Factory Fill for God's Chariot - HPL Euro 0W-30 vs HPL No VII 5W-30

Joined
Apr 27, 2023
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435
Location
Franklin, TN
Forgive my tongue in cheek title...... In looking over the product data sheets on the HPL consumer site for their Euro 0W-30 and their Euro No VII 5W-30 (no 0w-30 available in No VII) it seems that their HTHS is very similar (3.520 for Euro and 3.566 for Euro No VII) and TBN is only slightly different with the edge going to Euro No VII. Assuming one does not live in a super frigid climate and is doing normal-ish drain intervals, is the difference in these 2 top tier oils a slightly different additive package and possibly No VII having slightly purer base composition? How would one go about acessing if they "need" (a very relative word regarding boutique oils) one of the other?
 
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Don’t bother your tender little heart. If you’re in the US, there is absolutely no difference in the two oils other than academic complaints. Other than the extremely rare 1-2 day anomalies, NOTHING in CONUS “needs” a 0wAnything. It’s either overzealous undereducated owners or manufacturers who’re looking to appear “proactive” by using 0wXX oils. Other than maybe the Yellowstone/Idaho area, nothing CONUS hits lower than -30*F more than once per decade.

I’ve tried other HPL oils including SuperCar 0w30, and No VII Euro 5w30 not only satisifes every temperature requirement, but it also provides the best balance of pumpability & protection. I actually drained SuperCar in November from my Ascent and refilled with No VII Euro 5w30 for winter. Protection against wear and dilution are always solid winners regardless of season. 😉
 
Don’t bother your tender little heart. If you’re in the US, there is absolutely no difference in the two oils other than academic complaints. Other than the extremely rare 1-2 day anomalies, NOTHING in CONUS “needs” a 0wAnything. It’s either overzealous undereducated owners or manufacturers who’re looking to appear “proactive” by using 0wXX oils. Other than maybe the Yellowstone/Idaho area, nothing CONUS hits lower than -30*F more than once per decade.

I’ve tried other HPL oils including SuperCar 0w30, and No VII Euro 5w30 not only satisifes every temperature requirement, but it also provides the best balance of pumpability & protection. I actually drained SuperCar in November from my Ascent and refilled with No VII Euro 5w30 for winter. Protection against wear and dilution are always solid winners regardless of season. 😉
Edited: Good info. I'm in TN and right now it's around 10 degrees F out which means I'm not driving anyway but rather posting on a motor oil forum with the heat set at 68 degrees. :)
 
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My whole house generator loved its 0-40 when it exercised last Sat. in low teens temps. Cranked right up with its 12 YO Odyssey battery.
 
Don’t bother your tender little heart. If you’re in the US, there is absolutely no difference in the two oils other than academic complaints. Other than the extremely rare 1-2 day anomalies, NOTHING in CONUS “needs” a 0wAnything. It’s either overzealous undereducated owners or manufacturers who’re looking to appear “proactive” by using 0wXX oils. Other than maybe the Yellowstone/Idaho area, nothing CONUS hits lower than -30*F more than once per decade.

I’ve tried other HPL oils including SuperCar 0w30, and No VII Euro 5w30 not only satisifes every temperature requirement, but it also provides the best balance of pumpability & protection. I actually drained SuperCar in November from my Ascent and refilled with No VII Euro 5w30 for winter. Protection against wear and dilution are always solid winners regardless of season. 😉
IDK, the upper Midwest and western high elevation areas as far south a New Mexico hit -20 to -30 often enough that I don’t think it’s unreasonable. HPL’s 0w-30s are significantly less viscous at lower temps. I’m of the opinion that cars need all the help they can get in subzero temps. Shrug.
 
I started my wife’s 24 Altima with ppcmo and my 21 Altima which has schaeffers 0-20. Hers you couldn’t even tell, mine hiccuped after it fired. If only hpl would get gf6 certified I would keep on running it to 60k instead of just this one time.
 
I started my wife’s 24 Altima with ppcmo and my 21 Altima which has schaeffers 0-20. Hers you couldn’t even tell, mine hiccuped after it fired. If only hpl would get gf6 certified I would keep on running it to 60k instead of just this one time.

I would think the example you just mentioned is more than enough to justify not solely concerning yourself with an API/GF6 rating solely.
 
I would think the example you just mentioned is more than enough to justify not solely concerning yourself with an API/GF6 rating solely.
In the rare event of an oil related issue I don’t need to give a manufacturer a way out. I’ll be back to it after warranty. My 18 running the same schaeffers started like a champ this morning. It’s an issue with my 21 and not the oil.
 
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