✨HPL Results✨: Did 3,000mi make a Difference?

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Apr 10, 2022
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One of my cars is a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0L
I do Mobil1 Full Synthetic oil changes on it every 3000mi (due to habit mostly) I also run a couple oz. of Seafoam through the crankcase before each OCI. I am the second owner and have had it for 7 years or so. The original owner was a girl who's parents bought her the car new for college.

At 223,900mi I pulled the valve cover to replace the gasket, but despite my meticulous maintenance I was disappointed to see significant varnishing (I posted a thread about it here awhile ago). :( I changed the oil at 225,000mi.
WELL, I was recommended to use HPL's synthetic cleaner oil so I substituted ⅗ quart of Mobil1 with HPL to engine. The engine does consume oil (1qt/1000-1500mi) So I used the remaining ⅖ of the HPL to top up. Car is now at 228,000mi. Here are the results:
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✨Original Thread & Original Valve Cover: 225k✨ ^^^

Note photos in Posts #1 & #2 were taken at different times of the day.
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That is some heavy varnish going on there. I have no explanation for it especially based on those short 3k mile intervals.

When I see engines like this and intervals like that I always jump to the conclusion that its' an engine issue.
 
What is not known is what oil and what OCI's were done by the 1st owner of this vehicle. I highly doubt the 1st owner used Mobil 1 synthetic oil.

To the OP, how many miles were on this engine when you bought this car 7 years ago?
 
@Brian123 I bought the car with 160k. I mean, it burns oil and has blowby.

@OVERKILL I actually took a clean microfiber and wiped away a little in that corner. Didn't come off too easily.

@BMWTurboDzl yeah, I was expecting a little better but after comparing the two nothing noticeable.

@fantastic was a 3,000mi test.

@Astro14 @Rand yes ⅗ of a bottle then later the last ⅖. I used the 40 Weight. I will update the OP to include this missing information.

@andrewg and I've only ever used Mobil1 High-Mileage too. 5w30, 10w30, or 10w40 depending on time of year; I prefer the 40 weight.
*Now* for a time around 200-210k I used Shell Rotella T6 5w40 which is a diesel oil (for the viscosity & belief that Diesel oils are more heavy-duty). I stopped using it because of the cost. May try Mobil1 EuroFormula so I can get the desired "5w40" weight.
 
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@Brian123 I bought the car with 160k.

@OVERKILL I actually took a clean microfiber and wiped away a little in that corner. Didn't come off too easily.

@BMWTurboDzl yeah, I was expecting a little better but after comparing the two nothing noticeable.

@fantastic was a 3,000mi test.

@Astro14 @Rand yes ⅗ of a bottle then later the last ⅖. I used the 40 Weight. I will update the OP to include this missing information.

@andrewg and I've only ever used Mobil1 High-Mileage too. 5w30, 10w30, or 10w40 depending on time of year; I prefer the 40 weight.
*Now* for a time around 200-210k I used Shell Rotella 5w40 which is a diesel oil (for the viscosity & belief that Diesel oils are more heavy-duty). I stopped using it because of the cost. May try Mobil1 EuroFormula so I can get the desired "5w40" weight.
So are you going to run one or two OCI's of HPL PCMO?
 
I think I'll stop here. Pulled the valve cover off this morning to check while I did another oci. @BMWTurboDzl Afterall, the 1qt bottle cost $22.82 (that's with the BITOG discount).
 
It's possible there's just too much insoluble varnish deposit to effectively remove it. It could also need a more aggressive approach. The HPL PCMO and HDMO oils clean more aggressively than the HPL EC. The EC is designed as a transition, to remove loose sludge and carbonous deposits slowly before switching to the more aggressive PCMO or HDMO. If it was me, I would replace a whole quart with the EC and run to 230,000 miles. Then switch to the PCMO.
 
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