If Im doing 5k OCI, is there an issue running an API 5w30 Syn in my 2010 VWJetta 2 5?
- Thread starter N Heat
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Mobil 1 0w40 for 5K OCI
Increased engine wear. HTHS for regular 5w30 does not meet the minimum required for 502.00
You can get 502.00 certified oil at Wally world
girlfriends 2.5 jetta ran well using NO oil, 10W30 typical fake synthetic in Pa, still good when she traded on an oil burning NEW 2.5 malibu BIG MISTAKE!!! 5000 is fine but with shorter trips i would change every 6 months regardless of miles. that was a good car she should have kept longer IMO. 5-30 starts with a 5W but 10-30 starts with a 10W before viscosity improvers make each a 30 W at the spec oil temp, 100 C
What difference would the weight have on whether you can do 3K or 10K oil changes? Is that among the approved choices in the manual? If not, it's probably ok short term, but not recommended for 100,000 miles.
Are you intending on using a 5W-30 that meets VW 502.00, such as Valvoline European Vehicle 5W-30? If yes, go for it. If no, then the answer is no.
I believe VW 502.00 only included 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 viscosities. As UG_Passat said, there are a few different VW 502.00 compliant oils available at Walmart.
I believe VW 502.00 only included 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 viscosities. As UG_Passat said, there are a few different VW 502.00 compliant oils available at Walmart.
Here is a list of 502 approved 0W-30 oils. Of course many of them aren't going to be available, or hard to find, in the US. But there are plenty that are.
oilsadvisor.com
If it were my car, and living in the Virginia climate, I would run M1 FS 0W-40. My second choice would be M1 FS 5W-40
List of Approved Oils Meeting VW 502 00 Standard
This article provides a detailed explanation of the VW 502 00 specification and a list of approved oils that meet VW 502.00 standards.
oilsadvisor.com
If it were my car, and living in the Virginia climate, I would run M1 FS 0W-40. My second choice would be M1 FS 5W-40
Any synthetic 5W-30 will likely be fine for 6mo/5k miles. The engine is easy on oil.
But a 502/505 oil is no more expensive and should be used.
But a 502/505 oil is no more expensive and should be used.
Ok, good info. I was under the impression that the Euro oils were all made to hit the 10k OCI with no sweat with severe conditions. OTOH, some API syns may or may not be a great choice for 10k OCIs in severe conditions. I have a decent amount of 5w30 syns on hand, so I was just going to use them and do 5k. I did one oil change already with QS Euro 5w40. So just stick with that and roll with 10k?
I do not go further than 5k on any VWAG car because I feel that cleaner oil is better for timing chain longevity. I would use a 502/505 or 504/507 oil if making a purchase because they are no more expensive compared to a syn 5W-30.
If you have non-euro syn 5W-30 on hand, I would be fine using it. Just my opinion. The 2.5 engine is not a highly-stressed engine.
Beat the snot out of it and idle a ton? If not then honestly no but then again I'd suggest you go to Walmart and get quaker state euro 5w-40. It's the cheapest and real good for it's price. I think it was $21 last I saw it in store not even a week ago. Cost the same as their full syn 5w-30. Why not get better for the same price if not less than what you may have paid for that 5w-30.
Extended drain capability is not the only reason for the Euro specs. The specs have additional requirements for wear and deposit control. So, whether you run a 3K OCI or a 10K OCI, those two attributes still matter.
Grade is functionally irrelevant here due to the minimum HT/HS requirement of the approval. HT/HS is an important requirement of the approval.
And in addition to the points The Critic makes, there are also requirements for cam wear and pitting, sludge formation, piston cleanliness and others. These have analogs sometimes in the API world but with the approved oil you know you're getting a product that meets the specific VW requirements.
Plus with the inexpensive 502 00 approved oils on the market, what's the point?
And in addition to the points The Critic makes, there are also requirements for cam wear and pitting, sludge formation, piston cleanliness and others. These have analogs sometimes in the API world but with the approved oil you know you're getting a product that meets the specific VW requirements.
Plus with the inexpensive 502 00 approved oils on the market, what's the point?
It's more cost beneficial to run a Euro oil that is good for 10k than a standard oil for 5k.
Pennzoil Platinum 0w-40 5 quart jugs are $25 each and are on a buy 2 get $25 back rebate currently.
Or, you can get a jug of Supertech synthetic for $20.38 online as of the time of this post.
Pennzoil Platinum 0w-40 5 quart jugs are $25 each and are on a buy 2 get $25 back rebate currently.
Or, you can get a jug of Supertech synthetic for $20.38 online as of the time of this post.
Ok, so now were getting to the nuts and bolts. So youre saying that in order to get the Euro manufacturers' approval, the oils are just flat out better due to stringency vs API approvals?
Thanks everyone for helping me understand this Euro stuff better.
The VW 2.5 is not a highly stressed engine....I can't see using 5w30 syn @ 5k intervals being a problem...but as other have said...VW approved oils are cheap at WM so why bother.
PS: Toyota's, Honda's, Ford's etc..will run neary forever on synthetic oil changes at 5K....why wouldn't a non-turbo, under stressed VW?
PS: Toyota's, Honda's, Ford's etc..will run neary forever on synthetic oil changes at 5K....why wouldn't a non-turbo, under stressed VW?
Particulates cause wear, as does fuel dilution. Higher viscosity can be helpful in both situations.
As a general rule, I'm not a fan of oils with ultra low HTHS. Additives don't make up for a lack of viscosity. And VA gets hot, hot, hot in the summer.
Race cars can and do use very low viscosity oils to get more HP, and they do so with great success. However, these situations manage oil temperatures very carefully and actively. As any temperature excursion leads to inadequate protection and rapid engine failure. A 9000 RPM, 800HP V8 can use 0W-water oil. But the oil temps are managed and kept low enough, to keep viscosity adequate. The same is not the case with modern cars, which can easily see 220+ oil temps.
This. I would run Mobil 1 5w30 in my LS1 and I switched to 0w40 because it was the same cost and it's popular in those engines. I will run the M1 0w40 in my GTI too. So far it's only had whatever the dealer used which was either VW502/504, I'm not sure which, but it's only a couple thousand into the interval so I haven't bothered changing it yet.
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