Dino Oil Engine With Fram filter!

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Originally Posted By: StevieC
Sorry about the cylinder head part, I thought you were talking about the picture of CH combustion side.
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As for the varnish... Out of all the engines my dad & I have taken apart and rebuilt or replaced parts in etc. (Tons of these ones in that mix).

We have never seen varnish causing a problem. Sludge/buildup yes, but not varnish. (In the areas that stress oil)


My buddy's high mileage 302 was pretty varnished up. No sludge. He had run GTX for most of the car's tenure under his ownership.

It had stuck rings on 5 of the 8 cylinders.

Different engines respond differently. Ford has been using low-tension rings since the mid-80's, and I imagine they "stick" from varnish/deposits a lot more readily.
 
Varnish buildup can reduce clearances. Also, varnish is indicative as to other potential issues IMO.

I already said this, "And before anyone tries to extrapolate nonsense from that comment, no I am not arguing that varnish implies the engine is near death or anything along those lines. Yes, many varnished engines last a very long time. Yay. I do not like varnish, I prefer my engines to have no varnish."

I am not arguing that varnish will kill an engine, only that I prefer not to have it.
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I could run some ARX through it, but with the compression numbers we saw it doesn't look like there is a problem... Thanks for the info!
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
I could run some ARX through it, but with the compression numbers we saw it doesn't look like there is a problem... Thanks for the info!
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Judging by what came out in my last oil filter, I'd say a run or two of M1 5w20 might do just as well, and perhaps cost less?
 
I have a jug of 5w20 M1 I could put in this engine when we fill it back up...
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Maybe that's what I will do...
 
Who cares how it looks if it performs within spec. Also it only looks that bad because of the OCI's and choice of oil used IMO.
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Originally Posted By: RISUPERCREWMAN
I don't think the engine looks clean at all.......


As I see it, he's not saying it's clean. He's saying it's not as filthy as people would expect it to be......
 
Originally Posted By: fillitup
i have been told that the bottom end on those engines are really strong .


Its true. The rod and main bearing diameters are identical to the RB v8 family (413, 440, 426 Hemi, etc.). The crank is also a little shorter since it only has to have one conrod on each throw instead of 2 like the v8, so the crank may actually be slightly stronger than the v8s. But since half the number of cylinders are applying all the power, what tends to fail first when you crank up the boost and get 400+ HP out of a 2.2/2.5 are:

1) head gaskets
2) head bolts
3) connecting rods
3) pistons (especially if you ever let it go lean under boost)
 
As hard as it is to follow that pearl of wisdom, its great to see the pics and see that dino/Fram are effective. I think there is a legitimate question though:

Is this engine "easy" on oil? From everything on this site, I have gathered there are engines that strain, or "sludge", oil more than others. Would this OCI with Fram produce similar results on a "sludger" engine??

Just food for thought?!
 
Originally Posted By: Xman77
As hard as it is to follow that pearl of wisdom, its great to see the pics and see that dino/Fram are effective. I think there is a legitimate question though:

Is this engine "easy" on oil? From everything on this site, I have gathered there are engines that strain, or "sludge", oil more than others. Would this OCI with Fram produce similar results on a "sludger" engine??

Just food for thought?!


6k conventional oil changes on my 1MZ-FE motor would be asking for trouble.
 
Originally Posted By: bigmanoncampus
Trust me any vehicle does not know if the oil in it is. Conventional or synthetic.

My Santa Fe has challenged me on this numerous times and isn't afraid to tell me about her preference either!
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Originally Posted By: bigmanoncampus
Trust me any vehicle does not know if the oil in it is. Conventional or synthetic.
Some do. Ever notice some syn users get 5+ mpgs improvement
 
Just found out the Waterpump on that engine is also a problem so we will be changing it.

No doubt the Dino/Fram combo caused that too...
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Originally Posted By: crazycrak
Hey that looks like the engine in my car. nice its quite a bit cleaner than mine
We done cleaned it with some degreaser first because the rocker cover was a leakin' something fierce and made a messy-poo all over the front of the engine!
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Looked like someone sprayed it with Hershey Chocolate Syrup.
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when I had my engines class in tech school about 10 years ago, we had to disassemble an engine, measure everything, put it back together, and then run it. Well, my partner and I got to do a chrysler 2.2, or maybe it was a 2.5, don't quite remember. It was rigged up with a carburator and didn't have the turbo on it anymore. Now bear in mind, these engines had probably been apart 100 times before we got to work on it, and the school being as cheap as they were, would reuse the old oil we drained out of the engines before disassembly. When we put it back together, we would sit them on floor and hide behind a couple work benches while the teacher held them wide open with a string attached to the throttle, with no coolant in the engines at all, as he liked to try and blow them up, or see how long they would run anyways. I think he had inhaled a bit to many exhaust fumes. Anyways, we ran ours, and never did get it to blow. I was truly impressed. Another group did a SOHC 1.6 honda, which at the time I thought was the pinacle of engineering. It probably lasted half as long as ours. It welded the rod bearings fast to the crank and poked 2 of the rods through the block.
 
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