Can you even buy a "bad" oil anymore? Even cheap syn is great!

Just did an OC at the dealer on my Ford. they used some unknown, bulk non-synthetic. Supposed to be Motorcraft. I have not yet verified the bulk tank.
Engine has never run better. Better then Valvoline Advanced FS 5W20 , better than QS FS 5W30, and WAYYYYYY better than a horrid batch of Castrol Edge 5w20 - where the engine sounded like it was taking itself apart constantly.

p.s.: I bet a UOA for any of these oils would not provide evidence of anything awry - but I might also bet the Edge would look the worst of the acceptable :)
Please submit any accumulated data that supports "engine has never run better." This could be calibrated sound meter tests, teardown tests, borescope tests, trained rater evaluations, or calibrated chassis dyno runs. Thank you. btw, some unknown, bulk non-synthetic?
 
Boutique oils have lousy price/performance, and overcharge for the fun of it!

Not true. With a boutique oil such as Amsoil or HPL, if you use them as they are intended and do extended intervals, the cost per mile ends up being a lot less than off the shelf oils. But a lot of people can't wrap their head around doing those super extended intervals, even with all of the UOAs on here showing that those oils can go the distance.
 
I keep seeing pictures of the original cross hatching on cylinder walls of engines that had their pistons pulled for other reasons. Before the days of synthetics, it was common for an engine to require the use of the “ridge reamer” to get pistons out of the engine. The cylinder walls were worn so much, it left a ridge at the top of the cylinder where the original cylinder diameter was. Using ridge readers was common all the way into the 1990’s on engines that were using conventional oil in the 70’s & 80’s. I wonder what UOA’s would have indicated back then.

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I think engines were also built a lot tighter back then. And rings had a lot more tension. This caused more cylinder wear.

Today with CAFE in place, it's all about free rotating engines. That translates to loose ring fit.
 
Please submit any accumulated data that supports "engine has never run better." This could be calibrated sound meter tests, teardown tests, borescope tests, trained rater evaluations, or calibrated chassis dyno runs. Thank you. btw, some unknown, bulk non-synthetic?
Go away troll.
 
After reading many UOAs, watching video tests of, and trying the cheapest of oils you can get now, SuperTech (Walmart), Kirkland (Costco), and Amazon Basics, they all seem to be really great performing synthetics. The Kirkland 5w-30 syn at Costco today was $15/5qt jug!

We these being the bargain basement, I was thinking what oils would I actually avoid these days? Other than intentionally using the WRONG oil for an application, it seems you really can't go wrong. In the past there were known oils with waxes that sludged up engines (old Quaker State) or caused seal problems, but today are we living in a golden era of motor oils?

I avoid gas station and dollar store type brands.

I also avoid boutique brands.

For the same reason.
 
Those users overcharge themselves by paying the premium and dumping after 3K miles. Amazing.

Good point! And this is assuming that the boutique oils can protect up to 2 or 3x longer OCIs. Big assumption for me to take that risk.

if you can't stomach long OCIs, best is using one of your favorite oils from local stores. And even among those, we talking +/-$5 per jug (5 qt.) difference. That's the price diff i see between for example ST and other fancier oils when on sale!

Too many unknown variables to stick with long OCIs. Fuel dilution, soot, viscosity retention, effectiveness or suspension capability after x many miles and much more ...

imho, the only good thing about long OCI is the environment but at least people are recycling these days, I hope.
 
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