Wee wee. (How you say afirmative in France)Affirmative!
Wee wee. (How you say afirmative in France)Affirmative!
Just a bit of an overreaction.Is this a serious question?!?! I’m completely mindblown. Common sense is NOT common anymore. WOW, JUST WOW!!!
My Hyundai is warm blooded. But not a mammal as it does not suckle its young.My Accent with the iron block 1.6L is a terribly cold blooded engine. OE it comes with a 180F tstat but it seldom would run that when really cold. And no real good heat unless above that. I put in a 192F tstat and that gives great heat but still it takes a long time to get to the opening temp of 188F.
With the manual transmission, any time you coast in gear or drive around town you will lose 10F, so I lug it when cold as someone else said and coast in neutral when coming to a stop. Only has 3.2 qt of oil to stat with.
When really cold into the single and negative digits I will completely cover the front of the radiator. Until it starts hitting 50F then it is half covered. The jiggle valve in the tstat I plug too. Found this makes a noticeable difference when warming up from cold.
It helps to think in terms of percent.It should heat up faster because there is a smaller mass of oil to be brought up to a certain temperature; by some fast calculations it takes 100+ watts of energy to bring 1L/qt. of oil from ambient to operating temperature.
Will it overheat? The oil cooling capacity should be the same because, the same amount of oil will flow and get in contact with the engine, there is just a smaller puddle in the oil pan. Thermal inertia is definitely lower.
OCI will have to be shorter, but it would also be cheaper.
This seems like a really good idea for a short-triper. Am I missing something?
In my case; my old Honda had a min-max of 2.5-3.5 and i've always just bought and poured in 3 bottles of whatever was on sale @ 6 month OCI (2-6k miles). The engine is tip-top, but the car is totaled . Now, my new Toyota has a min-max of 2.7-4.2 sooo I could do 3 bottles (which feels low) or I could do 4 bottles at ?... 6 month...1year... 6k miles... 10k miles... I don't know.
Just a bit of an overreaction.
Have you thought about decaf?
Or to suck up into the valvetrain/cam phasers under high RPM. I have actually seen timing codes set with oil just at or below the minimum because the cam phasers wouldn't get enough oil at high RPM to retard the timing.1. Better cooling.
2. More oil means more cleaning, more volume to absorb deposits.
3. Less possibility to lose pressure in aggressive cornering.
Yep. It depends on the engine; some are more sensitive, and some are not. If warming up fast is imperative, good ole practice of running HVAC on cold first few minutes will do more than running sump on min.Or to suck up into the valvetrain/cam phasers under high RPM. I have actually seen timing codes set with oil just at or below the minimum because the cam phasers wouldn't get enough oil at high RPM to retard the timing.
Or to suck up into the valvetrain/cam phasers under high RPM. I have actually seen timing codes set with oil just at or below the minimum because the cam phasers wouldn't get enough oil at high RPM to retard the timing.
Ask GM. They say to run up to a quart over on LSX engines for track use because of how quickly the pump evacuates the pan at high RPM.
I ran mine right at the line or a half quart over even when ran as a daily just because I still tended to put my foot into it regularly.True, I remember when I first got my 98 Corvette, it's owner's manual said to run one quart over for track events, so in my mind I figured then it would be totally safe to run it like that all the time. So the entire 9 years I owned that car I ran it one quart over capacity, and I saw no issues from doing that (didn't seem to hurt the power level either, as it ran pretty quickly in the quarter mile, with it's best time being a 12.81 at 109.4 in the quarter mile)