I believe that Mitsubishi is using the same/similar CVTs as NISSAN(JATCO)???
How's your CVT holding up?
- Thread starter CharBaby
- Start date
Correct- JATCO supplies CVTs to Mitsubishi, FCA, GM, and Suzuki.
Hyundai, Honda, Toyota, Subaru, and Audi all make their own, I believe.
I thought that Hyundai/KIA made their own CVT(called IVT)?
Not the trans , fault I don' think. My Wife's Crosstrek is actually too fast around town and in the parking lot(!), but there is not much passing power on the highway. That engine seems tuned for economy compared to their older solid cam engines. She gets around 30 combined with hard driving. Not bad for a 3300 lb AWD wagon with an Automatic. Good thing with the Subaru is it locks up a mini fluid coupling at about 5mph in low range and never looks back. So no "slush box" major heat and efficiency loss - just the sheave and belt friction loss - and of course hydraulic pumping losses. Ill still take a manual. Cars these days interfere too much with good drivers as it is - sometimes causing accidents.
I had a 2014 Rogue Select ** for 60K miles. Worried about the trans and finding mud on the dipstick , I had the dealer do a change. They also did a re-flash which hurt performance and mileage ( this allowed the engine to rev higher under moderate load - where before it would stay around 2000-2500 and grunt it nicely) I drove this vehicle really hard, manually shifting it ( the OD off button and low range give you 3 "gears" . So for a peppy run its OD off, put in LOW (L), Start out accelerating, then upshift to D at about 4500 then hit the OD button when at cruising speed. Made it a bit more interactive, the trans responded well and shifted reasonably fast. It helped that the trans shifter handle and stalk was a solid piece and the OD button had good placement on the stick. I also DOWN shifted a lot for engine braking; by switching O.D. - OFF then shifting into low range at about 25 mph.
Result. No trans problems ( other than the reflash)
I would absolutely change the fluid before 15K miles to get the "wear-in" mud out of the hydraulic logic and spool valves.
then maybe 60K or 5 years there after.
- Ken
** Actually the Nissan Qashqai , a better, tighter and sporter platform than the full size rogue family hauler.
Result. No trans problems ( other than the reflash)
I would absolutely change the fluid before 15K miles to get the "wear-in" mud out of the hydraulic logic and spool valves.
then maybe 60K or 5 years there after.
- Ken
** Actually the Nissan Qashqai , a better, tighter and sporter platform than the full size rogue family hauler.
Can the dealer put back the other program that the tranny had before the reflash?
80,000 miles on my 2014 Suby Outback's CVT. No fluid changes, which is consistent with the owner's manual which does not specify any requirements to change the fluid. I might get the tranny fluid changed before too long.
Kestas
Staff member
2010 Murano with 120K. Fluid was changed once. No issues with the CVT. I take it easy off the line - no jackrabbit starts.
I don't think the fluid is as important as geared transmissions. There are no shift events to shed clutch material into the fluid.
I don't think the fluid is as important as geared transmissions. There are no shift events to shed clutch material into the fluid.
An interesting thought. I don't think that's the case, but I'd love to hear a technical discussion about it. Maybe @MolaKule would have some insight on whether or not the lack of clutch material would be enough to allow for a reduced lubricant quality in CVTs.
I find this so weird. All inspect but no definitive change. I worry about that. It does look like an inspect every 30k or 30 months. For me, it would be every 30 months since I am not driving a lot of miles at the moment so December will be 30 months for my 18 Legacy and January 2022 will be 30 months for my 19 Impreza.
They are shedding the shim-stack pusher belt and Sheave material. Lots of Metal particulate. Mine had metallic mud in the pan. But survived b/c when I saw that, I did an early dump. Don't want that stuff in the hydraulic logic.
Car is long gone traded now. I wish I had CARFAX subscription to check out if it ever had a trans replacement. I still have VIN #s for most of my cars. On CARFAX. You used to be able to back door CHEAT and get the info by loading a similar car model the typing ( substituting) your vin in the hyper text. They figured that out soon enough and blocked it.
Sly Fox. Boo!
Still running original cvt transmission at 355,000 miles on castrol transmax cvt fluid.Changed it out every 12k miles.
Does any carmaker state in the owner's manual that a CVT transmission's fluid needs to be changed every X-thousand miles? Toyota dealers in the greater Charlotte area tell me
1) it never needs to be changed
2) It is a sealed system and if I open it it will fail within 4 months.
3) It is good until over 200,000 miles and don't touch it.
All the above came from the service desk people from 3 dealerships; arguably NOT ACE certified mechanics, or maybe retired ones.
1) it never needs to be changed
2) It is a sealed system and if I open it it will fail within 4 months.
3) It is good until over 200,000 miles and don't touch it.
All the above came from the service desk people from 3 dealerships; arguably NOT ACE certified mechanics, or maybe retired ones.
Subaru states to inspect. If ours (Subaru) is a sealed system how would you inspect it? I'm assuming Toyotas are different?
They say it is sealed. My mechanic just used his socket wrench and undid the pan after he drained it through the plug and the nipple valve. There is a gasket, like everything else in the engine. So yeah it is sealed.
I don't have my Nissan's OM in front of me, but if you read the fine print for severe service, Nissan says to change the CVT fluid at something like every 30K miles.
Ahh. My old S4 is a "sealed system" and was told that the fluid was lifetime. I had it changed after maybe 10 - 11 years with less than 80k miles on it. I said I was gonna do it again at 100k. I said that 10 years ago and still haven't hit 100k. I don't drive it much. It's got a lot of issues and the change isn't exactly cheap. Something like $600 for parts, fluid and labor. That was even with using Amsoil ATF for $10/qt and not $30/qt for Audi ATF.They say it is sealed. My mechanic just used his socket wrench and undid the pan after he drained it through the plug and the nipple valve. There is a gasket, like everything else in the engine. So yeah it is sealed.
Best thing is do like I did and have it analyzed and see. I think Lubegard And Fuchs suggest every 15-20k. Thats a safe duration imho.
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