Cordless impact wrench

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Apr 13, 2017
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I'm kicking around taking the plunge into a cordless 1/2 impact wrench. Dragging the compressor and hose out is becoming a pain.

It won't get much use - mainly lugs or rotor fasteners a few times a year (85 -100 ft/lbs max). But I did a valve cover recently - and I always seem to be looking for something small to buzz out long fasteners.

I know the Milwaukee M18 line is recommended, but I can't justify another set of batteries - just way too many already. (Trying to consolidate to Dewalt, but have a couple Ryobi 18v tools).


Anyone have experience with this:



I like the price here better - but not sure about the size:


If I want to cheap out - I could use the battery for my existing 1/4 impact and tire inflator:

Comments appreciated.
 
I have the 12V version of the Dewalt, thing can't even bust lugs with a full battery, and it's not like they were super tight, they came right off with the tire iron but I had to lower the car all the way back down so the tire was on the ground then twist the jack all the way back of again the get the spare on, so I'm not to impressed with dewalts ratings, definitely disappointed me when I needed it, my 12V was rated at 200lb-ft of breaking torque and couldn't even undo lugs do I don't know how much I'd trust that 300lb rating on their 20V.
 
That Ryobi is the older model that's only 300 foot pounds, they came out with a newer model that is 600 foot pounds in reverse so it's like the equivalent mid torque model on the Milwaukee line. That 300 foot pounds might not work on lug nuts as I have one of those and couldn't get one lug nut off with that impact even though it's supposed to be only 100 foot pounds.

 
That Ryobi is the older model that's only 300 foot pounds, they came out with a newer model that is 600 foot pounds in reverse so it's like the equivalent mid torque model on the Milwaukee line. That 300 foot pounds might not work on lug nuts as I have one of those and couldn't get one lug nut off with that impact even though it's supposed to be only 100 foot pounds.

I agree. The mid torque P262 would be perfect. I have the new PBLIW01B high torque and its overkill for lug nuts
 
I agree. The mid torque P262 would be perfect. I have the new PBLIW01B high torque and its overkill for lug nuts
When you get up to $200, it's not too far from the Milwaukee 2767 which at one point you could get with a battery in the $250 range. Then you're at 1400 vs 1170 with the Ryobi.
 
for your uses you may need 2 different impacts.

The first one is probably your best dewalt option.

The second one would not do the majority of lugnuts.

The ryobi is also underpowered but would do most lug nuts but not as many as the first dewalt.

I'll list a little about my experience with battery impact wrenches on lugnuts.

Dewalt dcf899 - Big heavy blasts anything off instantly.
dewalt mid torque. DCF894 about 60% of the weight of the big one.. maybe 2/3 when both have batteries on. works on most lug nuts pretty fast. some it would struggle and hammer for 5-10seconds before moving.
Milwaukee stubby 1/2 M12 fuel 2555-20(12volt) 1/3 the weight of the big dewalt, smaller, more balanced, rated at 250ft/lb it removes most passenger lug nuts. will struggle on truck lugnuts 140ft/lb and some rusted on 100ft/lb lug nuts but would eventually remove.


Nowadays, Sold the mid torque if the m12 stubby wont take it off the dewalt midtorque wouldnt either.

Use the big dewalt 1/4 the time, the m12 stubby 75% of the time.

Since the first dewalt you listed is 450 I think it is the best option the ryobi specs out similar to the dewalt mid torque which would struggle often enough to frustrate if its your only tool option.

if you want ryobi you need the P262 with the appropriate HP battery.
 
I have the Dewalt 20V high torque 1/2 impact. haven't found anything it won't take off. I also have a 3/8 inch for smaller stuff. If you already have Dewalt, the Milwaukee isn't that much better to make the complete switch.
 
If you already have battery-operated tools from a single brand, stay with that brand so you can share batteries and chargers. I wouldn't care what brand is "recommended" more than others. I don't play those silly "Team Red" or "Team Yellow" games either. For a casual user like you describe yourself, tools from Milwaukee, Dewalt, Ridgid, etc will do just fine for you.
 
The Dewalt stuff is good. If I didn't invest in Milwaukee, I would have invested in the Dewalt stuff.
 
I have a Dewalt 18v. It's an older one that is supposed to be ~250ftlbs tq.
It does everything I need.

However, I recently ended up with a couple of Ryobi products.
I am considering selling all my Dewalt and consolidating on Ryobi.
 
When you get up to $200, it's not too far from the Milwaukee 2767 which at one point you could get with a battery in the $250 range. Then you're at 1400 vs 1170 with the Ryobi.
OP stated "Trying to consolidate to Dewalt, but have a couple Ryobi 18v tools" and based on the use case of lug nuts, and rotor fasteners, having 1,170+ ftlbs is absolutely overkill.

The P262 for 600 ftlbs tool-only will fit the use case and is $160 versus $400 for the M2767 combo
 
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OP stated "Trying to consolidate to Dewalt, but have a couple Ryobi 18v tools" and based on the use case of lug nuts, and rotor fasteners, having 1,170+ ftlbs is absolutely overkill.

The P262 for 600 ftlbs tool-only will fit the use case and is $160 versus $400 for the M2767 combo
or the 199 dewalt 450ft/lb because.. dewalt?
 
My past experience with impacts is to stay away from the friction ring versions.
My big m18 fuel has the 7/16 hex drive and my fuel 3/8 has 1/4 hex drive.
I’ve wore a few of the friction rings out on guns at work and it gets expensive to replace.
 
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I have the Ryobi P262 with the silver 4amp HP battery and I have not had any issue with lug nuts for cars, light truck, trailer tires and skid steer rims. I have the 1/4 drive for valve covers or coils etc.
 
My past experience with impacts is to stay away from the friction ring versions.
My big m18 fuel has the 7/16 hex drive and my fuel 3/8 has 1/4 hex drive.
I’ve wore a few of the friction rings out on guns at work and it gets expensive to replace.

I wear them out quite frequently, I buy Friction Ring repair kits from my Snap-on & Cornwell dealers for cheap. I've broke so many Hex Drive Adaptors it's not funny.
The kits come with like 4 or 5 O-Rings & Friction Rings....I'll get the company/brand name for you tomorrow.
 
It's always gotten on my nerves to witness Mechanics use 3/8" Impacts to remove Lug Nuts. Break Away Torque is ALWAYS much higher than what the fastener was originally torqued to.

A Mid-Torque 1/2" is perfect for Lug Nuts, Though there are 3/8" Impacts built on the same frame with the same ratings, But why beat on your 3/8" sockets like that?
 
I wear them out quite frequently, I buy Friction Ring repair kits from my Snap-on & Cornwell dealers for cheap. I've broke so many Hex Drive Adaptors it's not funny.
The kits come with like 4 or 5 O-Rings & Friction Rings....I'll get the company/brand name for you tomorrow.
Yeah please do post up the source as I have a real nice 3/8 20v brushless dewalt in the drawer that won’t hold a socket. We have a tool repair guy here and he told me that he has to replace the shaft because the replacement rings spread when installing them and then the customer complains that they can’t get a socket on the gun. He is the one that turned us on to the 7/16 hex guns which completely solved the problem.
I’m in no way shape nor form using my stuff here at home as much as a pro shop but many moons ago I started out with a 12v makita 1/4 hex and was busting drives all the time. Since I prefer the 1/4 hex on the small guns for what ever reason I started buying the Hitachi drives at Lowe’s and I can honestly say it has been several years since I’ve broken one but a bigger gun is now just a few steps away too.
Thanks CL
 
I drank the kool-aid back when the Milwaukee mid torque came out, and I am going back to air. This mid torque cordless struggles with anything over 80 ft/lbs and is completely neutered by extensions.

To me, the time savings from not messing with an air hose are being eaten up by having to hammer away on fasteners for so much longer.
 
If you already have battery-operated tools from a single brand, stay with that brand so you can share batteries and chargers. I wouldn't care what brand is "recommended" more than others. I don't play those silly "Team Red" or "Team Yellow" games either. For a casual user like you describe yourself, tools from Milwaukee, Dewalt, Ridgid, etc will do just fine for you.
That is my thought too. Also, what other accessories would you want? It is nice having a tire inflator too, along with drill and screwdriver for around home use.

Me, I went Makita but I use the seriess more for non auto stuff—but same battery for all.
 
It's always gotten on my nerves to witness Mechanics use 3/8" Impacts to remove Lug Nuts. Break Away Torque is ALWAYS much higher than what the fastener was originally torqued to.

A Mid-Torque 1/2" is perfect for Lug Nuts, Though there are 3/8" Impacts built on the same frame with the same ratings, But why beat on your 3/8" sockets like that?

I made this mistake when I bought my first impact years ago. I thought I could use it to remove lugs, and realized I was pretty quick that my cheap Harbor Freight sockets were not up to the beating.

Do they even make 3/8 sockets that are impact rated? Not that I'm looking - but I am always hesitant to use a normal socket on my small impact.
 
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