It's got nearly quarter million miles on it, I'd expect some issues. While that looks bad, get me a measurement on it's thickness.
✨HPL Results✨: Did 3,000mi make a Difference?
- Thread starter RugopsOP
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Thanks
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Continued use of HPL will likely yield improvement.
The AN/ester combination in the PCMO oil would stand a chance to get it done. When there is this much stuff it is simply doing to take time. I would run the oil and change filters every 1000 miles and cut them apart to make a good decision on the correct frequency and to see what is coming out.
David
David
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I will also add that these results are slightly skewed. I initially pulled the valve cover off at 223.9k and I changed the oil at 225k. This review is of 228k.
Well as I mentioned in previously I have used a few ounces of seafoam in the crankcase a couple hundred miles before each OCI and that's what I did. So realistically the results posted in this thread not only had 3000 mi of HPL's EC but also 200-300mi of seafoam as well.
I did not include this on my initial result report because absolutely no improvements were made.
Well as I mentioned in previously I have used a few ounces of seafoam in the crankcase a couple hundred miles before each OCI and that's what I did. So realistically the results posted in this thread not only had 3000 mi of HPL's EC but also 200-300mi of seafoam as well.
I did not include this on my initial result report because absolutely no improvements were made.
Skip the SeaFoam. Use HPL oil. Not a bit of the cleaner, the oil. And check/change the filter every 1,000 miles.
The owner of HPL just gave you advice.
You would be wise to listen.
The owner of HPL just gave you advice.
You would be wise to listen.
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I've seen the benefits of Seafoam in other cars, so far nothing from HPL.
I'd be wise to not spend $90-100 worth of oil just to maybe clean something superficial.
The SeaFoam didn’t do anything, either. So, you would be wise not to buy any more of that...
If you want to clean it, the clear path has been laid out for you. This time, though, I would follow his instructions a bit more closely.
If it were mine, I might try, but if it runs OK, I can understand not putting more effort into this car.
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Reread the previous post where I said I found improvements in other cars with Seafoam.
I was recommended by this site and users to try this product and it didn't work. Now I'm being informed that I need to spend x3-x4 the amount and try more products. I understand why you're wanting to get defensive since there's a sponsorship. This thread was no attempt to bash HPL but instead simply an unbiased review of the EC.
It was review. But unbiased?
Not really, because you didn’t use the product as directed, and you had a really dirty engine.
If I used a 9mm loaded with Speer Gold Dot 124g ammo (really good ammo, according to everyone) to try and stop a bear, and I didn’t stop the bear, should my review of that ammo should be negative?
I mean, after all, the product failed to produce the results I expected when I used it in that way.
But would that be a fair review? Even if I was “unbiased” in how I presented my results?
Of course not, because I didn’t use the product correctly for the application.
Others have seen the EC clean less dirty engines. Your engine requires stronger methods.
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How did I use the product incorrectly?
What specifically did I not do? I used it as advertised on the site.
Engine Cleaner
HPL Engine Cleaner is designed for those who wish to clean deposits in their engines left behind from commodity type lubricants that are designed to “meet the spec.” Engine Cleaner is specially formulated and fortified with detergents and dispersants providing safe cleaning in the engine. When...
www.advlubrication.com
What specifically did I not do? I used it as advertised on the site.
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Keep your 3k interval. Don't stick with 1 brand of oil.
I'd run the synthetic oils from Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Rotella.... for the next several oil changes. Skip the seafoam. If you have leftover seafoam, toss it in the tank at the next fuel fill up. There are also HM synths from most brands too that you can rotate among.
And, what oil filter? how old is the PCV valve? how old is the thermostat?
I'd run the synthetic oils from Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Rotella.... for the next several oil changes. Skip the seafoam. If you have leftover seafoam, toss it in the tank at the next fuel fill up. There are also HM synths from most brands too that you can rotate among.
And, what oil filter? how old is the PCV valve? how old is the thermostat?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Do you want to clean it up or are you OK with how it sits and its level of oil consumption?
I ask because there are three routes available, two of them have been discussed, I believe the 3rd one has been touched-on, and as you progress from route 1 through to 3, the rate at which potential cleaning takes place increases, along with the level of risk.
These are as follows:
1. The EC, which you used. This is an extremely gentle product blended with esters and AN's to provide slow, safe cleaning. This is extremely low risk.
2. The HPL Oil, which you have not used. This is less gentle and will clean more aggressively. This requires vigilance with your filter, or it can load up and plug.
3. A dedicated chemical flush product, which leverages a solvent, of which there are many on the market. These are capable of rapid cleaning, but with that comes much higher risk of something going sideways, which is why they are generally not recommended on here.
On #3, there is a TON of marketing material out there, some of it masquerading as independent shop testing, for a variety of different brands with some pretty wild claims. Solvents aren't lubricants (Seafoam contains a mild solvent that flashes off rapidly, which is why it has low effectiveness) and so the risk of using one should be relatively obvious. They can however, rapidly remove deposits. Picture a Parts Washer in your engine.
I recently had the following video shared with me via DM. The discussion was about the credibility of many of these claims and the various inconsistencies, which, if you are an astute listener, will pick-up on when watching the video:
It does however cause one to raise an eyebrow as to the potential effectiveness, even if there is obvious risk to the process. For somebody not satisfies with a slow, progressive clean, I could see how this could garner some interest, particular if the engine is in not great condition.
I ask because there are three routes available, two of them have been discussed, I believe the 3rd one has been touched-on, and as you progress from route 1 through to 3, the rate at which potential cleaning takes place increases, along with the level of risk.
These are as follows:
1. The EC, which you used. This is an extremely gentle product blended with esters and AN's to provide slow, safe cleaning. This is extremely low risk.
2. The HPL Oil, which you have not used. This is less gentle and will clean more aggressively. This requires vigilance with your filter, or it can load up and plug.
3. A dedicated chemical flush product, which leverages a solvent, of which there are many on the market. These are capable of rapid cleaning, but with that comes much higher risk of something going sideways, which is why they are generally not recommended on here.
On #3, there is a TON of marketing material out there, some of it masquerading as independent shop testing, for a variety of different brands with some pretty wild claims. Solvents aren't lubricants (Seafoam contains a mild solvent that flashes off rapidly, which is why it has low effectiveness) and so the risk of using one should be relatively obvious. They can however, rapidly remove deposits. Picture a Parts Washer in your engine.
I recently had the following video shared with me via DM. The discussion was about the credibility of many of these claims and the various inconsistencies, which, if you are an astute listener, will pick-up on when watching the video:
It does however cause one to raise an eyebrow as to the potential effectiveness, even if there is obvious risk to the process. For somebody not satisfies with a slow, progressive clean, I could see how this could garner some interest, particular if the engine is in not great condition.
That's pretty impressive for a one time cleaning treatment. I noticed the oil pickup screen wasn't even dirty or blocked, so that stuff must basically liquify the deposits and not break it off in small chunks.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
That seems to be the claim, yes. I'd love to see somebody who doesn't have a relationship with BG (this guy obviously does) run the product though.
I highly doubt the guy "faked" the video. But yes would be interesting to see a BITOG member run that stuff and report results.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
There are some inconsistencies in the video (if you follow the audio), I don't think he faked it, but I also don't think this was unexpected.
And yes, while I'm not going to recommend the OP do this, I did want to present it as an available option.
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