To add, I'd like to know if those trucks that had bearing damage also had neglected OCIs and ran the oil longer than it should have been ran.
High Performance Lubricants PCMO Series
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Fair point. Also, did they have statistically significant higher fuel or soot numbers. There’s plenty of unknowns and just blaming the oil blindly doesn’t tell the “why”.
Shel_B
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Why not the base oil(s)? If nothing else, the base oils are certainly part of the equation.
Sadly, this is true. A local engine builder went through over 20 engine failures, changing part manufacturers twice, before finally heeding my advice to switch the oil. No failures since then. Given the year or so of not able to market those engines, the damaged parts and time to repair, pulling time and resources from other projects, etc... I figure he lost (or missed out on) close to $600k in business because he was too stubborn to simply change the oil.
If oils are being used within their suggested service interval, I do not see how base oils can affect wear (to this extent).
Rotella T6 is now bad? Because it's been a solid player for a long, long time, unless I'm really confused? Hard to believe it is causing massive numbers of failures.
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I have a quick question… I have a stash of Premium Plus 0w30 and 5w40. Looking to try 40 weight in my oil burning CR-V, but concerned as we go into winter temps as low as 0F to occasionally -20F in Denver.
Should I switch to 5w40 now, mix in some ratio with 0w30, or stay with 0w30?
Should I switch to 5w40 now, mix in some ratio with 0w30, or stay with 0w30?
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my vote is 0w30
5w40 is still within its recommended range at -20F. Is the vehicle garaged or outdoors at those temps?
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Outdoors
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0w30 all day
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Doesn’t help the burning issue.
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But who is to say the 5w40 will help "enough" with burning.
I have been in those temps, and much colder, with cold starts, i ran 5w30 in my 5.3 tahoe, and it made a terrible racket. 0w30, no racket.
maybe a 0w40 might be better?
I would rather burn more and have a smoother startup, but thatbis just my opinion
Pour point has nothing to do with cold starting and oil pumpability. That's what the 'W" rating is for, to determine what multi-viscosity oil to use based on the coldest expected cold start-up temperature.
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I ordered this box of 12 quarts on Tuesday, got it today which is impressive since I live north of the border and that only took 3 days. Mary was a pleasure to deal with, I wanted two different types and she had no problem sending the mixed order across while also looking for a cheaper shipping option. Service like this builds a lifetime customer!
Anyway, I normally prefer a thicker oil in the summer while towing, hence the 5w-30 no vii, but I'm hearing a slight knock on a cold start at idle which the dealer said "is normal" and another mechanic said "change your oil back to spec and we'll listen again". So here I am, I'll be running the 5w-20 for the winter where its just on passenger car duty but will move back to the no vii 5w-30 for next summer (more than likely as I have no faith in the oil being the issue) when RV season picks up again. Worth mentioning that the noise I hear has been there probably since new, and has done it on several different oil brands (just want to be clear that I'm not suggesting the noise is due to HPL, the mechanic is concerned about the weight itself not the formula).
During a hot idle there is no sound whatsoever, it's buttery smooth. It's not an exhaust leak, this is more of a knock and less of a tick. My guess is piston slap?
Anyway, I normally prefer a thicker oil in the summer while towing, hence the 5w-30 no vii, but I'm hearing a slight knock on a cold start at idle which the dealer said "is normal" and another mechanic said "change your oil back to spec and we'll listen again". So here I am, I'll be running the 5w-20 for the winter where its just on passenger car duty but will move back to the no vii 5w-30 for next summer (more than likely as I have no faith in the oil being the issue) when RV season picks up again. Worth mentioning that the noise I hear has been there probably since new, and has done it on several different oil brands (just want to be clear that I'm not suggesting the noise is due to HPL, the mechanic is concerned about the weight itself not the formula).
During a hot idle there is no sound whatsoever, it's buttery smooth. It's not an exhaust leak, this is more of a knock and less of a tick. My guess is piston slap?
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Could also be the exhaust manifold starting to leak, they don't always tick, sometimes they sound more like a knock, depending. But yeah, could also be slap, but slap tends to be pretty consistent, regardless of oil selection. Good thing is that it's harmless.
I had that tick with my 95 pathfinder when the manifold bolt heads snapped off and caused the mainfolds to warp. I bought the car used that the problem after I bought it. First thought it was lifter tick and had lifters replaced, but in the end it didn't fix the problem.
Not that it is relevant to this discussion, but I ended up putting thorly headers on and the tick went away. A little more power, but better mpg. Couldn't complain.
Maybe a flick. Or a snap. Might be a tap.
That is crazy wear - WTH are they running the engine at? Would any **w-50 have held up?And some people don't think that HTHS and MOFT headroom matters ...
Which reminds me of the SFR thread - the pics show metal to metal galling/grinding due to the oil film being negligible at WOT or some such. This seems to make a case for oils that do well in the ball friction test or V block.
I run the 1971 413 in the pic at WOT for 5-10 minutes at a time with Castrol 20w-50 and glowing manifolds, as I'm sure the previous owner had. That's how we get up hills. Last I looked 2 years ago the one cap/shell I pulled was fine, and I'll be replacing the rear seal soon so I'll look again.
This sort of thing makes me question ever switching away from dino 20-50 unless data shows that any 10w-40 will hold up better and keep the journals off the shells...
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