Or use an oil pan heater like I do on all my equipment, trucks, etc.
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Deere Dealer recommended 30wt for winter use...
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Buy a quart of the cheapest straight 30 wt. you can find. Put it in your freezer, and set the freezer as low as it'll go.* After a day, take out the oil and try, just try, to squeeze some out of the bottle. If any comes out, it'll be like caramel ice cream topping. Really hard to start an engine with that and hard to pump to lubricate the engine.
*The freezer should be set to -10°F anyway for longest life of the frozen food, with a max of zero.
*The freezer should be set to -10°F anyway for longest life of the frozen food, with a max of zero.
Hence my comment about using an oil pan heater. They are cheap, easy to install, and your oil will flow..... even a straight 40 weight... like it would on a warm summer's day even at -30F ambient temp. You can put a oil pan heater on anything with an oil pan. Generally for less than $75. You only need to have it plugged in when you know you will be using the equipment, or plug it in daily and have it on a timer if you choose. They don't use a lot of power. If left plugged in over night, the heat will rise and help warm the lower block. Combined with a block heater and you will be able to start anything clear to the North Pole in January and have lube to the top of the engine quickly.
All of that might be true but why? Why wouldn't you just use a good multi-grade oil? Why all the messing around with a pan heater just so you can use straight weight oil? I don't get it. Besides, you need a place to plug it in too, not everyone has that available.
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Hence my comment about using an oil pan heater. They are cheap, easy to install, and your oil will flow..... even a straight 40 weight... like it would on a warm summer's day even at -30F ambient temp. You can put a oil pan heater on anything with an oil pan. Generally for less than $75. You only need to have it plugged in when you know you will be using the equipment, or plug it in daily and have it on a timer if you choose. They don't use a lot of power. If left plugged in over night, the heat will rise and help warm the lower block. Combined with a block heater and you will be able to start anything clear to the North Pole in January and have lube to the top of the engine quickly.
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Hence my comment about using an oil pan heater. They are cheap, easy to install, and your oil will flow..... even a straight 40 weight... like it would on a warm summer's day even at -30F ambient temp. You can put a oil pan heater on anything with an oil pan. Generally for less than $75. You only need to have it plugged in when you know you will be using the equipment, or plug it in daily and have it on a timer if you choose. They don't use a lot of power. If left plugged in over night, the heat will rise and help warm the lower block. Combined with a block heater and you will be able to start anything clear to the North Pole in January and have lube to the top of the engine quickly.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
All of that might be true but why? Why wouldn't you just use a good multi-grade oil? Why all the messing around with a pan heater just so you can use straight weight oil? I don't get it. Besides, you need a place to plug it in too, not everyone has that available.
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Hence my comment about using an oil pan heater. They are cheap, easy to install, and your oil will flow..... even a straight 40 weight... like it would on a warm summer's day even at -30F ambient temp. You can put a oil pan heater on anything with an oil pan. Generally for less than $75. You only need to have it plugged in when you know you will be using the equipment, or plug it in daily and have it on a timer if you choose. They don't use a lot of power. If left plugged in over night, the heat will rise and help warm the lower block. Combined with a block heater and you will be able to start anything clear to the North Pole in January and have lube to the top of the engine quickly.
I use oil pan heaters on everything with an oil sump I own. And I do use multigrade oils. My question back is, "why would you put an engine thru more hardship than necessary on a bone chilling morning starting it up?" Having warm oil in the sump promotes faster warmup of the engine and lower fuel use. This may not be an issue for someone buying a tank of fuel every two weeks, but I go thru over 21,000 gallons of fuel a year. Heaters, both block and oil pan, can be on timers to minimize the amount of time they are using power. And an oil pan heater costs only the price of a few gallons of oil. I find it amazing that some will put hundreds of dollars of things on a vehicle that does nothing for making it more efficient or improve performance, but will poo poo something as simple, basic, low cost, and functional as an oil pan heater which can improve the life of an engine in cold conditions and reduce overall costs. There are a high number of folks that could do this and are not "land locked" away from a power source. Unless you are off the grid and do not have a personal source of power would one not have a solution available. And I didn't get the impression that the OP was in this situation with the equipment he was talking about.
It just isn't some real cool and hi tech idea and I get the feeling that is why many don't consider it.
All of that might be true but why? Why wouldn't you just use a good multi-grade oil? Why all the messing around with a pan heater just so you can use straight weight oil? I don't get it. Besides, you need a place to plug it in too, not everyone has that available.
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Hence my comment about using an oil pan heater. They are cheap, easy to install, and your oil will flow..... even a straight 40 weight... like it would on a warm summer's day even at -30F ambient temp. You can put a oil pan heater on anything with an oil pan. Generally for less than $75. You only need to have it plugged in when you know you will be using the equipment, or plug it in daily and have it on a timer if you choose. They don't use a lot of power. If left plugged in over night, the heat will rise and help warm the lower block. Combined with a block heater and you will be able to start anything clear to the North Pole in January and have lube to the top of the engine quickly.
I use oil pan heaters on everything with an oil sump I own. And I do use multigrade oils. My question back is, "why would you put an engine thru more hardship than necessary on a bone chilling morning starting it up?" Having warm oil in the sump promotes faster warmup of the engine and lower fuel use. This may not be an issue for someone buying a tank of fuel every two weeks, but I go thru over 21,000 gallons of fuel a year. Heaters, both block and oil pan, can be on timers to minimize the amount of time they are using power. And an oil pan heater costs only the price of a few gallons of oil. I find it amazing that some will put hundreds of dollars of things on a vehicle that does nothing for making it more efficient or improve performance, but will poo poo something as simple, basic, low cost, and functional as an oil pan heater which can improve the life of an engine in cold conditions and reduce overall costs. There are a high number of folks that could do this and are not "land locked" away from a power source. Unless you are off the grid and do not have a personal source of power would one not have a solution available. And I didn't get the impression that the OP was in this situation with the equipment he was talking about.
It just isn't some real cool and hi tech idea and I get the feeling that is why many don't consider it.
Well, I agree that pan heaters are always a good idea, I apologize that didn't come across properly. I really mean why would you stick with a straight-weight oil that requires the use of a pan heater? It was more a question about the oil choice rather than the pan heater.
And I did see where you use multi-grade oils, I guess I was mostly questioning why anyone would use a single grade oil these days. It's an honest question, I just don't understand it. Price?
And I did see where you use multi-grade oils, I guess I was mostly questioning why anyone would use a single grade oil these days. It's an honest question, I just don't understand it. Price?
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Well, I agree that pan heaters are always a good idea, I apologize that didn't come across properly. I really mean why would you stick with a straight-weight oil that requires the use of a pan heater? It was more a question about the oil choice rather than the pan heater.
And I did see where you use multi-grade oils, I guess I was mostly questioning why anyone would use a single grade oil these days. It's an honest question, I just don't understand it. Price?
As for anyone using a straight weight, it could be just personal choice. Some, like my late step father, would not have anything to do with a multi grade. No way, no time. He was convinced that straight weights offered better protection. Not in any way insinuating that the OP is that type of individual, but there are some still out there. Maybe his JD dealer is one of them and that is why he recommended it.
They would offer the same question in counter, "why would anyone use a multigrade when a straight weight is better". It is not based in logic, but it is what it is. At least the OP presented the situation and level heads can assure him that using a multi-grade, overall, would be better than a straight weight.
Well, I agree that pan heaters are always a good idea, I apologize that didn't come across properly. I really mean why would you stick with a straight-weight oil that requires the use of a pan heater? It was more a question about the oil choice rather than the pan heater.
And I did see where you use multi-grade oils, I guess I was mostly questioning why anyone would use a single grade oil these days. It's an honest question, I just don't understand it. Price?
As for anyone using a straight weight, it could be just personal choice. Some, like my late step father, would not have anything to do with a multi grade. No way, no time. He was convinced that straight weights offered better protection. Not in any way insinuating that the OP is that type of individual, but there are some still out there. Maybe his JD dealer is one of them and that is why he recommended it.
They would offer the same question in counter, "why would anyone use a multigrade when a straight weight is better". It is not based in logic, but it is what it is. At least the OP presented the situation and level heads can assure him that using a multi-grade, overall, would be better than a straight weight.
Volk, what kind of summer duty does this thing see?
I'm responsible for the neighbors Ford 4600 3cyl diesel. It used to be 15w-40 year round, but after reading on here and realizing that it rarely gets to temp, I switched to 10w-30 year round. Winter starts are much nicer too!
I'm responsible for the neighbors Ford 4600 3cyl diesel. It used to be 15w-40 year round, but after reading on here and realizing that it rarely gets to temp, I switched to 10w-30 year round. Winter starts are much nicer too!
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Volk, what kind of summer duty does this thing see?
I'm responsible for the neighbors Ford 4600 3cyl diesel. It used to be 15w-40 year round, but after reading on here and realizing that it rarely gets to temp, I switched to 10w-30 year round. Winter starts are much nicer too!
Same as the winter but more baling and cutting hay.
Volk, what kind of summer duty does this thing see?
I'm responsible for the neighbors Ford 4600 3cyl diesel. It used to be 15w-40 year round, but after reading on here and realizing that it rarely gets to temp, I switched to 10w-30 year round. Winter starts are much nicer too!
Same as the winter but more baling and cutting hay.
Eric- I run 10W30 in my Ford 2810 year around, same tractor as the 4610 but with the smaller engine 158 ci engine. Run 100 hour, 2 year intervals and has been great. Did one UOA fairly recently and again, great. Even took it to a local plowing days and worked the mucus out of it at 100 degrees and 60% humidity. Much harder on me than it was on the tractor! We have clay ground here and it was baked hard but it pulled a 2-16 like a champ.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Switched out for T5 10w-30 today. Put the straight 30 into a 4010 since it needed an oil change and will be parked until spring.
Good deal, you'll like the 10/30 much better. What model John Deere are you using for your loader work this winter? Sounds like a 3010/3020?
Switched out for T5 10w-30 today. Put the straight 30 into a 4010 since it needed an oil change and will be parked until spring.
Good deal, you'll like the 10/30 much better. What model John Deere are you using for your loader work this winter? Sounds like a 3010/3020?
Originally Posted By: HM12460
Originally Posted By: volk06
Switched out for T5 10w-30 today. Put the straight 30 into a 4010 since it needed an oil change and will be parked until spring.
Good deal, you'll like the 10/30 much better. What model John Deere are you using for your loader work this winter? Sounds like a 3010/3020?
3155 MFWD.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Switched out for T5 10w-30 today. Put the straight 30 into a 4010 since it needed an oil change and will be parked until spring.
Good deal, you'll like the 10/30 much better. What model John Deere are you using for your loader work this winter? Sounds like a 3010/3020?
3155 MFWD.
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