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is what I settled on. It‘s base oil is GTL and the moly used is trinuclear. (needs less PPM to be affective) I know you want the best and everyone has an opinion on that. My view is the best oil is a short OCI.
I think what you were hoping to gain more info on was "Which of the three oils would be the best for my application and why?"
I totally get that part because I'd want to know myself. Seeing there are so many high-end options, the value would be to understand their chemistries and benefits/ downsides etc.
Sure, I'm using up leftover oil from a previous vehicle. My next oil change will be Mobil 1 purchased in bulk at sams club.
Exactly. I know those three oils I highlighted will all be overkill for my application. But nonetheless I've narrowed it down to them because I perceive them to be among the very best. As for chemistry, as an example I am wondering if the super high concentration of moly in the HPLoil has any added benefit over the others? Or does one prevent fouling better with DI engines than the other?
Anyway, thanks for getting my point.
Great minds think alike! Thank you.
“If everyone is thinking alike, than someone isn’t thinking” General Patton
2022, you’re still in warranty. Stick to M1 0W-20/5W-30 if you track or take it to red line often. Keep your receipts and mileage. Dealers will do anything to weasel out of a warranty claim.
Once powertrain is up, then any one of those is fine.
Once powertrain is up, then any one of those is fine.
