Building my home
- Thread starter Amkeer
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Is the felt on the outside of the wall instead of tyvek? I thought tyvek allowed water vapor to escape whereas tarpaper would trap the vapor, right? I've tried to do some research on the whole "house envelope" thing and it is very interesting reading and actually seems to me like all the puzzles haven't quite been solved. I see ads from GP Gypsum now where paper on drywall can feed mold so they have some new line of drywall. You put paper backed fiberglass insulation behind the drywall and a vapor barrier on the outside to allow moisture to escape w/o condensing inside the wall.
I have the opposite experience. we've not put felt on any building's sheathing in the last 15 years I've been working at my current job. the closest we came was using square edge gypsum sheething on a steel structured masonry building.
yes, yes and yes.
the "whole house envelope" has created alot of today's problems. houses used to "breathe" (i.e. be drafty) so you didn't get the mold or radon problems.
don't use the kraft paper, it's just not effective and too easily damaged. what you want is a vapor barrier (polyethylene sheeting), then your framing and UN backed insulation, then your sheathing then an air infiltration barrier (tyvek/typar, et. al.) having 2 vapor barriers (poly/kraft paper and rosin paper or felt) causes moisture to build up and tends to rot things from the inside out.
D,
No easy thing to figure out regarding moisture, vapor barriers. I have NEVER used a house wrap only felt in 25 years. Of the homes with the most problems and damage it was house wrap not felt. Don't really know the answer just try to stick with what has been done for years.
Most associations still recommend felt over house wrap. If you use a wrap they still want felt over it.
Drywall is hung pics later!!!!
No easy thing to figure out regarding moisture, vapor barriers. I have NEVER used a house wrap only felt in 25 years. Of the homes with the most problems and damage it was house wrap not felt. Don't really know the answer just try to stick with what has been done for years.
Most associations still recommend felt over house wrap. If you use a wrap they still want felt over it.
Drywall is hung pics later!!!!
Finishers are taping seams today they will be done late next week. We have had 2 straight days of rain so things will dry slower, expect delays.
I need to get some cheap locks so I can lock the place up!
I will be installing soffit materials this weekend. The wood for ceilings at front and back porch will be delivered Monday. That will be installed after I finish soffits. I guess I will just treat that wood for the porch ceilings with a clear sealer. Its a yellow pine. ahhhhh decisions!!!!
Its been 5 months since I started this home!!!!!
New pics are up!
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c186/amkeer/
I need to get some cheap locks so I can lock the place up!
I will be installing soffit materials this weekend. The wood for ceilings at front and back porch will be delivered Monday. That will be installed after I finish soffits. I guess I will just treat that wood for the porch ceilings with a clear sealer. Its a yellow pine. ahhhhh decisions!!!!
Its been 5 months since I started this home!!!!!
New pics are up!
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c186/amkeer/
Tell me more about the wood for the ceilings. Will it look like bead board when its up? I have exposed 2/6 or 2/8 beams on the front porch. I wanted this to look rustic but I'm getting so many wasp nests that I'm considering some sort of bead board look. Please post pics of the wood before you put it up.
Can't wait to see the finished house! I know we are enjoying our new place. It still isn't done. I haven't put any closet organizers in and I'm still finishing the family room myself.
Can't wait to see the finished house! I know we are enjoying our new place. It still isn't done. I haven't put any closet organizers in and I'm still finishing the family room myself.
http://weisshardwoods.com/images/Misc/wn819.gif
It would be that for the porch ceilings. 1x6x16..Its in a yellow pine. I will just roll on a sealer with the cigarette roller before I install it. Both sides of course.
Stuff never ends D!
It would be that for the porch ceilings. 1x6x16..Its in a yellow pine. I will just roll on a sealer with the cigarette roller before I install it. Both sides of course.
Stuff never ends D!
What did you use for the garage walls & ceiling? I'm worried about moisture and sheetrock with washing the cars in our garage.
That's one big window in picture 2473. I assume this had to be tempered glass? Were all your windows complete with tempered glass?
That's one big window in picture 2473. I assume this had to be tempered glass? Were all your windows complete with tempered glass?
Ben,
Regular rock in the garage. Cars are washed on the driveway. I will pull the vehicle in the garage to dry it, but that will be minimal amount of water.
The only tempered glass is in the bathrooms as far as the windows go. We wanted lots of windows in this home and thats what we got. We like to look out the windows.
So far I have seen while building:
Black widow spider
Pigmy rattlesnake
Huge brown spider
Scorpion
Turtle
Skink
Bats
Deer footprints
Fox squirrel
Being out with the nature you kind of get accustomed to all the things. There are bears out there, but I haven't seen one yet. I have seen a fox, but not near my home.
Regular rock in the garage. Cars are washed on the driveway. I will pull the vehicle in the garage to dry it, but that will be minimal amount of water.
The only tempered glass is in the bathrooms as far as the windows go. We wanted lots of windows in this home and thats what we got. We like to look out the windows.
So far I have seen while building:
Black widow spider
Pigmy rattlesnake
Huge brown spider
Scorpion
Turtle
Skink
Bats
Deer footprints
Fox squirrel
Being out with the nature you kind of get accustomed to all the things. There are bears out there, but I haven't seen one yet. I have seen a fox, but not near my home.
A or Brett: I'm finishing my family room. It was what would have been a garage. It is a small wing on the side of the house. I have a question regarding insulation. I'm going to use blown-in insulation in the attic. Do I need a vapor barrier on the bottom of the trusses between the drywall & trusses? How thick should it be?
Thanks for all the great information. I've framed out a pantry, closet, and stairs. I've also finished the wiring. I get my rough-in inspection tomorrow. Then I insulate and get the insulation inspection.
Thanks for all the great information. I've framed out a pantry, closet, and stairs. I've also finished the wiring. I get my rough-in inspection tomorrow. Then I insulate and get the insulation inspection.
what I would do is use 6mil poly sheeting directly on the trusses, then fur out the trusses w/ 1x3 pine strapping 16" OC (or if you're a masochist, spruce strapping or metal furring channel). then screw your sheetrock to the strapping.
The trusses run front to back of the house. Are you saying to run the 1x3 across (side-to-side)? For my education what does this provide? I know they didn't fur the ceiling in the main house and the trusses are 24" OC as well. In fact, I don't think there is any poly either and I have the blown-in stuff as well.
the furring strips run 90deg to the trusses. what the strapping does is keep the bottoms of the trusses from moving as they are loaded. this keeps the drywall screws from "popping" and becoming visible. you can get away with it somewhat with trusses, but you *will* get screw pops, esp in winter. strapping is a very good idea and really doesn't add much to the cost.
if you were sheetrocking the underside of a second floor, strapping is pretty much required, even more so on the underside of stairs.
I really hope you've got 5/8" sheetrock on your unstrapped 24"OC trusses. if you've got 1/2" rock, it's going to become a recurring headache for you (unless you don't mind screw pops and cracks)
if you were sheetrocking the underside of a second floor, strapping is pretty much required, even more so on the underside of stairs.
I really hope you've got 5/8" sheetrock on your unstrapped 24"OC trusses. if you've got 1/2" rock, it's going to become a recurring headache for you (unless you don't mind screw pops and cracks)
I'll have to pop my head into the attic and find out what they did but I doubt I have anything like you describe. I'd lay odds that I only have 1/2" rock on the top floor. I had about 4 pops in my last house while my brother must have had 2 dozen. I sure hope I don't get any/many. I hate them.
What does the strapping look like?
What does the strapping look like?
it'll either be 3/4"X2 1/2" pine boards or 5/8" X2 1/4" spruce boards nailed 90deg to the bottom chords of the trusses. I forgot to mention the strapping also supports the total weight of the insulation. sheetrock was never intended to be load bearing (in a residential app, I'm not talking about brownboard in this instance).
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D,
You could use blown in insulation. My home will be mostly blown in except where the cathedral is. The poly isn't really needed.
My home is coming together! The drywall is up and textured. The next phase is the stucco for exterior with a light texture. I will be adding stone to the corners of the front part of the home. It will come up 48 and go over 24 at random. The stucco people will do the stone work.
I am currently working on the kitchen cabinets. I sprayed the color coat and 2 coats of finish this weekend on the cases. I milled down the cherry for the doors and drawer fronts today. Tomorrow I will start cutting the rails and styles of doors.
Painter is scheduled to spray prime coat on walls and finish coat ceiling monday.
Ahhh, decisions decisions....
You could use blown in insulation. My home will be mostly blown in except where the cathedral is. The poly isn't really needed.
My home is coming together! The drywall is up and textured. The next phase is the stucco for exterior with a light texture. I will be adding stone to the corners of the front part of the home. It will come up 48 and go over 24 at random. The stucco people will do the stone work.
I am currently working on the kitchen cabinets. I sprayed the color coat and 2 coats of finish this weekend on the cases. I milled down the cherry for the doors and drawer fronts today. Tomorrow I will start cutting the rails and styles of doors.
Painter is scheduled to spray prime coat on walls and finish coat ceiling monday.
Ahhh, decisions decisions....
Great news A! What is the projected CO date? The pictures look great. I hope you are going to leave the beams exposed in the cathedral ceiling. I love that look.
I got my family room rough-in inspection today. I have to fire caulk the wiring but other than that it passed. He told me that I don't need the vapor barrier since the attic is vented and I'm using the blown-in insulation. Next is insulation then I can have the rock guys do their thing.
I got my family room rough-in inspection today. I have to fire caulk the wiring but other than that it passed. He told me that I don't need the vapor barrier since the attic is vented and I'm using the blown-in insulation. Next is insulation then I can have the rock guys do their thing.
Question on the insulation process. I bought these air vents to allow air from the soffits to get past the blown-in insulation. My question is this, when I place one of these between the rafters it seems there is plenty enough room between the roof deck & vent to allow the blown-in insulation to fall into the soffit area and plug up the soffit vent. How do I prevent this? I'm using this vent: http://www.adoproducts.com/duro.html
we use the same thing but they're called Prop-R vents. you staple them to the underside of the roof deck.
why in the blue **** do you need to firecaulk your wiring? are you penetrating a rated firewall?
why in the blue **** do you need to firecaulk your wiring? are you penetrating a rated firewall?
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