Inherited a 1996 Nissan Maxima - Thoughts?

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While I can't really call it an inheritance, my mom gave me her much-loved 1996 Nissan Maxima when I went to visit her on vacation last month. I've wanted a work beater for a long time (I own vehicles with low gas mileage) and used to bug her about when she was going to sell it to me, since I knew it was approaching 200k, and has probably outlived its life as a commuter car for a woman in her 50's. She always laughed and said "no way! I'm driving it until it falls apart."

That time finally came when it left her stranded-- she says the shop said the ECU needed replacing, and she spent about $400 to fix it; shortly after she bought a new Honda. I don't know that she had any other major issues with it (she's owned it since new), but I did see a new radiator in the service records.

To get to the point, the car has 210k miles. It's the loaded GLE with leather, climate control, sunroof, BOSE audio, pretty much every option available in 1996. The condition was that I had to drive it from St. Louis to Colorado Springs, and it drove flawlessly. Check engine light is on and points to ECU trouble (thought the shop fixed that...! shady mechanics, *SMH*). The trouble codes are P0500, P0605, P0325, P0600. The ones I can remember off hand were "serial communication failure," "VSS Sensor failure," O2 sensor something-or-other, and the fourth I can't remember. It drives fine, shifts fine, you wouldn't know there was any difference had I not read the codes.

That said, the Torque app on my phone shows the car runs in closed loop like it should, fuel trims and timing are nice and pretty; basically nothing is amiss.

I'm curious to see if you guys think this is a ticking time bomb, or if it has some life left in it? I've driven it to work this last week (32 miles each way) and it could easily pass as a 100K mile car. It is a little bit loud at idle, which I haven't discerned whether it's a bad bearing in the accessory drive, or a loud timing chain-- it seems to be one of the two (that side of the engine, that type of noise).

Has anyone owned one of these vehicles, or have some input to give as to longevity? The oil was changed at Valvoline service centers with Maxlife 5w-30 basically its whole life since 100k according to service records. Oddly, there are no leaks other than the typical oozing and grime near oil seals, but nothing that would leave spots on the driveway. Any suggestions on how to prolong this vehicle's life? I am very mechanically inclined and can rebuild an engine if need be, but not too familiar with this car or engine family. All I'm really wanting out of it is a comfortable daily driver that gets decent gas mileage, and so far it seems to be footing the bill just fine. Would like to get the CEL light off, however. I should mention that the car lived most of its life in Nevada and in the last 5 years, Missouri. No rust or corrosion, perfect body. It's a pearl white, so it shows its age extremely well-- could pass as a 5-10 year old car easily. They don't salt roads here in CO, so there should be no corrosion issues going forward.

Any thoughts / suggestions / input / etc. would be appreciated.
 
Best car I ever owned so far was a 1997 Nissan Maxima GLE, drove it for 230k and traded it in. That thing was incredibly reliable and fantastic in snow.
 
That car just may last forever. Wish you lived near me so you could see and drive my friend's 1998 Altima that's getting ready to pass the 400,000 mile mark. Engine is so smooth and quiet that you can't even hear it running. She lived in Alaska for a few years and drove it back and forth. Aside from that she's always lived in the country where it's always stayed outside,never been garaged,and the paint/trim is still in very good shape. Her car refuses to die. It's never left her stranded and had never had a single part replaced or repaired on it. Everything including all power options still work flawlessly. A/C still works like brand new and has never been serviced.

3000 mile PYB oil changes since new like clockwork. I suggest PYB 10W30 in your Maxima every 3K. I'd love to have one of those,GREAT cars!
 
Probably one of the most overbuilt cars of that generation. I had a 97 and 99.
 
Nissan built some of its best cars when they were a financial mess. That generation Maxima is probably better built than the Honda of that generation. The 1998 Update really helped the look of the car. Notice how newer cars are going back to the Maxima like tail light design? Anyway that 3.0V6 is a gem of an engine.
 
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It seems those cars are hit-or-miss...I've heard lots of stories of them going absolutely forever, and I have heard stories of them failing catastrophically.

Hope yours keeps going without issue for you - does it burn much oil? Some Nissan 3.0's burn a lot of oil.
 
Give NissanDataScan II a try, gives more detail on this particular vehicle then Torque.

A screenshot of codes would be nice

Start checking grounds, battery terminals, and if the ECM connections are all good and clean.

You can pretty much ignore the knock sensor code, they all do that.
 
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
Check the radiator support for rust

This.

And the knock sensor code is not nonsense, it means either the knock sensor is bad or has a connection problem.

In a heavily salted region I would be concerned about rust, and you will have no shortage of leaks at this age. But otherwise, if you can look after an older car, the powertrain in this one usually very good.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
and the ignition coils; did 1996 had COP ?


This vehicle does have COP, which floored me because the car is so old. One looks new and appears to have been replaced recently.
 
if you start getting random misfire, then one of the coil is going. MAF is another weak point. Rear twisty calipers starts hanging and dragging brakes. Oh, starter and alternator before 200K but that is about it. This is all from 2000 Maxima but I believe drive-train is identical between 1996 and 2000.
 
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I had a '95, '97 and '00. all were extremely reliable. I put a lot of miles on them, but at the time I was doing 40K+ a year, so the car barely had time to cool down. All three required starters, coils and Vehicle Speed Sensor (makes it feel like the tranny is failing, really just a bolt on sensor).

I am considering getting another '99 or '02 as we speak. It does not seem uncommon for them to run 200K w/ minimal issues, but I did have a friend who had an '03 that had all kinds of electrical gremlins. I usually get rid of them by the 220K mark.

The motors normally sound kind of tractor like at idle - lots of chain noise/clatter - I don't know if that is what you are hearing. There are also reports of chain guides breaking that can cause a rubbing/grinding noise.
 
Originally Posted By: BearZDefect
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Check the radiator support for rust

This.

And the knock sensor code is not nonsense, it means either the knock sensor is bad or has a connection problem.


I'd normally agree, but you've never owned a VG or VQ series Nissan, have you?

You'll learn to ignore that P0325
 
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
I'd normally agree, but you've never owned a VG or VQ series Nissan, have you?

You'll learn to ignore that P0325


Now why is this? I had a 2001 Frontier with the VG33ER (supercharged), and input from the knock sensor would cause the ECU to dump all boost (turning the engine into a total slug) for seemingly no reason, even when using high quality 93 octane gas. I eventually had to resort to bypassing the knock sensor with resistors, and it drove great for 100K+ miles that way. I would get about 8 mpg and horrible performance (felt like a 2 cylinder, not a six) when the knock sensor would intervene. I thought this was simply due to the supercharged engine's ECU being overly conservative, but after reading this, I'm not so sure.

Are all Nissan knock sensors [censored]? Is there additional performance to be had by getting this code cleared either with a new sensor or some bypass? Why is this code being set, and why is it considered 'normal'?
 
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
Originally Posted By: BearZDefect
And the knock sensor code is not nonsense, it means either the knock sensor is bad or has a connection problem.


I'd normally agree, but you've never owned a VG or VQ series Nissan, have you?

You'll learn to ignore that P0325

I have owned my 1997 Infiniti i30 for ten years. It had the knock sensor code when I bought it. I replaced the knock sensor and that code never came back. I rechecked the stored codes once a year to make sure, since the knock sensor code alone does not trigger the MIL. It also had an EGR flow code. That took some work to clear out the carbon build-up at the top of the pipe near the intake manifold.

Anyway, if you don't bother with the knock sensor then I would also not bother using the recommended premium fuel.

Yes, the VQ has coil-on-plug ignition. I think model year 1999 is when Nissan started using poor quality ignition coils. I have never replaced mine (it's a 1997) and never had misfires.

I think the Nissan VQ30DE is a fine engine. Mine is in excellent shape, apart from mandatory minor leaks. But the entire vehicle is old, and we all know what that brings.
 
There are few Maxima owners on youtube and they have published phenomenal maintenance video for it. Each and every possible problem on that model is covered with good videos.

For example, that EGR passage cleanup or PCV change is well illustrated in youtube video.
 
Yes, there have been a few wonderful fourth generation Maxima owners out there who put up very helpful videos and write-ups, both on youtube and maxima.org

I have checked the PCV valve on mine occasionally, but it is one part I have not had to replace. No significant oil consumption over an oil change interval.

Be sure to diagnose problems correctly before trying to fix them. Just because some poster on a forum said he fixed symptom ABC by replacing part XYZ doesn't necessarily mean I need to replace part XYZ on my specimen.
 
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