After digesting all the info from BITOGers, I think that is the plan.Why not just do 5K changes on a basic Euro oil that has the right approval? The cost is about the same as is the ease of buying it. Sure...you can run basic 5W30 Supertech oil in that 2.5 but I can't see why vs. Quaker State Euro Synthetic 5W40 for a dollar more/5qts delivered to your door.
It's really a no-brainer, it would be different if the Euro oils were really $$$ or hard to find. We ran basic 5W30 in our MK4 Jetta w/2.0 for a bit without issue BTW but went with the M1 0W40 after a while once I found out it was easy to find. That car went to 220K/14 years under my ownership.After digesting all the info from BITOGers, I think that is the plan.
We discussed this long time ago to death.Ok, so now were getting to the nuts and bolts. So youre saying that in order to get the Euro manufacturers' approval, the oils are just flat out better due to stringency vs API approvals?
Thanks everyone for helping me understand this Euro stuff better.
The main reason to bring it up was that Ive got a pretty decent stash of 5w30 that I could get about 2 years worth of OCIs.It's really a no-brainer, it would be different if the Euro oils were really $$$ or hard to find. We ran basic 5W30 in our MK4 Jetta w/2.0 for a bit without issue BTW but went with the M1 0W40 after a while once I found out it was easy to find. That car went to 220K/14 years under my ownership.
I don't see any issues. Just keep an ear out for odd noises when the oil gets hot. It may be slighlty noisier, but should be peppier performing. This is a low power density engine.The main reason to bring it up was that Ive got a pretty decent stash of 5w30 that I could get about 2 years worth of OCIs.
It's a 12 year old Jetta with the 2.5......use whatever you have if it's easier. This really doesn't make any difference here (to me). If you were going to the store to buy oil, yes, I'd buy Euro oil.The main reason to bring it up was that Ive got a pretty decent stash of 5w30 that I could get about 2 years worth of OCIs.
That means an automatic.Not high stress per se, but I was surprised that it revvs at 3000 at 70 mph on the highway. I wish I had a 6 speed.
my 2013 2.5 vw passat with a 6sp a.t. runs 2200rpm at 70mph for 36mpg. i have never understood the hate from the professional automotive intellectuals for the 2.5.Not high stress per se, but I was surprised that it revvs at 3000 at 70 mph on the highway. I wish I had a 6 speed.
A 6sp wouldn't change that. My 2012 Honda Accord has a 5sp. At 80 mph it's at 3k. I've driven a 2020 accord with a 6sp manual, it turns 3k in 6th. Just 1at,2cd and 3rd gear are closer, 4,5,6 are further spaced, regardless the final drive is the sameNot high stress per se, but I was surprised that it revvs at 3000 at 70 mph on the highway. I wish I had a 6 speed.
You can swap the GTI 6 speed in but the revs do not come down much. Also remember the the Speedo is not accurate on the mk5 2.5 cars. It’s about 5mph fast.Not high stress per se, but I was surprised that it revvs at 3000 at 70 mph on the highway. I wish I had a 6 speed.
The mk5 2.5 has a transmission geared for fun/acceleration. The Passat is very conservatively geared plus it has taller tires and the final drive was not changed for that. The 2.5 is a tank.my 2013 2.5 vw passat with a 6sp a.t. runs 2200rpm at 70mph for 36mpg. i have never understood the hate from the professional automotive intellectuals for the 2.5.
i can’t add to discussion’s intent as mine gets 12 mo dealer oci that happens at about 8k miles these days.
Good info. Thanks!I do 10k oil changes on my daughters 2008 Jetta 2.5. We bought it with 15k miles, it currently has 180k miles. The 10k oil changes caused no real issues.It has been remarkedly trouble free while not quite Toyota reliable but not terrible at all.
That post is correct. The oil system in this motor is over kill plus the 2.5 is a tight motor. The oil last a very long time in this car if you’re using 40wGood info. Thanks!