Calling Mazda 2.5L Owners

[Sixxer]

Hello everyone

I recently purchased a 2020 Mazda 6 and have done some research regarding the oil and filters to use. From what I’ve read it sounds using the Mazda filter is recommended and because it’s a DI engine(haven’t owned one before) oil change intervals and the type of oil used is amplified. I’ve read where people use 5w30 instead of 0w20 and get ‘better results’. I’m not necessarily interested in that, but what oil would you recommend? I’ve heard oil with high moly content and Mazda recommends Castrol but I’m sure that’s just for $$. Would Costco brand Kirkland Signature 0w-20 suit the car well? 5000 or 7500 OCI?

Thanks in advance!

 

[PimTac]

The Mazda filter is a good one. As for the oil, any major brand of 0w20 will run fine in your Mazda with no worries. I would look for the latest SP oil or if that is not available, the SN+.

I like the idea of 5000 mile oci for mixed city and highway driving. If you drive mainly highway then you could go 7500.

Enjoy your new Mazda.

 

[cvlw]

Having owned 2 of the 2.5 liter Mazdas, just stick with 0w20 and maybe the 5000 mile interval while under warranty. Check the dipstick regularly. After that, you can consider trying other things... and reporting the results here!

 

[Sixxer]

Having owned 2 of the 2.5 liter Mazdas, just stick with 0w20 and maybe the 5000 mile interval while under warranty. Check the dipstick regularly. After that, you can consider trying other things... and reporting the results here!

If you bought two I am hoping that you were pleased with their quality? I will be checking the stick often I heard they can drink a little oil.

 

[Hoot_r]

I ran M1 AFE 0w20 in my 2014 Mazda 5 2.5L for well over 100K miles with no issues.

 

[buster]

Congrats, nice car. Powertrain is solid. As others have said, the 2.5L isn't very sensitive to brand. My oil of choice is Mobil 1 EP 0w20, however I'd have no concerns using any other brand. I'm not particularly fond of the Noack volatility of some of the other 0w20's on the market so that is why I went with Mobil 1.

 

[PimTac]

If you bought two I am hoping that you were pleased with their quality? I will be checking the stick often I heard they can drink a little oil.

I haven’t had that happen yet.
Do you have the naturally aspirated engine?

For the record, I have run Valvoline, Havoline, and now Mobil 1 in my ‘17 CX5. It uses no oil and runs very smoothly.

 

[Sixxer]

I haven’t had that happen yet.
Do you have the naturally aspirated engine?

For the record, I have run Valvoline, Havoline, and now Mobil 1 in my ‘17 CX5. It uses no oil and runs very smoothly.

Yes is the NA 2.5.I’ve heard extremes of up to 1 quart of oil burned in between changes, but others stating no oil burned.

 

[cvlw]

If you bought two I am hoping that you were pleased with their quality? I will be checking the stick often I heard they can drink a little oil.

2015 Mazda 5 and 2013 Mazda 6.
They have their quirks as any car will do. But, nothing major in the 100k. I am 6'5" and my driver is the Mazda 6. I actually have to move the seat forward a couple notches to sit comfortably. That has never happened before. My wife drives the 5... and she drives it hard.
One deviation we had was the transmission and power steering fluid changes. The manual says they are not necessary, but, we had both serviced on both cars starting at 60,000. The fluids were horrid. I will be doing my own occasional extracts/refills going forward.

Oh, and so far, there has not been any oil consumption with either. Like anything... your mileage may vary.

 

[buster]

Yes is the NA 2.5.I’ve heard extremes of up to 1 quart of oil burned in between changes, but others stating no oil burned.

I have heard the opposite. The 2.0 and 2.5L are known to not consume oil. More so than most other engines. I say that based on experience with 3 Mazdas since 2007. Our 07 3 with the 2.3L used no oil, 2014 3 with the 2.5L no oil loss and my 2015 2.0L no observable oil loss. It's very rare compared to other brands such as Honda.

 

[buster]

*I am a proponent of a more aggressive break-in, which I think can help in some instances among some engine families. I picked up my car with 30 miles. I used manual mode and gave it 70% full throttle in a higher gear up to 4k rpms a few times and let it engine brake. I gave it one full WOT around 60 miles or so. From there I just continued to drive it normally with occasional acceleration up to 4k rpms. In some engines this may make no difference. Babying an engine, even early on, is not advisable IMO.

Mazda is one of the few brands though that specifically states break-in isn't that important. I wouldn't go crazy on it though either.

 

[PimTac]

I also like the idea of winding up the engine during break in and afterwards. These SkyActiv motors like to be wound up. I get mine up to 3500-4000 rpm as well.
You will also see a big improvement around the 5-7000 mile mark as far as fuel economy goes. Currently I get around 27-28 mpg city and up to 35 on the highway. My current fuel economy is at 33.1.

 

[Sixxer]

2015 Mazda 5 and 2013 Mazda 6.
They have their quirks as any car will do. But, nothing major in the 100k. I am 6'5" and my driver is the Mazda 6. I actually have to move the seat forward a couple notches to sit comfortably. That has never happened before. My wife drives the 5... and she drives it hard.
One deviation we had was the transmission and power steering fluid changes. The manual says they are not necessary, but, we had both serviced on both cars starting at 60,000. The fluids were horrid. I will be doing my own occasional extracts/refills going forward.

Oh, and so far, there has not been any oil consumption with either. Like anything... your mileage may vary.

I too am against ‘lifetime fluid’ and would like to have mine changed in the future. The 2020 is a sealed transmission so to DIY I would need to pump it into the transmission somehow (Did that on my 08 Mustang) or pay Mazda to do it.

 

[vwmaniaman]

Have a Mazda 5 with the 2.5 motor. Bought it used with 32K on it. One of the best cars I've ever owned. Has 120K on it now and uses no oil between changes. I change it at 5K and use Wix or Fram TG filter.

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

I REALLY don't think they've changed their 6AT transaxle from this 2014 factory svce manual. Therefore it is not a sealed transmission... See where dipstick is in the graphic. There is one capscrew to remove to access it. Be VERY careful re your cleanliness!

 

[PimTac]

I REALLY don't think they've changed their 6AT transaxle from this 2014 factory svce manual. Therefore it is not a sealed transmission... See where dipstick is in the graphic. There is one capscrew to remove to access it. Be VERY careful re your cleanliness!

I believe that is correct. The dipstick is well hidden to boot.

 

[Randy_R]

I have used Zepro moly and Mobil 1 but now I have a case of Schaeffer for the next two changes. Always a Mazda filter, not the value filter.

 

[blufeb95]

I just looked up the filter, I'm a little sad to see they switched to metric threads and now spec the little lawn mower filter on it, the old Mazda 2.3/2.5L that was used in tons of Fords and Mazda's had the 3/4-16 oil filter mount and the standard filter was Fram 3614 sized which was a respectable filter for a 4 banger to start with but then you had the option to use the oversized Fram 8,16, or 3600 model filters.

 

[PimTac]

Nothing wrong with that filter though. It might be small but it gets the job done.

 

[haggler]

Skyactiv G 2.0 here in my miata. I use M1 0w-20 EP currently with a m1-108a filter. The filter and oil work fine, but I will be using M1 5w30 ESP for my next change given the weather here and the higher redline. This engine needs to be revved even higher for power than the 2.0 or 2.5 in the other mazdas. Given this, I am looking for more HTHS in the ESP line.