Building my home
- Thread starter Amkeer
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We have to use fire caulking in the holes drilled in the top plate to route wires. You squeeze some in the hole around the wires. Prevents smoke travel or something. Around here you don't have to put fire blocking in the walls but you have to use the caulk. I had a tube from doing my last basement so it didn't take me long.
About the vents. If I staple one to the roof deck there is pleny of clearance between the roof deck and wall top plate to allow the blown-in insulation to fall into the soffits. It is my understanding that this should be prevented for proper air circulation.
About the vents. If I staple one to the roof deck there is pleny of clearance between the roof deck and wall top plate to allow the blown-in insulation to fall into the soffits. It is my understanding that this should be prevented for proper air circulation.
What about interior doors? We will probably use something like Masonite molded 6-panel door 6'8". What brands should we consider & what should we stay away from? Any need for the sound insulated door? We had thought about using this for the bathrooms, a couple bedrooms, and the laundry room since it's on the occupied floor. Should we use the 1.375" or 1.75" I can't think of any advantages for a 1.75" door.
what code is used where you live? I've never seen that required in a non rated structure.
I know this is a bit late in the game, but you should have had wind stops nailed in between the trusses. you use 2x whatever material that leaves you with about 1 1/2" to 2" clearance from the roof deck. this allows you to slip the prop-r vent down into the eave and blocks the insulation from filling the soffit vents AND keeps any high winds from blowing the insulation all to [censored].
stuffing some batts under the prop-r vent also gets the job done, but not quite as effectively. the blow-in contractor we've used in the past would staple a diaper-lining like cloth to keep the insulation out of the eaves.
also, in the link you posted, on the same page (I think) the mf'r also sells a windstop to go under their vents. you might want to look into that.
I know this is a bit late in the game, but you should have had wind stops nailed in between the trusses. you use 2x whatever material that leaves you with about 1 1/2" to 2" clearance from the roof deck. this allows you to slip the prop-r vent down into the eave and blocks the insulation from filling the soffit vents AND keeps any high winds from blowing the insulation all to [censored].
stuffing some batts under the prop-r vent also gets the job done, but not quite as effectively. the blow-in contractor we've used in the past would staple a diaper-lining like cloth to keep the insulation out of the eaves.
also, in the link you posted, on the same page (I think) the mf'r also sells a windstop to go under their vents. you might want to look into that.
Brett: I don't know what code. Maybe next time I talk to the inspector I'll remember to ask. I saw those wind stops but Lowes only carried the vents. I'll probably try stuffing the insulation.
A: Thanks for the tip. I'll try stuffing the insulation tomorrow hopefully. I stapled the baffles up tonight. I used 1/4" staples I think. What happens if you use too long? I don't think my staple gun could drive through 1/2" OSB if I tried. I used a hand stapler not air driven. I'm assuming the std staples are OK and I don't need galvanized or anything like that.
Also, I have to put a fresh air vent near the vent-free propane stove in this county. When I did a similar thing in the neighboring county they didn't require it. My builder had to put one in for the wood burning fireplace as well. He stated that when the builders leave most people cram them full of insulation to keep from leaking air out of the house. I have enough space I don't think I'm in any danger by not having the fresh air intake.
A: Thanks for the tip. I'll try stuffing the insulation tomorrow hopefully. I stapled the baffles up tonight. I used 1/4" staples I think. What happens if you use too long? I don't think my staple gun could drive through 1/2" OSB if I tried. I used a hand stapler not air driven. I'm assuming the std staples are OK and I don't need galvanized or anything like that.
Also, I have to put a fresh air vent near the vent-free propane stove in this county. When I did a similar thing in the neighboring county they didn't require it. My builder had to put one in for the wood burning fireplace as well. He stated that when the builders leave most people cram them full of insulation to keep from leaking air out of the house. I have enough space I don't think I'm in any danger by not having the fresh air intake.
In regards to insulating the exterior walls, should I be using unfaced, kraft, or foil faced fiberglass batts? Do I need a vapor retarder in north Alabama?
I have considered MemBrain smart vapor retarder by CertainTeed with OwensCorning High Density pink fiberglass batts or with CertainTeed High Density yellow fiberglass batts. What say ye cause I don't know? I could use the CertainTeed DryRight fiberglass batts that already includes the MemBrain but it all must be friction fit. Is friction fitting insulation something to stay away from?
I have considered MemBrain smart vapor retarder by CertainTeed with OwensCorning High Density pink fiberglass batts or with CertainTeed High Density yellow fiberglass batts. What say ye cause I don't know? I could use the CertainTeed DryRight fiberglass batts that already includes the MemBrain but it all must be friction fit. Is friction fitting insulation something to stay away from?
Ben,
I would call Certainteed and find out from them. If you are using a insulation contractor pass your ideas on to them and see what the response is. I would avoid friction fit since the insulation will want to settle over time.
I am using a insulation contractor and they used the typical faced on exterior walls.
I would call Certainteed and find out from them. If you are using a insulation contractor pass your ideas on to them and see what the response is. I would avoid friction fit since the insulation will want to settle over time.
I am using a insulation contractor and they used the typical faced on exterior walls.
Ben, I've seen it done 2 different ways around here. One is the typical paper backed stapled to the face of the studs and the other was unfaced then the wall was covered with a plastic sheet stapled to the face of the studs. Seems the plastic might seal the room better but I have no education in this area. I can say this, my dad is retired and volunteers with Habitat for Humanity. They are going to start building energystar rated homes and to do this they are required, when using paper faced insulation, to stretch it tight across the studs and staple all the way down. My insulation contractor stuffed the insulation between the studs and didn't open the paper flap and staple it. Apparently when you pull it tight it decreases the amount of air space between the back of the drywall and the paper. If I ever build again I plan to do more research in this area.
I have all but one of my interior prehungs in. The painter will spray primer Tuesday. The stucco people have installed lath Friday. Everything is coming along pretty quick, but I am running out of gas fast!!!!
My millwork supplier called me Friday and notified me that my baseboards and casings are ready for pickup. I will need to pick that up and shoot primer on it next week.
I will update some pictures later.....
My millwork supplier called me Friday and notified me that my baseboards and casings are ready for pickup. I will need to pick that up and shoot primer on it next week.
I will update some pictures later.....
Did you use the 366 trim for the doors or something else?
The interior prehungs are getting a 3.25x.75 solid hardwood (poplar)casing. The trim will all be painted.
Sometimes it feels as though things are going in slow motion, but they are actually going by fast. My body is not recovering from the abuse it suffered at the hands of the roof framing on this home. To think I actually thought about doing this in my late 40's early 50's! At 39 its a killer! You know what? I would do it again...
Sometimes it feels as though things are going in slow motion, but they are actually going by fast. My body is not recovering from the abuse it suffered at the hands of the roof framing on this home. To think I actually thought about doing this in my late 40's early 50's! At 39 its a killer! You know what? I would do it again...
Pics are up of the millwork process for the cabinetry in the kitchen. The start of course. I have added details to the newer pictures and will try to update that on older photos also.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c186/amkeer/
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c186/amkeer/
Man, I remember working at Powell Structural Systems as a wood truss design engineer. That was a pretty fun job.
A: It is funny you mention being worn out. I've been working hard on my house as well and I'm always beat. Funny thing is I'm 39 too. I have a desk job so I'm not in the shape I should be but I'm not a slouch either. The pics of the millwork really shows how much wood goes into a house. I have a fair amount of cabinetry and never really thought about how much wood it takes. I would also do it again and my wife and I are thinking in 2-3 years about doing it one more time. If the real estate market rebounds by then we should be in pretty good shape in our house and might be able to build a comparable home with less mortgage.
Things are getting done!!!! The painters sprayed the primer on the interior walls and finish coated ceiling Tuesday. It took about 35 gallons of paint.
I picked up the baseboard and casing Wednesday, about 1500 feet of it. It was sanded yesterday and I shot it with a lacquer primer today. Went through about 4 gallons of primer. It took about 6 hours to spray the 1500 feet.
I started assembling the cabinets for the kitchen. Just the cases will be set in the kitchen and bathrooms so that the granite people can template for the tops.
The power company installed the underground power. The cable company also installed their piping to the home.
Images up!
I picked up the baseboard and casing Wednesday, about 1500 feet of it. It was sanded yesterday and I shot it with a lacquer primer today. Went through about 4 gallons of primer. It took about 6 hours to spray the 1500 feet.
I started assembling the cabinets for the kitchen. Just the cases will be set in the kitchen and bathrooms so that the granite people can template for the tops.
The power company installed the underground power. The cable company also installed their piping to the home.
Images up!
Looking good! Are you doing granite throughout the kitchen and baths? We just did a kitchen island (3'x7') and used butcher block for everything else. Sealed it with some sort of paste called Good Stuff. Smells like mineral oil.
When is the estimated move-in date?
When is the estimated move-in date?
D, thanks!
We are using granite tops in baths and kitchen. I have a bar top in kitchen that will be either cherry or maple butcher block. We are sccheduled to complete sometime in November.
I don't know what is used to seal the granite.
How are things going with the new home D?
We are using granite tops in baths and kitchen. I have a bar top in kitchen that will be either cherry or maple butcher block. We are sccheduled to complete sometime in November.
I don't know what is used to seal the granite.
How are things going with the new home D?
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