Valvoline restore and protect ford 3.7

Can you guys tell the difference between a steinway and yamaha grand piano? Because professional and amateur pianists can, all without using scientific testing.

Subtle differences in sound are easily perceptible to those who know what they are listening for.

Some people probably cannot. 4% of the population are born with amusia and lack certain abilities to discern sound. Up to 15% of the population have trouble reproducing pitch accurately.

It would be a bit like a colorblind person saying you can’t tell the ripeness of a tomato or the degree of done-ness of a steak simply by looking at it.
 
Nothing is special about me. Noteworthy, however is my incredulity about the fact that so much common knowledge is seemingly unheard of here.
Yes but you're special as you've noted multiple times in multiple threads. Not so for the average Joe that may not be able to remember sounds like you.
 
Well it's going to o be hard for any of us to believe any of your story when you're saying a water pump that's external leaked coolant into the oil system which it isn't connected to. It's physically not possible.
There is a tsb about a check valve that can cause the water pump to fail but it only leaks externally. Nothing on a google search about internal leaks on these mustang 3.7s. The problem you are claiming to have had is well documented on Taurus, Edge and explorers but nothing at all on the Mustang or trucks.
Maybe the water pump went out, the vehicle was driven hot and it warped a head or blew the head gasket.
 
... .

Cool whatever...but valvoline R&P might just be the new marvel mystery oil...or the graphite oil the boomers raved about, what was it called Arco?
Many "boomers" here will tell you that ARCO Graphite is nothing special - not much raving going on at all - then or now.
 
So a little back story, I go to the states every month and I often bring back oil due to the discounted prices...pucked up 2 jugs and decided to try the new valvoline restore and protect 5w30.

Before I continue, I'm not some paid spokesperson or whatever I'm just some regular car guy who ultimately just wants his engine to run great and improve mileage whatever way I can without going full hypermiler...I mean if valvoline wants to sponsor some random dude on a forum then by all means whatever makes my bank account look happier...anyway

Few things to note about the ford 3.7 cyclone and 5.0 coyote engines...they can have lifter tick issues, rod bearing issues, piston slap etc and before anyone asks why I'm not using the oem recommended 5w20...my elderly neighbor is a jack of all trades but an actual master of all, does his OCI's at 3k miles with 5w20 for his cars because "as soon as you feel the oil lose its optimal lubricity on your finger tips, it's time to change" and based on the experiments I tried in my mustang with the old engine and diff brands of 5w20 and 5w30...dude is right, the 5w30's held its lubricity up to about 5k-6k miles while the various 5w20's I tried pretty much lost its lubricity at 2500-3500 miles...plus I notice zero difference in fuel economy with the 5w30 and I'm just not comfortable knowing that as the oil is being used before being changed, it will shear down no matter what...so 5w20 is a no go...also i use 5w30 because of fleets with 2.7, 3.5 ecoboost and 3.7 cyclone engines having less timing component related issues by using 5w30 instead of oem recommended 5w20 which is pretty much just for fuel economy standards to satisfy the epa...now onto the valvoline R&P doing it's initial magic.

I changed my 182k mile 3.7 v6 due to the waterpump leaking internally and contaminating the oil which ate up the rod bearings...found a brand new rebuilt but never run engine that sat in a garage for 2 years and slapped it in since it was the same cost as getting the higher mileage OG engine rebuilt, broke it in with 2 oil changes with Castrol edge 5w30 syn changed at 1000 miles no sparkles in oil, then supertech 5w30 syn changed at 3000 miles no sparkles in oil. Now running valvoline restore and protect 5w30 as of yesterday morning

Since the new engine was put in I had a lifter tick on start up that would go away after 2-3 min of warming up...with the valvoline after the first start up I had the lifter tick...but it immediately quieted down within 10 seconds, before it was a 10/10 noise wise, after valvo oil its at about a 5/10 noise level, drove it around for 20 min and shut it off, went to a buddies place later on at night and engine is stone cold, started it up and lifter tick is now at a 3/10 noise level, also the engine is definitely more quieter once fully warmed up and its really noticeable how much quieter it is because i have longtube headers and catted x pipe going to stock mufflers...I don't know the science behind it but I guess the molybdenum content makes the oil more slippery? Allowing the lifters to pump up easier? Or some magic sauce in the valvo R&P?

I'll update the thread with my rural country road gas mileage commute to see if any improvements normally I average 22mpg.

But now I have a question...while I can go to the states and get it at Walmart, is there anything within that same price range as valvo r&p that I can get here in canada with the same characteristic? I've heard liqui moly molygen is a decent alternative and I have used it in an 04 impala ss and saw a 2 mpg overall increase in mileage as well as my engine not having to work as hard idling based on the vacuum/boost gauge but would prefer something in the valvo R&P price range since I do 5k mile oci's...please don't tell me to get Castrol or mobil one or pennzoil...while my stang doesn't burn oil those oils always burned the most out of any brand I've tried in my other cars...I could probably Start another thread listing the oils that burned the most and least in my 2016 golf 1.8 tsi
Glad I read this post. I saw the Valvoline R & P video on YT and planned on using it next oil change. What I wanted to do was add a friction reducer/nano metal coating oil additive as well but was wondering how the oil might wear down the metal coating. I hear a ticking from my engine now so I will check the sound first.
 
Glad I read this post. I saw the Valvoline R & P video on YT and planned on using it next oil change. What I wanted to do was add a friction reducer/nano metal coating oil additive as well but was wondering how the oil might wear down the metal coating. I hear a ticking from my engine now so I will check the sound first.

Stay far far away from that oil additive, it's not going to do anything of any benefit and may even be detrimental.
 
We don't even know which one so how can we comment?

All of those oil additives are useless, it really doesn't matter what brand it is. There is no magic "friction reducing" coating you can put into your engine. Just like Slick 50 and Duralube, they are all useless junk.
 
All of those oil additives are useless, it really doesn't matter what brand it is. There is no magic "friction reducing" coating you can put into your engine. Just like Slick 50 and Duralube, they are all useless junk.
Used SLICK 5O for engine and transmission many years ago . The '86 CHEVY Nova ( Corolla ) with the 1.6 Ltr. engine reached 260,000+ miles of harsh driving . Would add every 33,0000 mile . The engine went before the 3 speed automatic transmission . Haven't used any additive for about 20 years , did switch to full synthetics for engine and tranny about 20 years ago .
 
Last edited:
Used SLICK 5O for engine and transmission many years ago . The '86 CHEVY Nova ( Corolla ) reached 260,000+ miles of harsh driving . Would add every 33,0000 mile . The engine went before the 3 speed automatic transmission . Haven't used any additive since for about 20 years .
My bet is that you would have had the same result with or without Slick 50. But without it you would have had more money in your wallet. Those products are all snake oil.
 
seems to me if a additive is beneficial, would not the engine oil manufacture use it in the first place and blend it into the formulation, as most if not all engine oils are already carefully blended with the proper ingredients in them.
 
I can tell the clearance in my worn out swaybar links is larger than it was 6 months ago. I also think the rear is wearing quicker than the front. I sit in this car 15 hours or more a week. Of course I can tell something has changed, and a real time A-B comparison is not needed.

Musicians can make comparisons about the tone of instruments they are familiar with, with years in between, with high accuracy. And tuning accurately by ear is completely commonplace from what I have seen. ( musicians in family, friends, etc.)

I was an average mechanic, nothing special, but what I learned was from much more experienced and talented guys:
Is the shops I worked in years ago,
Everyone would use a manometer to synch carbs, but final fine adjustment was done by ear. This was commonly done, nothing special.

Final idle mixture was also done by ear.

The six senses are very valuable in any mechanics, in my view.

It’s not accurate to demean this, or the experience of those who recount their experience.


And further,
Those who do, only betray their own ignorance and lack of experience in my view.
85% of the techs I’ve worked with, including myself can’t hear ****!

Lubies impact go ugga dugga! And every time it does we lose a percentage of our hearing 🤣
 
Used SLICK 5O for engine and transmission many years ago . The '86 CHEVY Nova ( Corolla ) with the 1.6 Ltr. engine reached 260,000+ miles of harsh driving . Would add every 33,0000 mile . The engine went before the 3 speed automatic transmission . Haven't used any additive for about 20 years , did switch to full synthetics for engine and tranny about 20 years ago .
And yet I have way more miles than that in all my old cars and haven't ever used an additive. My old ECHO runs up to near redline quite a bit considering it is only 1.5l.
 
Back
Top