High Performance Lubricants PCMO Series

A full sump of HPL PCMO cleans more aggressively than 1 quart of EC. Using only 1 quart of PP PCMO, the ester and AN content will be much more diluted and not as effective.
I'm a bit of a newb but I do have a question about this after buying both HPL EC 30 and their PCMO 5W30.....

Aside from cost, why do the HPL EC along with an off the shelf oil like M1 to "clean" if their normal PCMO 5W30 in 4.5qts for a full oil change would clean better?
 
I'm a bit of a newb but I do have a question about this after buying both HPL EC 30 and their PCMO 5W30.....

Aside from cost, why do the HPL EC along with an off the shelf oil like M1 to "clean" if their normal PCMO 5W30 in 4.5qts for a full oil change would clean better?

The HPL EC is designed for a transitional oil change. It will dissolve loose slowly and gradually, removing looser sludge to be filtered out. Then using HPL PCMO or HDMO afterward can do more aggressive cleaning without clogging the filter or having big chunks of sludge clog a pickup screen, oil galley, lifter bleed, etc...
 
The HPL EC is designed for a transitional oil change. It will dissolve loose slowly and gradually, removing looser sludge to be filtered out. Then using HPL PCMO or HDMO afterward can do more aggressive cleaning without clogging the filter or having big chunks of sludge clog a pickup screen, oil galley, lifter bleed, etc...

Good explanation! So, in essence, HPL EC is cleaning out the "low hanging fruit" chunks and sludge that if allowed to circulate with a low spec filter or long OCI would cause issues.....then HPL PCMO is more "aggressive" to get the more stubborn yet smaller stuff?
 
The HPL EC is designed for a transitional oil change. It will dissolve loose slowly and gradually, removing looser sludge to be filtered out. Then using HPL PCMO or HDMO afterward can do more aggressive cleaning without clogging the filter or having big chunks of sludge clog a pickup screen, oil galley, lifter bleed, etc...
Plus one quart of EC is significantly cheaper than a full sump of their oil.

Unless your engine has a severe sludge issue, I still think running a full sump of HPL for 5K is a more efficient approach.
 
Recently purchased an E93 with the S65 engine. These are notorious for rod bearing issues. Wondering if HPL has an oil they recommend for these motors? Factory specs 10W-60, a lot of people run Red Line 15W-50. Feels like a motor that could actually benefit from running a true best of the best oil.
 
Recently purchased an E93 with the S65 engine. These are notorious for rod bearing issues. Wondering if HPL has an oil they recommend for these motors? Factory specs 10W-60, a lot of people run Red Line 15W-50. Feels like a motor that could actually benefit from running a true best of the best oil.
If you have a specific question for HPL, then a PM or phone call works best.

David is extremely busy during racing season. He isn’t likely to see a posted question like this.

HPL has a lot of products that aren’t listed on their sales site, for example, a 75W transmission oil that is perfect for both my Volvo manual transmission and my Tundra transfer case.

A phone call or PM is really the way to go. He may have exactly what you’re looking for.
 
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I preferred HPL when I made my order to Amsoil. But HPL European 0w30 was only listed as SN Plus and not SP.

When I need to re-order oil next summer, I'll take another look at advlubrication.com for HPL 0w30 / SP cert.
 
I preferred HPL when I made my order to Amsoil. But HPL European 0w30 was only listed as SN Plus and not SP.

When I need to re-order oil next summer, I'll take another look at advlubrication.com for HPL 0w30 / SP cert.
Does your engine recommend SP? Which product line were you considering? It may already contain the d1G3 add pack but has additive levels higher than SP limits allow.

Personally speaking, I’d be more interested in a higher level of protection than meeting API SP; HPL has one of the premier chemists (I’ve heard Dr. Rudnick referred to as the Godfather of synthetic oils & additives) on their staff and they are taking appropriate measures to prevent LSPI, even if they’re referencing an “obsoleted” API category. You should call @High Performance Lubricants up and verify; they’re very open with information, help, and safe recommendations.

It’s in their interest to make sure you get the “best” product for your application; word of mount advertising (or negative information) has a massive impact on sales. HPL will treat you right!👍🏻

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/leslie-r-rudnick.355170/
 
Subie
I passed on the generic DI/G3 Signature 0w30 offering from Amsoil. I chose the more robust pack of the 0w30 European SOT.
It's geared more towards the wife's MPI 2.0.
My Hyundai 2.4 will likely get the 0w40 of Amsoil's or HPL. It's already digested QS Euro 5W40 SP, Mobil-1 FS 0w40 SP and Pennzoil Euro 0w40 SP.
 
Subie
I passed on the generic DI/G3 Signature 0w30 offering from Amsoil. I chose the more robust pack of the 0w30 European SOT.
It's geared more towards the wife's MPI 2.0.
My Hyundai 2.4 will likely get the 0w40 of Amsoil's or HPL. It's already digested QS Euro 5W40 SP, Mobil-1 FS 0w40 SP and Pennzoil Euro 0w40 SP.
I’m willing to bet that if you get ahold of David, you may find there is one oil that will protect both engines without worry… this will reduce the space you need on the shelf, and more importantly, enable some volume discounts for you (I.e. ordering a 5-gal pail or 4 gallons is cheaper per quart than two 6-qts). It’s worth a shot if you’re game.

Or if you want the simple, inexpensive always available route, Mobil 1 FS 0w40 will treat you right. 😉
 
I've already got the itch to use Dave's oils. Gonna' happen.... may turn out that the Kia stays with Amsoil and the GDI Hyundai eventually gets de-carboned from HPL. I mostly used SOPUS (Pennzoil) over the last 4-5 decades.

HPL & Amsoil brands will have the new look on my garage's oil shelf. Wife & I accumulate around $250 every 14-15 months in loose change. That's what goes for these boutique oils now. The Amsoil I purchased will last for two years in wife's low mileage Kia.
 
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I've already got the itch to use Dave's oils. Gonna' happen.... may turn out that the Kia stays with Amsoil and the GDI Hyundai eventually gets de-carboned from HPL. I mostly used SOPUS (Pennzoil) over the last 4-5 decades.

HPL & Amsoil brands will have the new look on my garage's oil shelf. Wife & I accumulate around $250 every 14-15 months in loose change. That's what goes for these boutique oils now. The Amsoil I purchased will last for two years in wife's low mileage Kia.
You won’t be disappointed with any of HPL’s oils. I’m on 2nd run of HPL NO VII 5w20. After it’s gone it will be HPL CK-4 5w30 since they don’t make a CK-4 5w20 oil sadly.
 
I've already got the itch to use Dave's oils. Gonna' happen.... may turn out that the Kia stays with Amsoil and the GDI Hyundai eventually gets de-carboned from HPL. I mostly used SOPUS (Pennzoil) over the last 4-5 decades.

HPL & Amsoil brands will have the new look on my garage's oil shelf. Wife & I accumulate around $250 every 14-15 months in loose change. That's what goes for these boutique oils now. The Amsoil I purchased will last for two years in wife's low mileage Kia.
I’m running HPL 0w20 super car in my Ram and Grand Caravan. The zero turn is next to get some 😉
 
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