And $20+ for shipping, that's what kills it for me.
If they ever do free shipping I'd be down to try some 0w-16.
High Performance Lubricants - Your Favorite Products?
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And $20+ for shipping, that's what kills it for me.
If they ever do free shipping I'd be down to try some 0w-16.
I don't have the funds to do full HPL in all my vehicles, yet. Thanks to BITOG sale thread things I have a good stock of PP Euro L 5W-30 and Mobil FS 5W-30. Once those are used up maybe we'll see what happens. I'm not looking to do extended OCI's so no benefit there for me. The 2 really short trip vehicles I'd rather just replace oil earlier from GDI fuel concerns (and UOA's from them).
I liked the results from the EC30 from my visual, filter C&P's, and others experience also. I see what it helped clean from vehicles that were already on M1 or PP for a long time that didn't have the carbon type bits in the past.
I'm now using 1qt of PCMO 5W-30 with the above stocks since it has better cleaning abilities and a quality oil. I've done enough LubeGard BioTech and other additives over the years to try and help keep clean etc. I'd rather use a quality true oil product that I think will help achieve better results and protection. Daughter's 235k CRV oil now looks cleaner with over 2k on OCI than many other peoples I see with fresh oil change and less than 100k on them.
Daughters '08 CRV has some HPL Green in tranny, and will get drain and fills with it accordingly at whatever intervals for like 20k. Currently is DW-1, Maxlife red bottle, HPL Green from past D&F's.
Order a full case instead of just what you need for one oil change. Then, the BITOG discount will cancel out the $25.99 flat rate shipping. They do free shipping every day!
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
I spell your definition of shortcomings as b-e-e-f-i-n-g.
Wait - all the scientists here at BITOG say I weaken the additive sauce by blending.
My history since 1970 says otherwise.
In a nutshell.....
1) I wanted a little more than no No VII. Seems like a strange request - right?
2) I also wanted a batch of PAO to work with esters that exist in both different quart jugs.
3) Subie..... don't tell this one below to Pablo. Promise?
I'm going to blend a couple quarts of the No VII 10w30 with 2-1/2 quarts of Amsoil Euro 0w30.
My wife's Kia still sounded like a typewriter with the Amsoil 0w30 and I'm hoping the HPL 10w30 snuffs the tic-tic sound, right out of commission. No one here wants to give me more than $8 a quart for the Amsoil Euro 0w30, so I may-as-well keep it and use it..... but in a different fashion.
Pablo thinks I'm buying Amsoil SS 10w30 to accomplish this feat. Please don't tell him I'm blending this concoction using HPL. He may blow a gasket and I always appreciate all the help he's given me. You too!
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BrendanC
$100 site donor 2024
Every fluid in my truck is HPL minus the gasoline and brake fluid. but for a favorite product, it has to be their engine cleaner. i have seen first hand what it can pull out of a motor.
the fleet is transitioning to HPL, my truck is on HPL and the woman’s accord is on HPL.
the fleet is transitioning to HPL, my truck is on HPL and the woman’s accord is on HPL.
That's funny!
Mobil 1
HPL Supercar 0w30 in my B48 300+ HP engine JCW Countryman for 10,000 mile OCI's.
HPL 5w20 HDEO CK-4
HPL EURO No VII 5W-30
-Vanilla PCMO 5w-20 in both vehicles. Paid $11.23/quart shipped for the last two pails I’ve bought, seems like a great value. Now hoping to get ~20k miles out of a fill, time will tell.
-Differential life 75w-80 in both vehicles too.
Hoping to get onboard with the atf and cvt oils soon
-Differential life 75w-80 in both vehicles too.
Hoping to get onboard with the atf and cvt oils soon
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Question for the experts: all of HPL's products seem to favour moly over boron, except their Euro lineup which has almost no moly but uses boron instead.
My understanding of this was due to a chemistry clash between moly and the adpack used in the Euro line.
So does this mean that moly is their "preferred way of doing things" and offers a better oil whenever possible, or are there other reasons to prefer moly over boron (pricing?) etc.
My understanding of this was due to a chemistry clash between moly and the adpack used in the Euro line.
So does this mean that moly is their "preferred way of doing things" and offers a better oil whenever possible, or are there other reasons to prefer moly over boron (pricing?) etc.
The Euro 40 has a ton of moly...
Moly causes deposits, which is why euro add packs that passed manufacturers specs don't contain much of it, or they wouldn't pass.
BrendanC
$100 site donor 2024
not doubting you but do you have any proof of this?
I'll use what's left and probably won't be placing another order. Good stuff? Probably. But lack of any kind of certifications, high cost and shipping just doesn't math for a car under warranty getting less than 10K on the OLM. I'd never run the oil the distance to recoup my money, so it just doesn't make any sense, at least in my case. If I had a kid in college that I was worried about an annual oil change then maybe.
https://www.savantlab.com/documents/52/Q1_2014_TEOST_Technical_Brief.pdf
this is a deposit formation test that high moly oils are exempt from in certain viscosities as they fail it. the deposit formation tests are more stringent in euro manufacturer specs.
more here:
We've had quite a few good posts about the TEOST 33C test and whether it's relevant. Star polymer VII, very high levels of moly, concentration of VI, AO and base oils all play a role.
https://www.savantlab.com/testing-highlights/teost-turbo-test-method-evolution/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...n-for-deposits-with-teost-33c-or-moly.305163/
https://www.savantlab.com/testing-highlights/teost-turbo-test-method-evolution/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...n-for-deposits-with-teost-33c-or-moly.305163/
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