No, I used OEM oil till like 85k, switched to mobil 1 for about 10k and now been strictly Castrol. I like how Castrol has the Titanium additiveDo you use it since it was new? How is the cold starting on this oil? When I watched some cold flow test Castrol was not performing that well
Costco - Castrol EDGE with Titanium 0W-20 (Black Bottle) - Toyota Highlander 2023 2.4T
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Those "cold flow tests" do not replicate the starting conditions inside an engine and are pretty worthless. Cranking and pumpability are represented by the oil's winter rating, not how oil flows down a tube or out of a bottle.Do you use it since it was new? How is the cold starting on this oil? When I watched some cold flow test Castrol was not performing that well
I would stick with the Toyota oem it’s better than any off the shelf oil
Toyota oil is likely MOBIL 1 . Was in the past . This is pointed out in the video of an oil change for a new '23 Corolla at 10:18 into the video . Includes U.O.A of TOYOTA Genuine 0w-8 factory fill drained early and V.O.A. of TOYOTA Genuine 0w-16 that replaces it . I used to poor in about 4 > 8 ounces of left over oil from previous O.C. to flush out the pan before new oil and filter . Will likely start doing this again , that's if I remember . Not a quart like in the video, maybe 1/4 at the most . Should have done this from the 1st O.C. and following as a standard for the G.D.I. of the '18 ACCENT . Some of his views may fluster some . I find some content questionable , such as his preference of 0w-16 over the 0w-8 stated in the owners manual as shown in the video . Possible WARRANTY void of the vehicle .
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It’s better than MB1 if you have ever compared a VOA of Toyota vs MB-1 the add package is different. Toyota is like a racing oil specification not an off the shelf oil. Have to give it to Lake for pointing that out. But I have been running Toyota oil in my Subaru for over 3 years and never had any problems.
I would think it is safe to say you could have run any name brand oil for the past three years and wouldn’t have had any problems either
That’s very safe to say.
So what you’re saying is it doesn’t matter anymore what oil you use it’s all top shelf and the amsoils aren’t anything special. Is that what you’re saying?
If that’s what you take from me saying “you could run any name brand oil for the past three years and wouldn’t have any problems either” then I guess so.
Any other rational person that isn’t trying to start an argument would see what I was saying.
TGMO, Amsoil, Pennzoil, Quacker State, Supertech, Mobil One, HPL, Castrol……..
Would all have been fine to run for the past three years and would not have given you any problems with sensible oci’s
You’re just making stuff up now. Posting nonsense to try and cover up your lack of technical understanding.
No you said it doesn’t make a difference what oil you use.
What I took from it is that it doesn’t matter what oil you use. So why spend more for a niche brand when super tech is just fine. And that to me basically means why pay for something more expensive when brand x is just as good. No argument there. What i was bringing up is the Toyota oil is formulated better than anything on the shelves. And it hasn’t given me problems.
Now I'm curious! I have been using shelf brand oils for the past 30+ years in about ten different cars including Jeep, VW, Dodge, Toyota, Honda, GM, and Nissan, and never had any problems. The only exception was dealer service dept oil changes in the Honda (for about three years), which may or may not have been genuine Honda oil. Are you saying that Toyota genuine oil would have made these engines run better and/or last longer?
FWIW each car in my current fleet (Honda, Cadillac, and Toyota) has around 160k miles and is running strong on Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil 1, Valvoline, Quaker State, or a frankenblend. I have never experienced an oil-related engine failure in these or any previous cars, except for the timing chain issue in the Cadillac (a common issue in the 3.6). Would I benefit from switching them to Toyota genuine oil?
To honestly answer your question. I would say I don’t know if it would make any difference or run better. I do know it’s formulated as good as the exxon racing oil for the Toyota race cars. That’s why I use it. I don’t think anything off the shelf would damage anyone’s engine if used correctly either.
That’s all I was saying earlier
Triple_Se7en
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Toyota doesn't produce motor oil.
Also, if you feel the store brand names (again, the stores do not make their own motor oil) are as good as the producer brands and/or the boutique brand names, then you need to do a-lot more reading at this website.
When I arrived here in 2004, I used store brand names exclusively.
Not more than a year or two later, this website taught me that motor oil producers took care of my engines better. Some offer Guarantees up-to 500,0000 miles. Try that with Highline Warren brand (Supertech). Good luck with that.
Two years ago, I ventured into boutique oils and if you look at my Signature below, I'm slowly selling-off the likes of Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, Mobil-1.......etc, in favor of the Ravenols, Schaeffers, Red Lines, Amsoils and HPLs.
Why?.....plain & simple the boutiques I listed are better motor oils for our gasoline vehicles, here in the USA.
Yes, you can run Supertech for 250k. But in all driving conditions, the brand names and boutiques have better odds at success. It's why the most famous name race car drivers don;t wear uniforms with Supertech as their sponsor. So in ANY driving conditions behind the wheel of your vehicle, good luck using Supertech. I wish you the best using it.
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I would use the 0W-30 all year long.Not in Canadian version at least. It is just saying that 5w-20 can be used instead but then it should changed to 0w-20 - I was thinking to use 0w-30 during spring and summer time as we are planning to travel to the warmer parts of NA during this time. I need to research this more
This lol I like Castrol products but that's just me
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Any of the listed options will be fine. If I were you I would check your maintenance manual to see if there’s a clause that admits you can run a 0w-30 or 5w-30. Here’s what it says for my Tacoma, for example:
For a turbo applications especially I’d probably want a little bit more viscosity.
For a turbo applications especially I’d probably want a little bit more viscosity.
I never said Toyota made their own oil. I said their formula was better. Which is formulated by Exxon. There’s a big difference in that; much like how important reading comprehension skills are. I also never said to go excessively over drain intervals either. So don’t put words into my mouth that was never there.
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