Cordless Impact

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That's the thing though, the itty bitty zipped the nuts off when the big one couldn't.
 

Trav

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The video you linked to was the bigger one. He must have had that air gun set on low with almost no air going to it.
 

AVB

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I have been planning to get the same gun in 3/8s for my next power tool. That or one of the new style mini air impacts, will be next.
 

Trav

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For power and weight there is not much of a comparison, some of the mini air guns are serious little beast. I don't look at the cordless as a replacement just an useful addition, if you are most of the time away from an air supply the cordless is ideal but if you have air most of the time the mini air would probably serve you better and cheaper. Having both is nice but gets expensive.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
The video you linked to was the bigger one. He must have had that air gun set on low with almost no air going to it.
Thought it was the right model #. Still, of the two Makitas, never would have guessed. As far as the air tool, I thought that was wonky too, my <$20 horror fright 1/2 inch zips things off before I realize I pulled the trigger. 150 psi FTW.
 

Trav

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Update. I used it all day doing wheel bearings, lower control arms and struts on a 2008 Golf. The thing blew me away, I had the big air gun ready but decided to try this and see how far a could get before breaking out the air gun. Lugs, no problem, then the big 30mm 12 pt axle nut which was rusty (I figured that was going to be end of this tool) no problem it took it right off. Strut upper nuts and control arm/sway bar bolts and tie rod nuts came right off, in short the air gun didn't get used at all. It is so small and light you can work with this all day with no fatigue. This tool punches way above it class, its probably the best and most useful cordless tool I have bought thus far. The 5A battery is still reading full, it finished a strong as it started and the tapered pin is a joy to use, just line it up with the hole in the impact socket and it holds it firmly with no hog rung.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Update. I used it all day doing wheel bearings, lower control arms and struts on a 2008 Golf. The thing blew me away, I had the big air gun ready but decided to try this and see how far a could get before breaking out the air gun. Lugs, no problem, then the big 30mm 12 pt axle nut which was rusty (I figured that was going to be end of this tool) no problem it took it right off. Strut upper nuts and control arm/sway bar bolts and tie rod nuts came right off, in short the air gun didn't get used at all. It is so small and light you can work with this all day with no fatigue. This tool punches way above it class, its probably the best and most useful cordless tool I have bought thus far. The 5A battery is still reading full, it finished a strong as it started and the tapered pin is a joy to use, just line it up with the hole in the impact socket and it holds it firmly with no hog rung.
It's on my list of tools to buy.
 

JHZR2

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Intrigued. But it's 1/2 - do you think a 3/8 version would be more useful for more types of attachments? Having to use 1/2 drive is sort of a pain. Ive taken to using 1/4 when I can just for less mass in hand when possible.
 

Trav

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I have the 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 and honestly the 3/8 gets used the least. They are all about the same size and weight but the 1/2 has a lot more power and is much more useful. Good impact sockets are a must using adapters lowers the power output to the fastener. I don't see any advantage to going with the 3/8.
 

Y_K

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Thank you very much for the real world 'review' by a working pro. This helps a lot to the rest of us.
 
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I've been looking at Makita for my next tool swap out, and they are looking good, albeit expensive. I have a ton of Milwaukee Fuel both 12v and 18v with no major concerns, except the placement of revere switch being right under my thumb/finger which is annoying, but other than that the tools and batteries have been stellar. I usually go three for four years and make a big swap if i'm wanting something different, and Makita is on my short list. I use my cordless tools every day in HVAC work and they sure get some hard use, so it's not just driving a screw now and then, it's a lot of cutting, drilling, driving and they have to be solid performers or they're gone quick.
 

Trav

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I hear ya, if it doesn't do the job its gone. I work the Makita hard, harder than any DIY would work them, day in a day out (not at the moment I could kill myself with a friggin screwdriver) LOL. Batteries from 08 and the tools that use them are still going strong. You could say I'm sold on them. Don't get me wrong, quality takes a dive and I will drop them like a bad habit. For corded tools, its Hilti mostly with a nice USA made Sawzall and Buffer from Milwaukee when they were still owned by Atlas Copco.
 
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I wish I had read this thread before I bought Milwaukee stuff. I just got a 1/2" impact and a hammer drill. I used to use Makita exclusively when I worked in a shop rigging boats years ago. If you showed up with any other tool, you got teased hard.
 

Trav

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I have 2 Milwaukee cordless tools left, the pipe cutter and the free drive that came with it. I had a few but battery failures and poor CS ruined the brand for me. When these batteries fail the tools go in the bin, I wont buy anymore. 1 battery took 2 charges before the charger came up with defective battery, the other a few more times. Milwaukee would not stand behind them despite having an original sales receipt and being submitted by a rep working at home Depot. The tools were decent, no complaints about them but the batteries are atrocious as is the CS. Lost customer. The best CS bar none is Hilti. I have Hilti corded drills and cordless hammer drill, the day after I get a new tool I get an email from the Hilti zone rep saying "any trouble call or email me and I will bring another tool for you to use until yours if repaired or replaced and I will take yours in". How do you beat that.
 
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Hilti rocks. I used to use their stuff setting up diesel generators. Anchoring them to the floor. I have a Hilti sheetrock screw gun thatself feeds the screws on a strip. Love that tool.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
I have 2 Milwaukee cordless tools left, the pipe cutter and the free drive that came with it. I had a few but battery failures and poor CS ruined the brand for me. When these batteries fail the tools go in the bin, I wont buy anymore. 1 battery took 2 charges before the charger came up with defective battery, the other a few more times. Milwaukee would not stand behind them despite having an original sales receipt and being submitted by a rep working at home Depot. The tools were decent, no complaints about them but the batteries are atrocious as is the CS. Lost customer. The best CS bar none is Hilti. I have Hilti corded drills and cordless hammer drill, the day after I get a new tool I get an email from the Hilti zone rep saying "any trouble call or email me and I will bring another tool for you to use until yours if repaired or replaced and I will take yours in". How do you beat that.
Sad to hear you had issues with Milwaukee. Had a conversation yesterday with her friend's husband who is a mechanic at a diesel shop. He got a screaming deal on a Milwaukee cordless impact. Something like 1400 ft lb breaking strength. Has had zero issues whatsoever and uses it daily because he hates hoses. LOL. I want to say he paid around $150.
 

Trav

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These torque ratings are a joke, honestly there is no way in Hades a cordless is putting out what a 1" drive impact is putting out fed with a 3/4 - 1" air hose at 90 PSI. That is what it take to make and sustain 1400+ ft lb. The Milwaukee tools are fine as I said, but IMHO if the CS sucks and you happen to get a bad piece its not worth the aggravation. Milwaukee couldn't sell me a set of cheap screwdrivers, I would use the edge of penny first before I gave them another dime. https://www.grainger.com/product/INGERSOLL-RAND-Industrial-Duty-Air-Impact-1FYD5
 
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The high breakaway torque values published by manufacturers are under very specific conditions which include the nut and thread size/pitch and thread lubrication. They pick this to maximize the resulting output. Under real-world applications the values will be no where near those. However they can be used as a basis to compare against brands.
 
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