Calling Mazda 2.5L Owners

I believe that is correct. The dipstick is well hidden to boot.
Re the ATF change, and the comment re the dipstick being well-hidden. It is hidden under the airbox. You can reach it from underneath by removing the under-car aero tray - but I would do the following first: the dipstick accumulates some road debris / grit around it... and accordingly I would remove and clean the airbox and all around the airbox in the engine compartment and the attachments of the airbox. Then I would remove the capscrew and carefully clean the dipstick and the "ledge" of the transaxle case it sits on top of and bolts down to. Then reassemble all but leave the dipstick capscrew off and carefully maneuver your long neck atf funnel near the hole for the dipstick. Raise and accurately level the car. Drop fluid, remove pan and judiciously clean pan and magnet(s). Change atf filter. Check valve body capscrew torque values with the appropriate inch-lbs scale 1/4" torque wrench.

RTV the clean pan and use the torque wrench in tightening up the pan bolts, crisscross pattern

Fill to just below the fluid qty that you dropped-out... and then monitor sump temp as it comes up to min. requisite temp. (car running, and having cycled appropriately thru the a/t shift quadrant, ending up in park. Add atf thru your carefully cleaned and placed long-neck atf funnel. When done, replace dipstick + capscrew.

Cleanliness is of paramount importance... hence I advocate disasessembly and cleaning before you open trans.
 
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2014 Madza3 with the 2.5....I drove it hard and then sold it to a family member so I know it's still going strong at +100K mile. I did 7500-mile OCIs with mostly Kendall or Valvoline 0w-20. Per my family member, the engine still purrs. I really liked the 2.5/6-speed AT combo.
 
I’m asking because I don’t know and I didn’t see anyone mention it...
Is this motor significantly different than, say the 2.5L that is in my 2012 Ford Fusion?
 
2014 Madza3 with the 2.5....I drove it hard and then sold it to a family member so I know it's still going strong at +100K mile. I did 7500-mile OCIs with mostly Kendall or Valvoline 0w-20. Per my family member, the engine still purrs. I really liked the 2.5/6-speed AT combo.


These engines really do purr. Once it is warmed up, get out and go to the back. The exhaust sound is a purring sound.
 
I currently have a 2015 Mazda 6 2.5 and I do 10k oil changes on full synthetic 5W30. It was using about half a quart every 5k on 5W20. 5W30 reduced that consumption in half. I get about 28 mpg. I previously had a 2008 Mazda 3 2.3 and it was also on 10k OCI and in 200k miles did not ever burn a drop, but that was the Duratec, not the DI Skyactive. I think the low friction rings are to blame on these newer cars for the increased oil consumption.
 
Mazda enthusiasts are a finicky bunch. The Mazda filter is nothing special, use any filter that fits and you’ll be just fine. Enthusiasts will claim that the Wix 57002 is the only aftermarket filter you should run. Simply put, I’ve seen no validity in these claims.

If warranty is a concern then you’ll want to stick with 0w-20. Realistically though, this engine can use just about anything based on various geographically based manuals. 0/5w-20 and 0/5/10w-30 will treat you just fine.

You can look through my post history to see various filter dissections and UOAs. Based on the UOAs I don’t trust the Flexible Oil Monitor and decided to cap my mileage at 7,500.
 
I had a 2014 Mazda6 for about 6 years; I tried PP, M1, Amsoil SS, and the Mazda moly oil. It seemed to run best and get the best mileage on the Mazda oil.
Mazda oil filters are excellent. M1 and Wix are good too but honestly the car probably wasn't that picky about oil filters. Air and cabin filters were a different story, Mazda OEM were head and shoulders better quality than any of the parts store stuff I saw.

Great car overall. In the end it wasn't roomy enough for my growing family on weekend and holiday trips, but man I really miss it on the commute to and from work...
 
16.5,2.5 n.a cx5.oem filter and eco lite 5w30.
30k miles,good reliable car knock wood.
Oci of 6months and 3500miles due to very short daily trips.
 
Not sure what year but Mazda switched to 'in house' transmissions a few
years back. Their transmission is a step up from the out-sourced ones they
were using.
Fluid changes are a great idea if you want to keep any vehicle long term.

My 2¢
 
my manual basically says use everything up to50w which is strange but u can basically use every oil and the car would be fine.
 
Not sure what year but Mazda switched to 'in house' transmissions a few
years back. Their transmission is a step up from the out-sourced ones they
were using.
Fluid changes are a great idea if you want to keep any vehicle long term.

My 2¢


If it’s SkyActiv then it’s Mazda
 
Somewhat off topic but today I did a 300 mile round trip across a pass in 80-90 degree weather. Fuel economy averaged 35.4mpg and this was with air conditioning.
Mobil 1 AP 0w20.
 
^That is really good, especially for an AWD vehicle in those conditions.

I've been able to hit 33 mph @78mph. I usually average 80 mph on the highways and can get 30+ mpg. I'm happy with that.
 
^That is really good, especially for an AWD vehicle in those conditions.

I've been able to hit 33 mph @78mph. I usually average 80 mph on the highways and can get 30+ mpg. I'm happy with that.


For the most part I was driving 60 but this particular pass is winding and we had the usual summer maintenance road repairs going on which had us stopped as well. I’m also running Shell’s V Nitro 93.

I checked the oil prior to leaving and as usual it is sitting at the same spot on the dipstick. No oil consumption issues here.
 
I should have added; I checked the engine temperature via the gauge in the info screen. It read 210 the whole time. It never budged despite the temps outside and going uphill.
 
It’s not included in your info screen? I have to cycle through the options to get it though.
Maybe they changed it since?
 
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