High Detergents/TBN for shorter oci's

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Since I purchased HPL oil and I plan on keeping reasonable 5,000 miles oci 's, I wondered if there is any advantage to the high Detergents/TBN levels of this oil in a oci of this length?
Any possible disadvantages of going on the high side when not really necessary?
 
Since I purchased HPL oil and I plan on keeping reasonable 5,000 miles oci 's, I wondered if there is any advantage to the high Detergents/TBN levels of this oil in a oci of this length?
Any possible disadvantages of going on the high side when not really necessary?

I purchased the HPL passenger car oil. I ran it without a worry about anything.Be confident in your purchase and stop worrying and analyzing things so much.
 
I just switched to HPL last week in my MDX and will go 10,000 this first run. I’ll have it analyzed and make a determination from there. Based on others comments about their runs I know (suspect) I’ll be shortchanging it’s abilities but I’ve never run an oil that far before.
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I purchased the HPL passenger car oil. I ran it without a worry about anything.Be confident in your purchase and stop worrying and analyzing things so much.
It isn't a worry. I know it will work well. Just wondering if overkill is good or can it somehow be a bad thing other than $$ spent.

I read somewhere that high Detergentcy can work against ZDDP .
 
What is the advantage of HPL and running it 5,000 miles unless the miles are in a year or really severe short tripping then a lower cost oil would be the wiser choice.
Using one of the best in a vehicle with known engine issues. Also probably the same reason people use a Syn blend or Syn oil when they really wouldn't have to.
It will be short tripped mostly.
 
"A lot of folks misunderstand the logic for putting over-based metallic detergents in oil (the stuff that largely gives an oil its TBN & the bulk of its Ash). It has almost nothing to do with 'cleaning' or high sulphur fuels. The first 5 TBN is usually there for rust prevention as defined by the Ball Rust Test. This might get raised to about 8 TBN to neutralise the complex carboxylic acids that form when base oils oxidise as they get exposed to hot, reactive blow-by gas. Typically 8 TBN is way too much for oil in normal service but it would definitely all get used up in the severe industry oxidation tests like the Sequence IIIG.

There's no harm in buying oils with 10+ TBN but TBH, there's not a lot of benefit to be gained either. The fact is that modern base oils (Groups II/III/IV/V) are massively more resistant to oxidation than old fashioned Group Is. If they're not breaking down, then there's nothing for the detergent to neutralise, so any excess just sits in the oil, doing naff all, until it's time to throw the oil away."
 
Keep the OCI leftovers for OPE or reuse. I stained my 2nd trailer about a month ago with a 50% diesel mixture.
 
I don't see the point of running HPL for only 5K miles. Any synthetic oil sold at Walmart should serve you fine for such a conservative OCI.
 
In theory, more detergents might result in more friction, but I'm sure HPL uses a healthy dose of friction modifier to compensate for this.

There's also a phenomenon where calcium and magnesium detergents can form crystals that clog oil screens and filters, if an engine is left to sit without running for weeks with moisture in the sump. There's going to be an updated test in the upcoming ILSAC GF-7 test to address recent problems with this. It's an issue that cropped up during 2020 when a lot of people weren't driving as often, and mainly affected cars using Euro oils, which tend to be high in detergents.
 
Using one of the best in a vehicle with known engine issues. Also probably the same reason people use a Syn blend or Syn oil when they really wouldn't have to.
It will be short tripped mostly.
The only engine failure I have ever had was running Amsoil top of the line oil. The manufacture left off a cam shaft bushing which ate up the cover and Aluminum shavings clogged up the oil passage ways on a 800 mile round trip. Oil will not help engine issues.
 
Depends on your definition of help.
My definition of help in ZZMans situation (mine also) is the properties of top-tier HPL and/or Amsoil will increase the amount of time before that engine failure occurs, provided shortened OCIs remain.
But sure, the failure will still eventually occur. Keep the dipstick oil relatively clean and keep the dipstick mark at FULL.

My wife's Kia with Amsoil Euro 0w30 is still scheduled to be drained at 3k. But the Champ XL filter will remain on for another 3k.
 
Depends on your definition of help.
My definition of help in ZZMans situation (mine also) is the properties of top-tier HPL and/or Amsoil will increase the amount of time before that engine failure occurs, provided shortened OCIs remain.
But sure, the failure will still eventually occur. Keep the dipstick oil relatively clean and keep the dipstick mark at FULL.

My wife's Kia with Amsoil Euro 0w30 is still scheduled to be drained at 3k. But the Champ XL filter will remain on for another 3k.
Sufficient viscosity and frequent changes are the key to Hyundai and Kia engine longevity. No oil is going to prevent fuel dilution and hard abrasive carbon soot from wearing you engine, but getting that crud out by changing the oil will.
 
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