Needless to say a family member put straight 30wt oil into the farm tractor after I told them to go get some 10w-30 for the winter. The dealer said straight 30wt was better...... So should I dump the straight 30wt out and put in the 10w-30? How much more thick is straight 30wt than 10w-30 HDEO in the winter? I know nothing about straight weight oils. How do straight weight oils stack up to multi-grade, especially during winter?
Deere Dealer recommended 30wt for winter use...
- Thread starter volk06
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I don't know how I still have this. It's a calculated viscosity/temp chart that I think AudiJunkie made back in '05/'06 with the Delo SAE30 $.99/gallon sale.
As you can see, it get's pretty thick. However, in the case of the Delo, it has a pour point of -24*F, which is pretty cool for a straight weight.
FWIW, I still have Delo SAE30 in my wife's Maxx, with a bit of MMO added when it started to get colder. I didn't have time to change yet, but will in the next day or two.
Delo SAE 30
40c 105 cSt
10c(50f): 726.5 cSt
5c(41f): 1102.3
0c(32f): 1731
-5c(23f): 2825.4
-10c(14f): 4809.1
-15c(5f): 8575.7
-20c(-4f): 16100.7
As you can see, it get's pretty thick. However, in the case of the Delo, it has a pour point of -24*F, which is pretty cool for a straight weight.
FWIW, I still have Delo SAE30 in my wife's Maxx, with a bit of MMO added when it started to get colder. I didn't have time to change yet, but will in the next day or two.
Delo SAE 30
40c 105 cSt
10c(50f): 726.5 cSt
5c(41f): 1102.3
0c(32f): 1731
-5c(23f): 2825.4
-10c(14f): 4809.1
-15c(5f): 8575.7
-20c(-4f): 16100.7
I also wanted to add, that before pulling the motor a few years ago, I started one of my Jeeps with Delo SAE30 at 20-something degrees. Oil started flowing from the rockers fairly quickly.
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
I don't know how I still have this. It's a calculated viscosity/temp chart that I think AudiJunkie made back in '05/'06 with the Delo SAE30 $.99/gallon sale.
As you can see, it get's pretty thick. However, in the case of the Delo, it has a pour point of -24*F, which is pretty cool for a straight weight.
FWIW, I still have Delo SAE30 in my wife's Maxx, with a bit of MMO added when it started to get colder. I didn't have time to change yet, but will in the next day or two.
Delo SAE 30
40c 105 cSt
10c(50f): 726.5 cSt
5c(41f): 1102.3
0c(32f): 1731
-5c(23f): 2825.4
-10c(14f): 4809.1
-15c(5f): 8575.7
-20c(-4f): 16100.7
Can you explain this a little further? How does it compare to T5?
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_Local_TDS_United_States_Shell_Rotella_T5_10W-30_%28CJ-4%29_%28en-US%29_TDS_v1.pdf
I don't know how I still have this. It's a calculated viscosity/temp chart that I think AudiJunkie made back in '05/'06 with the Delo SAE30 $.99/gallon sale.
As you can see, it get's pretty thick. However, in the case of the Delo, it has a pour point of -24*F, which is pretty cool for a straight weight.
FWIW, I still have Delo SAE30 in my wife's Maxx, with a bit of MMO added when it started to get colder. I didn't have time to change yet, but will in the next day or two.
Delo SAE 30
40c 105 cSt
10c(50f): 726.5 cSt
5c(41f): 1102.3
0c(32f): 1731
-5c(23f): 2825.4
-10c(14f): 4809.1
-15c(5f): 8575.7
-20c(-4f): 16100.7
Can you explain this a little further? How does it compare to T5?
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_Local_TDS_United_States_Shell_Rotella_T5_10W-30_%28CJ-4%29_%28en-US%29_TDS_v1.pdf
Wow! That T5 looks outstanding.
The pour point is a whopping -43.6*F.
The chart was made to give an idea of the thickness of the straight weight at colder than tested temps (SAE30 is not tested for Winter).
What conditions will the tractor see? In a barn? Field?
Possibly plugged in? What's the frequency of use?
The 10W30 will definitely be better than a SAE30, as far as ease of starting goes. Depending on the answers above, it might be worth changing it out.
The pour point is a whopping -43.6*F.
The chart was made to give an idea of the thickness of the straight weight at colder than tested temps (SAE30 is not tested for Winter).
What conditions will the tractor see? In a barn? Field?
Possibly plugged in? What's the frequency of use?
The 10W30 will definitely be better than a SAE30, as far as ease of starting goes. Depending on the answers above, it might be worth changing it out.
Don't use SAE 30 in the winter in Iowa unless you intend to use a oil pan heater when you start it cold. You would be much better off with some HDEO 10W-30 or even the Rotella T5 syn blend for it's improved cold flow. Heck I would use a 5W-40 like Rotella T6 year round and forget seasonal oil changes altogether. SAE 30 is an old oil spec and cheap to produce. There are better oils for about the same price as the SAE 30. The idea behind using an SAE 30 is that the oil is more shear stable, having no viscosity index improvers (polymers) to shear down over time, leaving you with a much lower viscosity oil to protect your engine. Unless an SAE 30 oil gets thinned down by fuel making it's way into the oil sump, then it should remain an SAE 30 while in the engine. But at almost any engine-starting temp and esp at below freezing temps, it does not flow as well. Today's HDEO 10W-30 oils are decently shear stable and will serve you well. My choice would be the T5 10W-30. It was $12/gallon a while back at Wal-Mart.
Will be stored outside for now. It is a Deere 389 ci non-turbo. (just got done putting up a large building but has no power and will not be heated) It does have a block heater and usually plug it in for an hour but theres the times that it doesnt get plugged in and started at night. In our location we can get very cold due to being in the valley. I'd say the lowest is probably -10F for a few days and a lot around 0-10F. It will be used every day for 1-3 hours doing chores and feeding cattle. It wont be worked hard to often in the winter. Just mostly loader work and moving large hay bales to the cattle.
Block heater is good, but does not heat the oil sitting down in the pan much if at all. I would get some HDEO 10W-30 in your tractor for winter, based on your use. One thing I have found is that professionals often recommend totally wrong lubricants to customers. Mechanics, service writers, etc. may be good at what they do, but often don't know much about the right oil for time of year or intended use of the equipment or vehicle.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Will be stored outside for now. It is a Deere 389 ci non-turbo. (just got done putting up a large building but has no power and will not be heated) It does have a block heater and usually plug it in for an hour but theres the times that it doesnt get plugged in and started at night. In our location we can get very cold due to being in the valley. I'd say the lowest is probably -10F for a few days and a lot around 0-10F. It will be used every day for 1-3 hours doing chores and feeding cattle. It wont be worked hard to often in the winter. Just mostly loader work and moving large hay bales to the cattle.
0 to -10, every day. Yeah, the 10W30 would be the better choice for your app.
Will be stored outside for now. It is a Deere 389 ci non-turbo. (just got done putting up a large building but has no power and will not be heated) It does have a block heater and usually plug it in for an hour but theres the times that it doesnt get plugged in and started at night. In our location we can get very cold due to being in the valley. I'd say the lowest is probably -10F for a few days and a lot around 0-10F. It will be used every day for 1-3 hours doing chores and feeding cattle. It wont be worked hard to often in the winter. Just mostly loader work and moving large hay bales to the cattle.
0 to -10, every day. Yeah, the 10W30 would be the better choice for your app.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Should have been more clear. Some -10F starts with most being 0 to +10F. But the temps of an Iowa winter are anyones guess.
Straight 30 is nutty enough in the summer let alone the winter. I doubt the manual would recommend it in the winter. There are plenty of 10w-30 HDEOs that would be more than suitable for the task, as others pointed out.
Should have been more clear. Some -10F starts with most being 0 to +10F. But the temps of an Iowa winter are anyones guess.
Straight 30 is nutty enough in the summer let alone the winter. I doubt the manual would recommend it in the winter. There are plenty of 10w-30 HDEOs that would be more than suitable for the task, as others pointed out.
Definitely get some 10w30 in there. Must have been an intern that said to use 30w,geeesh...
Yea.... I was like WTH? They said to just use 15w-40... After talking they sent him with 30wt as they didnt have any 10w-30. Looks like T5 will be going in and the 30wt will be used in oddball stuff next summer. Sad to drain a $85/5gal bucket of oil. Since it will only have a few hours on it, we will just drain it and use it for something else.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Yea.... I was like WTH? They said to just use 15w-40...
At least that would have been wiser than the straight 30.
Yea.... I was like WTH? They said to just use 15w-40...
At least that would have been wiser than the straight 30.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Straight 30 is nutty enough in the summer let alone the winter.
SAE30 is perfectly fine for summer. I would consider some (like Delo) a three season oil.
If you look at the specs, it's more like a 15W30.
Straight 30 is nutty enough in the summer let alone the winter.
SAE30 is perfectly fine for summer. I would consider some (like Delo) a three season oil.
If you look at the specs, it's more like a 15W30.
True, a straight 30 isn't exactly the same as the straight 30s of years ago. Still, there are better choices out there, particularly for farm equipment that isn't strictly seasonal. Generally, too, I've found that multigrades are more readily available in 5 gallon pails than are monogrades, unless one goes to the distributor. I haven't touched a monograde in around thirty years. I've stuck to multigrades in plenty of old farm equipment.
30 weight flows like a 30weight at full temp and stacks like one at low temps.
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+1 on the T5 10W-30. If the tractor was just running the occasional auger I wouldn't worry about it to much and just plug it in before starting it. However, being used for chores every day the better cold flow capability of the 10W-30 would definitely be worth it in the winter.
Wow. Straight 30 in winter. Talk about old school. Heck, if it was the correct old school, they should have recommended straight 20 grade. Go look at the Nebraska tractor tests from the '50s, '60s and '70s. If they were tested in winter, they all were using a straight 20 grade.
I use the T5 in my equipment and I learned to do that the hard way. I have a loader tractor I use in the winter. It HAS to start when needed. For a number of years, I was unable to plug it in because the barn didn't have electricity. I ran 15W40 in it. One cold winter, I couldn't get the thing to spin over fast enough to start. Cold battery, Cold, thick oil. No crankee fast enough. No startee. 10W30 made all the difference... and it wasn't even the T5 then, which has better CCS specs than the old Triple Protection I had been using. I run it year around in the loader tractor and the diesel pickup.
Definitely plug it in if using the straight 30 grade. Best even with the 10W30. I keep the loader tractor plugged in during winter but the cable is on a thermostat that kicks on at 35F. Much better for the engine to start warm and it gets you working faster too. If you have a cab and heater, gets you warmed up faster too!
I use the T5 in my equipment and I learned to do that the hard way. I have a loader tractor I use in the winter. It HAS to start when needed. For a number of years, I was unable to plug it in because the barn didn't have electricity. I ran 15W40 in it. One cold winter, I couldn't get the thing to spin over fast enough to start. Cold battery, Cold, thick oil. No crankee fast enough. No startee. 10W30 made all the difference... and it wasn't even the T5 then, which has better CCS specs than the old Triple Protection I had been using. I run it year around in the loader tractor and the diesel pickup.
Definitely plug it in if using the straight 30 grade. Best even with the 10W30. I keep the loader tractor plugged in during winter but the cable is on a thermostat that kicks on at 35F. Much better for the engine to start warm and it gets you working faster too. If you have a cab and heater, gets you warmed up faster too!
"No crankee fast enough. No startee."
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