Valvoline restore and protect ford 3.7

Yes, of course, all human observations are inherently subjective. The notion that a human is not capable of discerning a change in volume or sound pitch, though, is dubious to me.

I understand people can be mistaken. I don’t think they always are on this particular topic.
No doubt that the human ear can discern differences in sound. The issue here is the sampling method along with too many variables. You can't compare used oil to new so it's new to new or old to old. Either way for most people there are months in between those 2 moments in time. Can you really tell me you can remember exactly how loud something was 3 months ago? Not to mention variables of environmental conditions, surroundings, even condition of the vehicle itself.
 
No doubt that the human ear can discern differences in sound. The issue here is the sampling method along with too many variables. You can't compare used oil to new so it's new to new or old to old. Either way for most people there are months in between those 2 moments in time. Can you really tell me you can remember exactly how loud something was 3 months ago? Not to mention variables of environmental conditions, surroundings, even condition of the vehicle itself.
I believe my experience was accurately observed. The change was immediate and substantial in my particular application, and corroborated by my wife’s independent observation.

You may not believe it, and that’s fine.
 
No doubt that the human ear can discern differences in sound. The issue here is the sampling method along with too many variables. You can't compare used oil to new so it's new to new or old to old. Either way for most people there are months in between those 2 moments in time. Can you really tell me you can remember exactly how loud something was 3 months ago? Not to mention variables of environmental conditions, surroundings, even condition of the vehicle itself.
Exactly what I’ve always thought. Some people must have a hecka acoustical memory.
 
I’ve had musician friends able to tune instruments by ear. I certainly can’t do that. But I do drive my vehicle 30k miles per year and know every squeak, rattle, vibration, etc. I can instantly tell when something is different. On the other hand people drive around with brakes metal to metal and don’t know. 😂
 
Could find this of interest . Scroll down for a look .

 
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Alright so I just did the typical Sunday morning commute, pretty much rural country roads with a few stop lights...not driving for economy, just driving how I normally do, filled at the pump, drove then came back and filled up again and did MUH CALCULATIONS...typically I average 22 mpg give or take 1 mpg depending on if I do a few 7k rpm rips for sunday morning commute...I just averaged....drumroll please

26.7 U.S MPG

alright now I'll leave it to you boys and girls to discuss and argue why MUH MOBIL MUH CASTROL MUH PENNZOIL IZ ZE BEST OIL NEIN NEIN NEIN, MEIN OIL ANALYSIS

Cool whatever...but valvoline R&P might just be the new marvel mystery oil...or the graphite oil the boomers raved about, what was it called Arco?
that arco graphite oil was nothing special and you could never tell when it was dirty. it stayed in my car for only one change
 
So a little back story, I go to the states every month and I often bring back oil due to the discounted prices...pucked up 2 jugs and decided to try the new valvoline restore and protect 5w30.

Before I continue, I'm not some paid spokesperson or whatever I'm just some regular car guy who ultimately just wants his engine to run great and improve mileage whatever way I can without going full hypermiler...I mean if valvoline wants to sponsor some random dude on a forum then by all means whatever makes my bank account look happier...anyway

Few things to note about the ford 3.7 cyclone and 5.0 coyote engines...they can have lifter tick issues, rod bearing issues, piston slap etc and before anyone asks why I'm not using the oem recommended 5w20...my elderly neighbor is a jack of all trades but an actual master of all, does his OCI's at 3k miles with 5w20 for his cars because "as soon as you feel the oil lose its optimal lubricity on your finger tips, it's time to change" and based on the experiments I tried in my mustang with the old engine and diff brands of 5w20 and 5w30...dude is right, the 5w30's held its lubricity up to about 5k-6k miles while the various 5w20's I tried pretty much lost its lubricity at 2500-3500 miles...plus I notice zero difference in fuel economy with the 5w30 and I'm just not comfortable knowing that as the oil is being used before being changed, it will shear down no matter what...so 5w20 is a no go...also i use 5w30 because of fleets with 2.7, 3.5 ecoboost and 3.7 cyclone engines having less timing component related issues by using 5w30 instead of oem recommended 5w20 which is pretty much just for fuel economy standards to satisfy the epa...now onto the valvoline R&P doing it's initial magic.

I changed my 182k mile 3.7 v6 due to the waterpump leaking internally and contaminating the oil which ate up the rod bearings...found a brand new rebuilt but never run engine that sat in a garage for 2 years and slapped it in since it was the same cost as getting the higher mileage OG engine rebuilt, broke it in with 2 oil changes with Castrol edge 5w30 syn changed at 1000 miles no sparkles in oil, then supertech 5w30 syn changed at 3000 miles no sparkles in oil. Now running valvoline restore and protect 5w30 as of yesterday morning

Since the new engine was put in I had a lifter tick on start up that would go away after 2-3 min of warming up...with the valvoline after the first start up I had the lifter tick...but it immediately quieted down within 10 seconds, before it was a 10/10 noise wise, after valvo oil its at about a 5/10 noise level, drove it around for 20 min and shut it off, went to a buddies place later on at night and engine is stone cold, started it up and lifter tick is now at a 3/10 noise level, also the engine is definitely more quieter once fully warmed up and its really noticeable how much quieter it is because i have longtube headers and catted x pipe going to stock mufflers...I don't know the science behind it but I guess the molybdenum content makes the oil more slippery? Allowing the lifters to pump up easier? Or some magic sauce in the valvo R&P?

I'll update the thread with my rural country road gas mileage commute to see if any improvements normally I average 22mpg.

But now I have a question...while I can go to the states and get it at Walmart, is there anything within that same price range as valvo r&p that I can get here in canada with the same characteristic? I've heard liqui moly molygen is a decent alternative and I have used it in an 04 impala ss and saw a 2 mpg overall increase in mileage as well as my engine not having to work as hard idling based on the vacuum/boost gauge but would prefer something in the valvo R&P price range since I do 5k mile oci's...please don't tell me to get Castrol or mobil one or pennzoil...while my stang doesn't burn oil those oils always burned the most out of any brand I've tried in my other cars...I could probably Start another thread listing the oils that burned the most and least in my 2016 golf 1.8 tsi
Finger test........hmmmmm
 
I noticed Mobil 1 made a K24A noisier before I ever heard other people talking about it. As far as I am concerned, that confirmed to me that the phenomenon is real.
Mobil1and Valvoline (0W20) made my K24Z2 engine run noisier as well. I switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and the noise went away. I am super happy with the way it works with this oil.
 
Lots of bucket tappet engine experience here, for better or worse. They can definitely make noise if the clearance is close to limits or is out. Shim adjustment are obviously never perfect clearance, always just an acceptable range. Viscosity and other factors can definitely change volume and perceived noise level, even when clearance is technically correct and in range. BTW, we routinely called them lifters in the shops I worked in. Not agreeing with OP, just that some of the comments in the dog pile are incorrect in my view.
Maybe if he chose a 15w-50 over the 5w-20 recommended vis. Maybe ...

I've owned two of these engines in civilian vehicles; my son also owned one.
I've also driven them in LEO service (Taurus and Explorer).
I've been around these aplenty ... under "normal" and "severe LEO" use

DAMB, in the Cyclone n/a engines when properly shimmed, is super quiet. It is possible (though unlikely) that his engine valve clearance was improperly set up at the factory; too much clearance for one or more of the buckets. But if this is the case, no oil is going to quiet that noise, if it's present as he claims. Bottom line is that oil selection generally won't cause the claimed noise problem in DAMB, and it won't make it go away, either.
 
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No doubt that the human ear can discern differences in sound. The issue here is the sampling method along with too many variables. You can't compare used oil to new so it's new to new or old to old. Either way for most people there are months in between those 2 moments in time. Can you really tell me you can remember exactly how loud something was 3 months ago? Not to mention variables of environmental conditions, surroundings, even condition of the vehicle itself.
It's a ridiculous notion that how different oils sound, look as far as color, smell, taste, or feel between the fingers have any meaningful value.
 
I can tell the clearance in my worn out swaybar links is larger than it was 6 months ago. I also think the rear is wearing quicker than the front. I sit in this car 15 hours or more a week. Of course I can tell something has changed, and a real time A-B comparison is not needed.

Musicians can make comparisons about the tone of instruments they are familiar with, with years in between, with high accuracy. And tuning accurately by ear is completely commonplace from what I have seen. ( musicians in family, friends, etc.)

I was an average mechanic, nothing special, but what I learned was from much more experienced and talented guys:
Is the shops I worked in years ago,
Everyone would use a manometer to synch carbs, but final fine adjustment was done by ear. This was commonly done, nothing special.

Final idle mixture was also done by ear.

The six senses are very valuable in any mechanics, in my view.

It’s not accurate to demean this, or the experience of those who recount their experience.


And further,
Those who do, only betray their own ignorance and lack of experience in my view.
 
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Can you guys tell the difference between a steinway and yamaha grand piano? Because professional and amateur pianists can, all without using scientific testing.

Subtle differences in sound are easily perceptible to those who know what they are listening for.

 
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